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Discussion Starter #1
So im gonna finally try a turbo build. I've been wanting to do one for years. I plan on boosting my ef hatch. It currently has a d15b2/ z6 mini me in it. I have a spare z6 block that i spun a bearing in to build.

Plans for the block so far are as followed.

d16z6 block
Polished crank
Ls rods
75.5mm Vitaras
ported oil pump
Arp rod and head bolts

As for the head, i dont know yet. It'll stay stock, but I have a few laying around to choose from. d16z6, d16y7,sohc zc non vtec. I would like a little input in this area. I've heard non vtec's are better for boost?

Turbo kit-

God Speed cast iron manifold
T25/T28 turbo with 8 psi internal waste gate
2.5" downpipe
2.5" FMIC
Nxs Motorsports boost controller
Apexi turbo timer
Hks Bov

Now to tune i figured i'de go with crome pro. I've ordered a few chipping kits with the data log headers etc. I have 0% knowledge for tuning and chipping. So this should be a good expierance. To help moniter whats goin on i've ordered the following.

Innovate A/F DB Gauge w/ LC-1 wideband o2
Exhaust Temp. Gauge
Digital Boost Gauge
Digital Fuel pressure Gauge
Digital Oil Pressure Gauge

As for the fuel system i've ordered a Walbro 255 fuel pump. I havent decided on injectors yet. any ideal?

But if you see anything i've missed let me know.
 

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....non vtec's are better for boost?

Not really that it is better for boost but that it is easier to tune.
Injectors wise are mostly depend upon hp level. But most people will say go big or go home so get some big ones. 440/450 RC or DSM blue tops will work just fine for around 250hp.

Do some reading before you try to tune the car you wouldnt want anything to happen.
Other then that it seems like your going the right way.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I've been playing with crome at home and am starting to figure it out some what. I have a N/a zc with about 11:1 comp that im going to start tuning first. The 250 hp range is what im hoping for so i think i will look for some Dsm's.

Well if non vtec are easier to tune with i think im gonna use my y7 head. I had started porting it anyways so this will be a great incentive to finish it up.
 

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DONT TUNE the 11:1 that compression is a lil to high for beging. Higher cinpression needs a different type of timing map. Which u can only truly dail in on the dyno.

Adding boost to a stock motor (9.1-9.9:1 comp) and tuning it is ok, because u already have a map to go off of. Also u really only remove timing n boost and add more fuel.

With high comp builds u gave to do alot of timing adjustment so they dont blow up. Its just not
something to start on for first timer.

Also I dont like zc I believe they have an oil problem and run dry because oil doesnt make it back to the pan fast enough.
 

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get dif rods. those work fine but a set of fjt's would be better as they will put the piston back in the right place on a z6 block.and in the end cost about the same as having your ls rods modified to fit. use that block and crank because the z6 has one of the best oiling systems. also port your oil pump to maximize flow. Z6 head is a great head to use as it will flow up to 400hp before major porting is needed. also hogging out the ports is BAD! A simple clean up of the runners and the bowls is all you need. nothing crazy like gasket matching. I've heard bad things about going too big on the ports. any major porting should also accompany a bigger cam to take advantage of the bigger ports.GL
 

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I would suggest, reading up on pgmfi.org or enrolling in a tuning class like the EFI101. It will help you understand how some of these programs work, and what is involved with tuning, and learning how to make timing adjustments.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have been reading up on pgmfi.org. I went ahead and ordered a set of Scat H beam rods. I couldnt find the bushings for the ls rods. I called crower and had no luck.

But i had a couple of boxs waiting for me when i got home yesterday.

ls1-wideband



Walbro 225

 

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.....
But i had a couple of boxs waiting for me when i got home yesterday.

ls1-wideband


......
wish i had that sitting at my door. I plan on ordering mines around income tax along with my aem fic.
but good start on your build.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
And i got a few more things in yesterday.

The Mootes.Net Burn 2- chip burner



10 Chips, 5 socket kits, and 5 datalog headers.



Also got my Intercooler kit. Figured i'de go for the sleeper black one, lol.



So I got bored last night and tried my hand at chipping. Took a virgin obd0 Pr4 and pullled the old chip out. pretty easy after i figure out how to use the desolder wick. Solderd the new socket in.





It only took me about 30-60 mins to pull the chip and intstall the socket. Thinking ima find a different solder i dont like the flux in this shit.
 

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Look at your solder joints. Now look at the solder joints on EVERY other thing that you didn't touch. Compare.

You were not heating the work, you were heating the solder. ALL of those joints are "cold" and WILL fail.

Desloder and start over.
 

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not bad for a first attempt at soldering, what kind of iron are you using? I use a 20/130watt iron made by hakko bought it at fry's electronics paid about $30 for it. The best part about it is you plug it in hold the button down for a few seconds and you're ready to solder, unlike a regular 20watt that you have to wait like 15mins before it's hot enough.
 

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Not a bad build, and agreed on the non-vtec being easier to tune. As for the walbro, they are pretty hit or miss. We've always used factory da integra pumps as they are a high volume pump shared with the nsx. Believe they are 275lph.
We also have one of the moates chip burners here at the shop, it functions pretty well.
You should invest in a soldering station, as you can heat the solder up to the optimum temperature for soldering ecus. Not bad for your first rodeo, but I would not reccomend running that ecu, untill desoldered and fixed. Get you some rosin solder, I use a thin .75mm to solder ecus and other on board electronics.
Good luck on the build and be weary on your tuning. Small increments when first tuning. Ive seen too many people blow their motors sky high from making adjustments and leaning out.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Update:

So i went out and picked up a better soldering iron. Got a nice 40 watt one from radio shack for a fraction of the cost that i got my 15 watt one for. I went ahead and practiced some more on my test ecu and got damn good. i'v since chipped about 3 more p28's i had around and they all tested great with my P08 Base map. No CEL's or any thing.

I'm having a hell of a time trying to datalog tho. I've tried ever driver i can find x2 times and it still wont connect to the damn ecu. I've tried different ports, Baud speeds etc. nothing seems to work. I'm thinking it's because i have window's 7. I've followed the tutorial on Xenocron and had no luck either.

But anyways i'v gotten about 90% of my parts.



I figured hell with the ls rods and decided to go with some Scat H-Beams. Here's a teaser with the 75.5mm YCP Vitara's.



So Little change on my game plan. Decided to go with my Jdm D15b Vtec block instead of the z6. Reason being because i went with the Scat Rods and not custom length ones. But running the D15b block with a z6 head will give me a little better Compression Ratio compared to 7.5:1 or so with the z6.

Stay tuned for updates on the build.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
update

So finally got my manifold in. Machd up the turbo, had to clock it abit to get everything lined up right. But after clocking it my internal wastegate needs to be mounted in a new position. Easy fix after i modify the current bracket.



Also started building the block. Got my oil pump ported out. Forgot to take pics but will try and get some tomorrow.
 
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