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Discussion Starter #1
The end goal is a 10 second 1/4 mile with some street friendly parts like front and rear anti roll bars, brakes that are a bit more canyon carving friendly, AC, cruise control and power steering to name a few.

I'm not building this to any particular class rules just wanting to make it what I've always wanted.

This is going to take a while, but it will get there.

I'm adding power steering to my car, in an effort to cut a bit of the weight penalty I'm doing what I can to reduce part weight, starting with the power steering pump mounting bracket.

1st picture is a stock power steering pump mounting bracket 4lb. 6oz.

2nd picture is the same bracket partially completed 4lb. 4.3oz.

So far it's just hand files and a dremel as far as tools used goes.

Once I've managed to cut through all the casting texture and mold lines I'll get to sanding it down to as perfect as I can get it.
 

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I think power steering and other parasitic loss will be worse than trying to recoup the disadvantage through lowering weight, especially with the fact that you are also keeping all other accessories. If I remember right, that thing robs like 2-4 HP when the engine is up in the RPMs due to the normal pumping forces. Alternator eats like 5-6 HP, and AC when on can rob 15-20. That's 30 HP in a worst case scenario with all of those loads on. You would almost need to gut the car fully to get all of that back through power to weight alone.

Electronic Power Steering as EFB055 said might be a good way to circumvent the weight penalty issues without having the additional parasitic loss.

I think if you did what you did to the PS bracket to the entire car, you might shave 20 pounds, but you will end up with arthritis when all is said and done haha. That's a lot of work!

OR, you could just build a powerful D with good parts and a large turbo, a beefed up transmission and axles, good drag slicks and a good tune with 2 step and anti lag, and bam 10's with all the accessories, weight and loads still there. It will take a lot of money, and a lot of trial and error, but it's not impossible. More boost!!!!
 

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The end goal is a 10 second 1/4 mile with some street friendly parts like front and rear anti roll bars, brakes that are a bit more canyon carving friendly, AC, cruise control and power steering to name a few.

I'm not building this to any particular class rules just wanting to make it what I've always wanted.

This is going to take a while, but it will get there.

I'm adding power steering to my car, in an effort to cut a bit of the weight penalty I'm doing what I can to reduce part weight, starting with the power steering pump mounting bracket.

1st picture is a stock power steering pump mounting bracket 4lb. 6oz.

2nd picture is the same bracket partially completed 4lb. 4.3oz.

So far it's just hand files and a dremel as far as tools used goes.

Once I've managed to cut through all the casting texture and mold lines I'll get to sanding it down to as perfect as I can get it.

Could have just went to the bathroom and shaved more weight
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I dunno if you'll be able shave enough off that bracket to get a D series into the 10's.

Have you considered using EPS, frees up space for the turbo you'll need and doesn't cause parasitic losses.
I doubt the bracket will get me in the 10s too, i enjoy the process of smoothing metal parts and the look of them once finished, the little bit of weight loss across all of the parts I plan to lighten might make up for the W2A intercooler weight, who knows? I'm not terribly concerned.

I'm more concerned about heat exchanger placement for the W2A intercooler than anything else at the moment.

No I have not, maybe down the road but it's not in my current plan.



I think power steering and other parasitic loss will be worse than trying to recoup the disadvantage through lowering weight, especially with the fact that you are also keeping all other accessories. If I remember right, that thing robs like 2-4 HP when the engine is up in the RPMs due to the normal pumping forces. Alternator eats like 5-6 HP, and AC when on can rob 15-20. That's 30 HP in a worst case scenario with all of those loads on. You would almost need to gut the car fully to get all of that back through power to weight alone.

Electronic Power Steering as EFB055 said might be a good way to circumvent the weight penalty issues without having the additional parasitic loss.

I think if you did what you did to the PS bracket to the entire car, you might shave 20 pounds, but you will end up with arthritis when all is said and done haha. That's a lot of work!

OR, you could just build a powerful D with good parts and a large turbo, a beefed up transmission and axles, good drag slicks and a good tune with 2 step and anti lag, and bam 10's with all the accessories, weight and loads still there. It will take a lot of money, and a lot of trial and error, but it's not impossible. More boost!!!!
4 piston CNC d16y8 head, sleeved block, vitara long rods, Arias custom pistons to deal with the compression height issue the rods create, Garrett 25-660, 304 schedule 10 4-2-1 custom manifold, W2A intercooler, and I plan to see if using the roller rockers with appropriate cam lobes transplanted onto the Y8 cam shaft is possible, AEM EMS, random carbon fiber bits like hood, doors, hatch, and some major aero mods, etc.

I suspect the build will get me into the power range I need to be in, I'll just need to do my part.

The end goal is a 10 second 1/4 mile with some street friendly parts like front and rear anti roll bars, brakes that are a bit more canyon carving friendly, AC, cruise control and power steering to name a few.

I'm not building this to any particular class rules just wanting to make it what I've always wanted.

This is going to take a while, but it will get there.

I'm adding power steering to my car, in an effort to cut a bit of the weight penalty I'm doing what I can to reduce part weight, starting with the power steering pump mounting bracket.

1st picture is a stock power steering pump mounting bracket 4lb. 6oz.

2nd picture is the same bracket partially completed 4lb. 4.3oz.

So far it's just hand files and a dremel as far as tools used goes.

Once I've managed to cut through all the casting texture and mold lines I'll get to sanding it down to as perfect as I can get it.

Could have just went to the bathroom and shaved more weight
Absolutely LOL (I was wondering how long it would take for this exact reply), it's more of a I want to do this than a racing sort of thing. My desire to achieve 10s is purely a fun thing.

I'm a disabled vet so, cruise control is more of a help to me than any worry about weight, power steering is really kind of a nice thing to have so I'll deal with the weight and be happy, as for AC...I live and like to drive where it's pretty damn hot so I am going to keep that for sure.
 

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4 piston CNC d16y8 head, sleeved block, vitara long rods, Arias custom pistons to deal with the compression height issue the rods create, Garrett 25-660, 304 schedule 10 4-2-1 custom manifold, W2A intercooler, and I plan to see if using the roller rockers with appropriate cam lobes transplanted onto the Y8 cam shaft is possible, AEM EMS, random carbon fiber bits like hood, doors, hatch, and some major aero mods, etc.

I suspect the build will get me into the power range I need to be in, I'll just need to do my part.
Holy money batman! I apologize, you are on the right track. I felt like I lost money just reading that spec list...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Holy money batman! I apologize, you are on the right track. I felt like I lost money just reading that spec list...
Yeah I know, it's freaking expensive to try and do things right.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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how custom are the pistons? I have some cp pistons that I thought I could use with fjt rods (extended length vitara rods) but it would put the pistons 1-2mm out of the bore so I got rid of the rods for something else.


from my piston spec sheet
comp height 1.154
dish -.145
 

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Discussion Starter #10
that's a butt load of sanding..

sweet parts list! makes my teef hurt..
Yes it is, I try to file or use the dremel to remove the majority of the casting texture and mold lines away first, then use something along the lines of 80 grit to start leveling out the surface and find where I need to do a bit more work. From there it's block sanding with a variety of grits till I'm a happy camper.

how custom are the pistons? I have some cp pistons that I thought I could use with fjt rods (extended length vitara rods) but it would put the pistons 1-2mm out of the bore so I got rid of the rods for something else.


from my piston spec sheet
comp height 1.154
dish -.145
78mm bore
-7cc (total) valve pockets
Compression height 1.118" (28.4mm)

Pretty much puts me at zero deck with near perfect quench distance from the heads quench pads.

Displacement is 1720cc

Compression is 11:1
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Slow progress but I'm nearly done getting through the casting texture and a few pretty deep casting flaws.

At the moment I have managed to remove a bit over a quarter pound of metal so far; I'm hoping to get closer to half a pound off of this bracket.

Anyone know of an aluminium pulley that is lighter than the steel one on the power steering pump? I'm not worried about the underdrive types as I see this engine seeing more high rpms than low.

Edit:

Nearly every casting flaw that remains is just deep enough to require the particular surface it is on to be hit with the file and/or dremel then sanded to find any smaller flaws.

I'm neary 100% certain at this point that I'll be able to get this part down to 3lbs.

I believe I will be running 92-95 spec aluminium pulleys on the power steering pump and alternator.

I've had zero luck finding a crank damper I'd trust on a 600hp build that also has power steering and AC drive pulleys.

I fired off an email to fluidampr to see if I'm just not looking in the right place. With any luck it won't be a custom job.
 

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