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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My d16z6 NA build *Pictures*

So I drive a 91 std civic hatch std I got me a d16z6 to put in it. I have a list of stuff that I have and that I will be buying in the near future.

P29 pistons 40 over
New rod and main berings(already have)
ARP rod bolts(already have)
ARP head studs
Kaiten karui flywheel 9.68 pounds
crank, pistons, rods, flywheel balancing
skunk2 intake manifold
rev ss valves(already have)
crower springs and retainers(already have)
crower stage 2 cam
skunk2 adjustable cam gear(already have)
cleaned and balanced stock injectors
B&M fpr(already have)
Megan racing header(already have)
thermal r&d catback(already have)
obx high flow cat(really a straight pipe already have)
obd0 to obd1 harness for dpfi car(already have)
190lp fuel pump
p28 with hondata s100(already have)

What do you guys think? should I get the head milled? anything else you guys would recommend?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Why not go turbo? Only get the head milled if it needs it. (Or atleast thats what I would do)
I have always had turbo eclipses 3 of them actually and just wanted to have a all motor project for a change I have been reading alot and if I can get this car in the low 14's high 13's all motor that would be nice especially with a dseries.;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
what header do you guys recomend? is the crower stage three pretty streetable? and if I have to get the head milled a little am I gonna even be able to run the stage 3 cam without having the valves slap the pistons? What kinda rpms am I gonna be able to take the stock rods before they snap? This is not a full out race car so im gonna have to drive it sometimes if not I would sleeve the block and run custom pistons.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
the reason I didn;t mention the stage 3 is no headwork. If you do headwork, yes consider the 3. I wish I went straight to it instead of the 2, but I'll fix that soon enough (even though the 2 is very good)
You'll probably have to clay the motor with the 3 and those pistons. I'm not sure if a stg 3 would clear my pm6's.
I have to tell you though, .040 is one of the best things I did. (unshrouds those vtec valves, and makes good tq)
A blockgaurd doesn't seem very necessary either. ARP hardware should be enough. I dont have experience, but rods with ARP hardware is probably good for 8000, maybe 8500. That what I will attempt when i have the cam for it along with itb's and tuning.
Header choice depends on budget. SMSP or Bisimoto are worth it if you can afford them, but DC 4-1 will make the most amount of power in the cheaper range. (its what Im running right now)
thanx for all the good info:TU:
and on the why hondata, Lets say my friend (in a Marlon Brando Godfather voice) made me an offer I could not refuse.
Oh and since I drive an ef hatch I dont think I am gonna be able to fit a 4-1 header with my stock crossmember.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
just got pulled over for my exhaust:( what do guys think about the hks sport for my allmotor setup http://www.optionsauto.com/prodinfo.asp?number=HKS-LES-H05 I also called a couple shops today for my headwork one said they would charge me $500 just for cleaning the head, valve job, and assembly. The other place told me they would do a basic port and polish, valve job, new valve stem seals, and that they could port match the openings on the runners to my skunk 2 im and whatever header I bring them for $600.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
tomorrow I will go and get a 1/2 breaker bar and a 12point 17mm impact socket if this does not work im gonna have to go with the impact gun. I decided on going ahead and getting the innovative crossmember http://www.passwordjdm.com/product....History=cat&strKeywords=&SearchFor=&PT_ID=468 so that way I can fit any header I want insted of settling for a 4-2-1 for a ef. Just need that tax money so I can get all this started. I also changed my setup a little insted of going with the 310 injectors I will send my stock ones to rc for cleaning and balancing, I am gonna still get the fuel pump but I will just get the 190lp insted of the 255, and I will save my money on the block guard and get the obx lsd. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Got some stuff today. Happy Presidents day for me!!!

ACL main, and rod bearings and thrust washer
arp rod bolts
cometic head gasket 76mm .030 thickness



Should be getting my p29 pistons .040 over soon ordered them on friday then its out to the machine shop. Checked what my compression would be on the zeal came out to be 12.28:1
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Also states he will rework port bowls and blend into the valve seats and will blend and smooth the combustion chambers. Most of the gains in flow in a port job come from the seats, bowl work, and chamber work around the valves. So this infact is a complete port job for the most part.

I have personaly never had any work performed by Larry but I have seen quite a few of his engines run and some of his work. He is def a competent builder and seems to be detail orientated. I think you can rest assured the work will be up to standard. I'm sure there are members on here who do have experience with Larry.

So for the money... That basic package is a very good value. From a well known Honda engine builder.
I will look in to them thanks:TU: calling them right now.
 
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