Honda D Series Forum banner
Cancel

My d16z6 NA build

7373 Views 25 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  InFaMousHatch17, 
I
My d16z6 NA build *Pictures*

So I drive a 91 std civic hatch std I got me a d16z6 to put in it. I have a list of stuff that I have and that I will be buying in the near future.

P29 pistons 40 over
New rod and main berings(already have)
ARP rod bolts(already have)
ARP head studs
Kaiten karui flywheel 9.68 pounds
crank, pistons, rods, flywheel balancing
skunk2 intake manifold
rev ss valves(already have)
crower springs and retainers(already have)
crower stage 2 cam
skunk2 adjustable cam gear(already have)
cleaned and balanced stock injectors
B&M fpr(already have)
Megan racing header(already have)
thermal r&d catback(already have)
obx high flow cat(really a straight pipe already have)
obd0 to obd1 harness for dpfi car(already have)
190lp fuel pump
p28 with hondata s100(already have)

What do you guys think? should I get the head milled? anything else you guys would recommend?
See less See more
Reply
Save
Like
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
K
Why not go turbo? Only get the head milled if it needs it. (Or atleast thats what I would do)
Reply
Save
Like
I
kimble0408 said:
Why not go turbo? Only get the head milled if it needs it. (Or atleast thats what I would do)
Click to expand...
I have always had turbo eclipses 3 of them actually and just wanted to have a all motor project for a change I have been reading alot and if I can get this car in the low 14's high 13's all motor that would be nice especially with a dseries.;)
Reply
Save
Like
Eyal 951
the valves are useless if you dont do headwork. My build is fairly simular, and my hp/tq pretty much hit a brick wall in the upper rpm because my ports are stock.
precision 350cc injectors -not needed, im running stock with a slightly more aggressive build.
BDL fuel rail - same as above
B&M fpr(already have) - i'm running stock, doesn't hurt to have though.
255hp fuel pump - waste of money for this kind of build.
p28 with hondata s200 - I'm fine with S100

Don't get me wrong. This isn't criticism, just trying to save you money on parts that won't do anything for you.

I would definitely look into a better header though.
Reply
Save
Like
s_18
Agree with Eyal here... Might also want to consider the Crower stage 3 cam.
Also, the Hondata S300 system seems better in my eyes... I would look into it.

The block guard is not needed imo. And a better header would be a wise choice.
Reply
Save
Like
I
what header do you guys recomend? is the crower stage three pretty streetable? and if I have to get the head milled a little am I gonna even be able to run the stage 3 cam without having the valves slap the pistons? What kinda rpms am I gonna be able to take the stock rods before they snap? This is not a full out race car so im gonna have to drive it sometimes if not I would sleeve the block and run custom pistons.
Reply
Save
Like
eg4
why hondata?
Reply
Save
Like
Eyal 951
the reason I didn;t mention the stage 3 is no headwork. If you do headwork, yes consider the 3. I wish I went straight to it instead of the 2, but I'll fix that soon enough (even though the 2 is very good)
You'll probably have to clay the motor with the 3 and those pistons. I'm not sure if a stg 3 would clear my pm6's.
I have to tell you though, .040 is one of the best things I did. (unshrouds those vtec valves, and makes good tq)
A blockgaurd doesn't seem very necessary either. ARP hardware should be enough. I dont have experience, but rods with ARP hardware is probably good for 8000, maybe 8500. That what I will attempt when i have the cam for it along with itb's and tuning.
Header choice depends on budget. SMSP or Bisimoto are worth it if you can afford them, but DC 4-1 will make the most amount of power in the cheaper range. (its what Im running right now)
See less See more
Reply
Save
Like
I
Eyal 951 said:
the reason I didn;t mention the stage 3 is no headwork. If you do headwork, yes consider the 3. I wish I went straight to it instead of the 2, but I'll fix that soon enough (even though the 2 is very good)
You'll probably have to clay the motor with the 3 and those pistons. I'm not sure if a stg 3 would clear my pm6's.
I have to tell you though, .040 is one of the best things I did. (unshrouds those vtec valves, and makes good tq)
A blockgaurd doesn't seem very necessary either. ARP hardware should be enough. I dont have experience, but rods with ARP hardware is probably good for 8000, maybe 8500. That what I will attempt when i have the cam for it along with itb's and tuning.
Header choice depends on budget. SMSP or Bisimoto are worth it if you can afford them, but DC 4-1 will make the most amount of power in the cheaper range. (its what Im running right now)
Click to expand...
thanx for all the good info:TU:
and on the why hondata, Lets say my friend (in a Marlon Brando Godfather voice) made me an offer I could not refuse.
Oh and since I drive an ef hatch I dont think I am gonna be able to fit a 4-1 header with my stock crossmember.
Reply
Save
Like
I
just got pulled over for my exhaust:( what do guys think about the hks sport for my allmotor setup http://www.optionsauto.com/prodinfo.asp?number=HKS-LES-H05 I also called a couple shops today for my headwork one said they would charge me $500 just for cleaning the head, valve job, and assembly. The other place told me they would do a basic port and polish, valve job, new valve stem seals, and that they could port match the openings on the runners to my skunk 2 im and whatever header I bring them for $600.
Reply
Save
Like
Eyal 951
600 is a good price for that, as long as you trust the place, and they know what their doing.
Reply
Save
Like
I
Block
Has been sitting for a while


wont be using this anymore

some of the stuff that I have thats not in storage


I cant get these off I have broke 3 craftsman 17mm sockets

this has helped alot
See less See more
7
Reply
Save
Like
I
jdm tyte yoo

for when its fast enough

for my next build

random pic of my dogs, Achilles is the beagle on the left and Ajax to the right is suppose to be a border collie australian sheperd mix
See less See more
4
Reply
Save
Like
I
does anyone have any suggestions on how to get the flywheel bolts off?
Reply
Save
Like
H
try a impact gun or breaker bar. i had the same problem getting mine off and i had to use a breaker bar.

good luck
Reply
Save
Like
s_18
Impact gun rules! :TU:
Reply
Save
Like
I
tomorrow I will go and get a 1/2 breaker bar and a 12point 17mm impact socket if this does not work im gonna have to go with the impact gun. I decided on going ahead and getting the innovative crossmember http://www.passwordjdm.com/product....History=cat&strKeywords=&SearchFor=&PT_ID=468 so that way I can fit any header I want insted of settling for a 4-2-1 for a ef. Just need that tax money so I can get all this started. I also changed my setup a little insted of going with the 310 injectors I will send my stock ones to rc for cleaning and balancing, I am gonna still get the fuel pump but I will just get the 190lp insted of the 255, and I will save my money on the block guard and get the obx lsd. :)
Reply
Save
Like
The_Acid_Beaver
Breaker-bar with a 6' long cheater bar. Leverage almost always beats out impact tools. And, they break things faster.
Reply
Save
Like
I
one of the best things I have ever bought

oh no!! had to break out the guns!!


satisfaction!!

now this thing is owning me

the car that will be getting the engine in wintermode with the hub caps!! hottness!!!
See less See more
6
Reply
Save
Like
B
with that build and if your using an si tranny 13's shouldnt be a problem i was doin 14.1-14.2 with a mild n/a z6 build in my crx. good luck
Reply
Save
Like
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Honda D Series Forum
A forum community dedicated to the Honda D Series engine owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, builds, reviews, turbos, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Showcase Forced Induction Engine Building General Tech For Sale
Top