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My d16y8 turbo build

130887 Views 286 Replies 55 Participants Last post by  TheAssassin
So after an incredibly long time I've finally turbocharged my 1997 Civic. After dabbling in the nitrous world over the summer, I decided to turbocharge my car with almost 160k miles on it. I planned my list of parts I would need and started purchasing them in the order that I'd be able to use them. I first got my hondata s300 and vac/boost, oil pressure, and wideband gauges so that I could at least use them before putting the whole turbo setup on. I ordered the street kit from Go-Autoworks with the Garrett T3 60 .48 a/r, along with the walbro 255 pump and 450cc injectors (which were out of stock, so Greg gave me 650cc's instead, no additional charge, just shows how dedicated Greg is to satisfying customers!) I received the kit November 18th. The next morning, driving in to work at 3:30 am I crashed my car. I ran over a tree. Yes, there was a tree across the road, a good foot and half in diameter. It looked like a relatively small branch from far away, but it wasn't. I totally destroyed the front end of my car and set off both airbags. I had it towed home (1 mile away, $125) and drove my wife's nissan to work. I bought a junky 1997 white civic to use for parts. Over the next 2 and a half months I replaced (used parts came from the white civic):

rad support (new)
oil pan (new)
pass. side lower control arm (used)
pass. side strut (new)
pass. side cv axle (new)
both knuckles (used)
entire subframe (crossmember? I've heard it called both) (used)
both fenders (used)
bumper (used)
bumper support (used)
airbags and srs unit (used)
both headlights (used cheap hid ones from the white civic)
rims and tires (used, tree bent one of my other rims)
Anyway, this is what my car looks like now, I wish I took a picture of it when it was crashed. It's on the dyno (duh)

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Bumper Hood

Right now it's on the stock suspension, with the front passenger side having the brand new strut, which makes the car sit about 2 inches higher on that corner. I'm going full coilovers soon so I didn't want to buy four struts if I didn't have to do so.

While doing all these replacements, I was also installing my turbo system:
Engine Vehicle Auto part Car Fuel line

I ended up not needing the boost control solenoid, that's why it's not hooked up. And my apologies for the incredibly dirty engine bay.
Onward, I finally had my car tuned yesterday. I would say the shops name but I don't know if I should because they wouldn't like me saying how my car fell off the dyno, or more like it rolled off the dyno. My car was so awesome that it magically melted one of the straps and popped off the rollers and almost hit the guy painting the wall next to us. Looking back, it's kind of cool having a car fall off a dyno at 70mph and not destroy anything, the guys were good sports about it and I'm very happy no one was hurt. But that's the reason I wont disclose the shops name, they might not like the bad publicity but I will say that they are very good at what they do.

Here's a video of the last run on the dyno. My car made 211 whp and 167 wtq on 7lbs of boost, 2.5" exhaust, no catalytic converter.

Dyno Tuning - YouTube

I hope my first post works!
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I think I'm just gonna bite the bullet and get it done sometime next week...if the wife permits it lol

I'm running 350/350. It handles very well and is not uncomfortable on the highway at all.
Mini Morimoto HIDs!

I was tired of the horribly dim ebay "projector" headlights that came with my parts car, so I got myself a Mini Morimoto HID projector retrofit system.

I had 4 sets of headlights to use as donors for parts. I took the covers from the ebay ones (they were the most clear), a black shroud from my original set (I think that's what they're called, the part that is black instead of the stock crome) a chrome shroud (which I painted black) and the base from another stock set. I ended up not using the 4th set.

Now on to pictures!

Headlamp Automotive lighting Light Auto part Vehicle

Headlamp Automotive lighting Light Auto part Vehicle

Alloy wheel Wheel Auto part Rim Spoke

Automotive lighting Headlamp Light Vehicle Car

The black part is the shroud that I was talking about, this one is the one I painted. Pretty good if I may say so myself.
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Mini Morimoto HIDs! (cont.)

More pics:

Headlamp Automotive lighting Light Auto part Vehicle

Automotive lighting Headlamp Auto part

Headlamp Automotive lighting Light Auto part Vehicle

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Headlamp Hood

Can't wait to be painted...
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For some reason I can only upload 4 pictures per post, oh well.

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Headlamp Automotive lighting

Headlamp Automotive lighting Vehicle Car Light

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Bumper Automotive lighting

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Bumper Hood

I'm going to take some night-time pictures right now. Stay tuned...

Nevermind, I need a white wall to take some good cutoff pics, the trash can just doesn't quite cut it.
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Big Update: Carbon Fiber, Plasti-dip, Vitara build!

So it's been a while since I updated my build thread. To start, I Plasti-dipped my rims black, I like black rims. A lot. Here they are!

I thought it turned out pretty nicely. And if it doesn't work out, I can just peel it off.

Next up, Carbon Fiber parts fabrication! Here's the center armrest mold wrapped in just carbon fiber:

Here's the finished piece:

And here it is installed:

I am in the process of finishing the trunk lid as am about to start on making the hood.
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I picked up this d16y8. I was rebuilt but one of the ringlands cracked and scratched the wall. So I'm going to take it all apart, put new Vitaras in, custom length rods, new seals and bearings etc.

Here it is, I'm in the process of taking it apart.

It has P2P0's custom length rods in it which, if the pass my inspection, I will reuse. I will take pictures of the crank tomorrow but it looks great! The engine was built and run for 2000 miles so the water pump, timing belt, main seals and such are in good shape. Spares me having to buy them! Everything is being taken apart to be cleaned though.

I bought 75.5mm Vitaras from Go Autoworks along with his catch can and intake manifold gasket for future use. I'll be taking the random parts (intake manifold, engine harness etc.) from the two parts cars I have.

I going to run the maximum efficient psi on my T3 60 .48 a/r. I have no idea what that would be but I'm sure it's higher than the 7 psi I'm running now. Once I'm bored of that I'll get a bigger turbocharger.
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Crank and CF Trunk

Here's the crankshaft:

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And here's the trunk lid with the carbon fiber overlay. I'll be removing the webbing from the back of the lid to remove as much metal as possible. Eventually I'll make a pure CF trunk lid but after I make the CF hood, which will be much easier.

This is all before any sanding at all. I just sanded it today with 80 grit, then 120, 150. Next would be 300, then 500, 1000, 2000, rubbing compound, clear coat.
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I'm having transmission issues as well:

1. It pops out of 2nd gear when going from load to no load especially at higher rpms. This means the CSB is popping out and needs staking etc.

2. Used to grind going into 3rd gear especially at high rpms. Once I put Pennzoil Synchromesh in it helped, but I don't like using band-aid fixes. What I gathered is that the 3-4 shift fork needs replacing.

3. ISB making noise. Replace ISB

So my options are:
1. Replace/attend to only the three parts as stated above. Cost: $70 + time
2. Purchase rebuild kit with carbon syncros (may as well) from Syncrotech plus 3-4 shift fork. Cost: $370 + more time
3. Purchase a fully rebuilt 6th gen EX transmission from Syncrotech. Cost: $810 after shipping

I need advice here. I'm building a vitara engine for initially 260whp then upper 300's after that. Option 1 is obviously cheapest but what are the chances I'll just need to rebuild it anyway? That may be unanswerable without actually looking at the transmission. Option 2 would be the hardest, would take time, but I have two spare transmissions that I could build on the side so there little down time. I also have never ever done transmission work so the propensity to mess something up is exponentially higher. Option 3 would be easiest but would necessitate the sale of $800 worth of parts from my parts cars which is no small task and would take time.

What are your opinions?
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old design 3-4 fork tends to make a mess of things, expect to replace the 3-4 slider ($149!) ring. If the old fork is worn down enough you can use a 92-95 3-4 slider

Rarely do more that 1-2 bearings need replaced, esp. if you are driving on it now without many issues. The trannys I get that need a bunch of bearings replaced led rough lives.

Option 4, slowly buy all the parts then make a road trip to Cincinnati for a day or allow me to use my discounts. Watching and learning is free. Morgantown PA is a long haul though.

Option 5, install a known good spare tranny, then have the time to slowly walk through your first tranny, I will need pics, please use photobucket. Pics uploaded to here are always too small to view detail.

If I can walk a VW guy (FlatFourFun) through assembling a basket case of a tranny via this forum, I'm sure you'll be OK. BTW he was in Pretoria, South Africa at the time.

Please note, I don't look as people's build threads, best to start a thread in tranny forum and update it as you go.
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If I didn't have a job I would go with option 4 but I can't take any more time off. I think I may go with option 5. I have two extra transmissions and I know at least one of them was operable the time I got the car, but I have no idea what condition it is in. Perhaps I could just freshen up one of those? I'd like to start compiling parts soon. I have a new ISB and seal, and I could get the set of seal that Syncrotech sells for $45. Then once I start the rebuild in a new thread you'd advise what else should be replaced? I guess I should note now that I do not have any major tools such as a press.

Thank you for your help!
The only real bitch part about the trans is trying to pull the bearings on the diff. If you replace these bearings get the speedo gear ahead of time cause it will prob break if you try to get them off. You will be able to tell the condition when you pop it open.

Here is a good walk through.
I remember reading that thread, it's what made me even think I could maybe possibly attempt a transmission overhaul. I think I might skip the differential bearings haha
New Parts

Here's the trunk sanded:

And here are the new parts I just got in:

Go-Autoworks intake manifold gasket:

75.5mm YCP Vitaras:

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Rik Rings:

I should be getting the catch can from Greg tomorrow so I'll post pictures!
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Had a little fun with some plasti-dip again. This time was more serious business.
I did the bumper, lip, grill, fenders, and side skirts. I think it looks much better than the white!

And a nice little carbon fiber overlay for the roof:

Next up will be the carbon fiber hood and trunk. I am considering plasti-dipping my whole car minus the carbon fiber. The nice thing about plasti-dip is that when I decide to do a real paint job, I can peel the paint off. Pretty cool if you ask me.
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This is a sweet build loving the plasti-dip. Quick question about the carbon stuff. Are you making it your self and if so where do you go about getting the materials at.

Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
Thank you, I get the carbon fiber and resin from If you have any questions about what to get into, I can help.
Thank you, I get the carbon fiber and resin from If you have any questions about what to get into, I can help.
Sweet thanks man

Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app

How are you running now? How long has it been? Did you do any internals? I just hope it's reliable. I love your set up dude! Perfect numbers for daily! I wanna see that engine bay clean! Haha
I have not had a single issue with it yet! We've had 3 weeks of 95-105 degree weather and it runs just as well as it did in February.

I have an engine that I'm building with forged custom length rods, vitara pistons, along with a ported and polished head, Supertech springs and retainers, Ferrea valves, and Delta 272-2 turbo cam. I'm shooting for 250-275 whp from the t3 60 and then up to 350 with a Bullseye Power turbo, most likely the Go-Autoworks Spec.

I definitely need to clean the engine bay, I will when the engine is out.
I installed the new Innovate MTX-L Wideband Gauge from Greg at Go-Autoworks last night. I did a quick test run and I must say that it is very accurate as compared to my old wideband. Here it is:

I would highly recommend this gauge!
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