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My d16y8 turbo build

130888 Views 286 Replies 55 Participants Last post by  TheAssassin
So after an incredibly long time I've finally turbocharged my 1997 Civic. After dabbling in the nitrous world over the summer, I decided to turbocharge my car with almost 160k miles on it. I planned my list of parts I would need and started purchasing them in the order that I'd be able to use them. I first got my hondata s300 and vac/boost, oil pressure, and wideband gauges so that I could at least use them before putting the whole turbo setup on. I ordered the street kit from Go-Autoworks with the Garrett T3 60 .48 a/r, along with the walbro 255 pump and 450cc injectors (which were out of stock, so Greg gave me 650cc's instead, no additional charge, just shows how dedicated Greg is to satisfying customers!) I received the kit November 18th. The next morning, driving in to work at 3:30 am I crashed my car. I ran over a tree. Yes, there was a tree across the road, a good foot and half in diameter. It looked like a relatively small branch from far away, but it wasn't. I totally destroyed the front end of my car and set off both airbags. I had it towed home (1 mile away, $125) and drove my wife's nissan to work. I bought a junky 1997 white civic to use for parts. Over the next 2 and a half months I replaced (used parts came from the white civic):

rad support (new)
oil pan (new)
pass. side lower control arm (used)
pass. side strut (new)
pass. side cv axle (new)
both knuckles (used)
entire subframe (crossmember? I've heard it called both) (used)
both fenders (used)
bumper (used)
bumper support (used)
airbags and srs unit (used)
both headlights (used cheap hid ones from the white civic)
rims and tires (used, tree bent one of my other rims)
Anyway, this is what my car looks like now, I wish I took a picture of it when it was crashed. It's on the dyno (duh)

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Bumper Hood

Right now it's on the stock suspension, with the front passenger side having the brand new strut, which makes the car sit about 2 inches higher on that corner. I'm going full coilovers soon so I didn't want to buy four struts if I didn't have to do so.

While doing all these replacements, I was also installing my turbo system:
Engine Vehicle Auto part Car Fuel line

I ended up not needing the boost control solenoid, that's why it's not hooked up. And my apologies for the incredibly dirty engine bay.
Onward, I finally had my car tuned yesterday. I would say the shops name but I don't know if I should because they wouldn't like me saying how my car fell off the dyno, or more like it rolled off the dyno. My car was so awesome that it magically melted one of the straps and popped off the rollers and almost hit the guy painting the wall next to us. Looking back, it's kind of cool having a car fall off a dyno at 70mph and not destroy anything, the guys were good sports about it and I'm very happy no one was hurt. But that's the reason I wont disclose the shops name, they might not like the bad publicity but I will say that they are very good at what they do.

Here's a video of the last run on the dyno. My car made 211 whp and 167 wtq on 7lbs of boost, 2.5" exhaust, no catalytic converter.

Dyno Tuning - YouTube

I hope my first post works!
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Lemme know what you guys think!
Future mods:
Progress technology cs2 coilovers
Competition stage 4 clutch
ARP headstuds
Eagle rods, Vitara pistons

I welcome any comments or suggestions!
Thanks! Me and the tuner were surprised especially by the torque, it hit 150 ft lbs on just 5 psi and 167ft lbs on 7 psi
I really wish I caught that on video! It was rolling at 70mph and the strap that was wrapped around the lca melted and the car jumped sideways. There was a race spec carbon fibered s2000 10 feet in front, I bet they're glad they strapped the back down good haha. The tuner said that was the first time he had a car jump off
so not that I actually did some more of "my build" but over the past two days I've heard 4 metallic pings at random times. it turns out it was the four nuts holding the turbo to the manifold, they had worked themselves loose. I either didn't tighten them or didn't use lock washers, I'm not sure. but luckily the last one fell off a mile away from my dads lab and I was able to drive it mostly downhill to see if I could get the four nuts from him. he had them and I was able to get the turbo hooked back up lol
I have pics of the dyno on my camera, my daughter is sleeping on me at the moment but I'll post asap!
I get full boost at about 3000rpm but it starts spooling immediately, as soon as I floor it.
Here's the dyno graph, I hope its clear enough but it made 211 whp and about 167 tq

Text Line Diagram Design Parallel
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I'm very happy with the numbers, if you don't have a plan yet i would definitely recommend Go-Autoworks' street kit, some of the best stuff you can buy for the money. My car pulls very hard, much harder than a 75 shot of nitrous ever did last summer.
the spool time is definitely nice, and yes having ac is a must when driving the wife and baby daughter around in the summer, the downpipe clears the compressor by about a half inch- 3/4 of an inch
I wasn't aware that Go-Autoworks made their own rods though, I know fjt and rc autoworks do but hey I'm game if they do!
yes fjt supplies rods that will up the compression when using vitaras, I would probably get them once I start my vitara build, whenever that is lol
I didn't use any heat wrap on anything, there's that foam around the ac lines and none of it is melted at all so I'm assuming the lines are far enough away from the downpipe and such
oh wow that's news to me, what happened to them? yeah i know rc carries them as well

So this thread by ddd4114 made me want to calculate the average horsepower that my car makes since average horsepower means more than peak horsepower.
Calculating average horsepower would have been easy if I had the formula for the line on the dyno plot because then I'd just take the integral of that line to find the area under the curve and divide that value by the rpm range (in my case 7200-2000=5200). Except I didn't have the formula for this line and didn't know of any programs that could generate it. Since I was just wanting a rough estimate of the average horsepower I decided to just transcribe the dyno plot onto a sheet of graph paper and enter in the horsepower values into Excel with their respective rpms. I used the trapezoid rule as opposed to the rectangle rule, just so I wouldn't be too far off.
So the trapezoid rule:


I went up by increments of 200 starting at 2000 (where the dyno run started) up to 7200 (where it ended).
Using Excel's handy autosum feature I was able to quickly calculate the sum of all these values: 691600
This obviously isn't my average horsepower lol I needed to divide this number by the rpms, in this case it was 5200
691600/5200=133 average whp from 2000rpm to 7200 rpm
If there's an easier way to do this, cool, but this is how I did it and it makes sense. I think it would be interesting if people would list their average horsepower along with their peak horsepower. In addition, you could find your average horsepower for any rpm range, such as the rpm range that you're in while drag racing e.g. 4800-7200.
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i'm getting a set of progress csII's did you ever get yours?
ah yeah that is the main complaint with them, and Koni/GC's are a very good set up too, very versatile and very good quality
New Parts!

So my input shaft bearing needs to be replaced. Here it is along with the oil seal:
Auto part Revolver

I also got a Competition Clutch Stage 4 clutch and pressure plate:
Fictional character

Auto part Clutch Transmission part Clutch part

I also got a set of Progress csII to replace my blown 15 year old suspension:
Auto part Automotive engine part Suspension part Metal
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New Parts! (cont.)

Suspension Suspension part Auto part Shock absorber

New OEM top hats (fourth one is already installed):
Button Auto part Grommet Wheel Metal

Cutting the bump stop:
Finger Hand Bowie knife Blade Nail

All put together:
Coil spring Auto part Suspension Suspension part Shock absorber

I hope to install the suspension parts tomorrow or Monday if I have time. The clutch and bearings I'm going to do at my dad's laboratory because it's super clean there and clean=good when dealing with open transmission surgery. I'll be sure to take a lot of pics so stay tuned!
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Progress Technology Competition Series II

On Monday I installed my CSII's. It was very straightforward, the only snags were getting the old bolts out, blow torch anyone?

I took pics of the rears:

Coil spring Auto part Suspension part Suspension

Vehicle brake Auto part Brake Disc brake Machine

Auto part Bumper Tire Automotive tire Automotive exterior

Coil spring Suspension part Auto part Suspension Shock absorber
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Progress Technology Competition Series II (cont.)

Here's my car: Front ride height is 12 1/2 inches, rear ride height is 13 inches. I'll eventually lower it a half inch front/rear but I need to raise my exhaust a little bit to avoid scrapping.

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Alloy wheel Hood

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Alloy wheel Motor vehicle

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Hood Bumper

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Hood Automotive design

I'll get the white front end repainted soon I hope as we as getting an OEM colored gas cap door (the clear came with the car...)
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Progress Technology Competition Series II (cont.)

You can see here the super tyte JDM Civic Type R that I took apart to rebuild my red civic lol

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Crash Mid-size car

My goals with this car is to daily drive, with as much autocross and dragging as possible. I would rather this car be a blast to drive on the back roads as opposed to insanely fast down the strip.

So far after 2 days I can tell that it handles so much better than my 15 year old suspension. I can go around turns so much faster than before and there's a lot less body roll as well. One thing that I love about the new suspension is the near lack of backwards shifting when taking off.

On a different note, I had to take the power steering belt off (pivot bolt snapped in half, oh well) and that coupled with the suspension means there's a lot more feedback while driving.
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Pics of Gauge Setup

I posted these pictures in another thread but since they pertain to my build I'll post them here too.

Here's my Air:Fuel ratio, Vacuum/Boost, and Oil Pressure gauges on the A pillar. I wired in an on/off switch because I didn't feel like doing the dimmer option. The switch is next to the mirror adjuster switch.

Car Vehicle Family car Center console

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Gauge Speedometer

And here's my Nitrous pressure gauge (currently not hooked up because I have no nitrous lol)

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Vehicle audio Center console
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