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My D16A8 turbo build 1988 ED9 CRX restoration

56909 Views 181 Replies 49 Participants Last post by  Soul Engineering
I thought it was about time I started posting where I'm at with this.

The CRX is mostly stripped down.

Most of the dash still to be removed, then doors and hatch.

Engine out with head off. Needs to go on stand and be stripped down. I need to make room in workshop.

D17 need to be stripped of crank if I decide to go that way.

I still need to buy some parts.
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I have on order:-
Go-Autoworks cast iron exhaust manifold to suit DOHC D16
Spec twin plate clutch and flywheel (I know, overkill but it was so nice I could not resist it).
Walbro in tank fuel pump.
4 bar MAP sensor.
I will buy some diesel engine 78mm wet sleeves and turn them down to fit the D, Benson style I think.

I am trying to buy a second hand OBX ? LSD for the rear diff in the RT4WD conversion. I know they are a bit dodgy re quality but as I need to modify it to fit I will start with the real cheap one. If it fails and I am confident I can modify another successfully, I will buy an M factory unit. I will be trying like all hell to also figure out a way to modify it to fit the front.

If I can figure that, I will buy an M Factory for the front and use the OBX on the back.

I am about to start work on the firewall and floor pan for the RT4WD conversion to the CRX.
Photo of the goodies

Photo of the parts collection


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Fun update! =)
I noticed the 14point7 wb02 and went and checked out there website. Alan has gone quite a ways since I got a DIY kit for $50 4 years ago. LOL.

I'm excited to see this car come together.
Subscribed as well. And I'm glad to see you decided to go the route your going. GL and keep at it!
wow pat, shes coming together.

CRX is going to be RT4WD???

lets hear more about the diesel sleeves. i assume they are a flange style sleeve that the machine shop will just press into the current aluminum "outer sleeve"
My idea is to get a very thick wall sleeve of the correct bore and turn it down to fit. The hard parts are the rubber O ring groves to seal the water and especially the flats where the sleeves meet each other.

I do not need closed deck sleeves as the head plate will close the deck and stabilize the top of the bores.

I will only bore out the original aluminium sleeve about 1/2 way down so the bottom half (where it does not see cylinder pressure) is a thin iron sleeve located in the original aluminium, but the top is thick iron sleeve that is bigger than the original aluminium. I still need to measure exactly how deep the thick part will go and how high the original aluminium stub will sit above the base in the crankcase.

I think this leaves the crankcase a bit stronger and does not detract from the strength of the iron sleeve anywhere that it matters.

I really wish I had a spare junk block to play with and make sure it all fits before I hit the good block with a mill cutter.
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It should end up with:-

About 225mm final deck height, depending on how the longer belt actually fits. Trial fit up required.

150mm rods. With a bit of luck the off the shelf SBC 6" rods with "Honda" big ends will fit. That is if Honda means D16 big ends. It probably means B series which is workable. Homework required.

Custom forged pistons with DOHC D valve notches and compression height of probably 27.75mm

D17 crank is 94.5 stroke or 47.25 crank arm length.

This gives rod:stroke of 1.59:1

If I need to take 0.100" off the head to get quench pads at the deck surface, if so, I might need an extra 0.100" on the block deck height to keep belt length correct. That can be taken up with 6.1" rods which might also be off the shelf SBC rods or with more compression height on the piston. More homework.
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I think A H22 belt is the correct length and width. If it's to wide I can use B series pulleys. I probably will need to anyway to buy adjustable pulleys. I don't know if a B or H series bottom pulley will fit a D16 or D17 snout or what needs to be done to make it fit. Obviously the torsional vibration damper and belt drives would need realignment.
Locating the deck plate is pretty easy. Just make longer dowels or maybe shorter dowels but one from the head and one from the block, meeting in the middle of the plate.

I think there is provision for 4 dowels, but only 2 are normally used. If so I would try to use all 4 dowel locations.

The way I see this failing is a water leak between the plate and the original block. Oil pressure to the head should be easy. Oil drain from the head should not be a real problem as there is no pressure.
B18B/A series has the same diameter big end as the D16. D16 is just slightly thinner (but you will need to go even THINNER since the D17 rod big end is slightly thinner than the D16)
I have full access to a surface grinder and a lathe. Thinning rods is easy. Just bolt the right size bearing in there. Mount on grinder bed making sure the surface is parallel to the bed. Grind until you have the correct distance between the rod thrust face and the bearing edge.

Flip over and repeat if required to get correct width and the bearing shell centralised.

The next step gets slightly more difficult. That is chamfer the big end of the rod so it clears the crank big end journal fillet radius. That can be done in a lathe by gripping the inside of the big end bore in the rod, but the rod beam will be hanging all out one side and out of balance, so slow and careful not to hit the bed or yourself with the little end and not to throw the rod out of the lathe and across the room.

I sure hope the Honda journal Chevy rods are the right big end dia. That will save me about $500 on the build. Hmmm I think I know where there might be six SBC 6" Honda journal Carrillos left out of a set of 8. The other two decided to leave town at about 7000rpm. The block only got in the way for about a millisecond. I hope they are Honda journal as they might be REAL cheap
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and you would need to machine the tangs into the rod.

but that can be done with an angle grinder and a steady hand. LOL
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If you put shells in and use them as a guide, the tangs end up correct.

That is why I said maybe grind from both sides. Often the tang is the correct distance from one side so you can grind it all from one side only.
B18B/A series has the same diameter big end as the D16. D16 is just slightly thinner (but you will need to go even THINNER since the D17 rod big end is slightly thinner than the D16)
Im 99.9% sure that b18c rods are the same big end diameter and narrower than b18 and d16. They are also longer. I looked up all the measurements to see if they could be used to raise compression on a vitara setup.

I would also be interested if the sbc rods could be made to fit your setup. Although I bought some for another engine I never compared. You would get 8 rods for the price of 4 hondas though.
You would get 8 rods for the price of 4 hondas though.
Is that 4 Honda rods or 4 complete Hondas. ;-)
My Walbro 255 fuel pump, 3 bar MAP sensor, Go-Autoworks cast iron exhaust manifold and Spec twin plate clutch and flywheel turned up today. 21 Jan sure kicked the shit out of 25 Dec this summer.
this summer... haha. so weird how christmas is summer down there.

we always dream of a "white christmas" (aka snow). i bet yall dont get many of those. haha

oh one more thing, i noticed that wideband u got, the blue one... well i have the same one, and i love it. but if i go for a long drive, and have the heat cranked, it will eventually over heat and start bugging out. so keep it somewhere cool if possible.
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