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My D16A8 turbo build 1988 ED9 CRX restoration

56903 Views 181 Replies 49 Participants Last post by  Soul Engineering
I thought it was about time I started posting where I'm at with this.

The CRX is mostly stripped down.

Most of the dash still to be removed, then doors and hatch.

Engine out with head off. Needs to go on stand and be stripped down. I need to make room in workshop.

D17 need to be stripped of crank if I decide to go that way.

I still need to buy some parts.
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I'm trying to figure out how to post pics here.
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Pics of Car

Pics of outside of car partly stripped.


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Inside car

The inside and seats


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Removed panels

Original panels and underbonnet


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Parts in storage

Engine, gear box, interior and suspension parts stored in car trailer


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New Parts

The turbo and ECU and maybe waste gate


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Turbo is Garrett GT2859R-707160-9. M24 cast on compressor.
Ball bearing, water cooled bearings.
Compressor is 44.5 inducer, 59.4 exducer, 56 trim, 0.42 A/R
Turbine is 53.8 wheel dia, 62 trim, 0.64 A/R
It has an internal waste gate but I also have a 41mm Chinese external.

I wonder if there is any advantage to running the external and locking the internal closed or using it as second stage or backup if the external sticks.
The external wastegate or the chipped PS9 ECU
The ECU was chipped by member Fuse

I am waiting on some debtors to pay up to order an Osterich 2, a Moats chip burner and a wide band set up. This should happen this week
I am still deciding on which of two builds.

I have a near new D17Z1 that I can pull the crank from.

I have a somewhat second hand B20B I can take valves and rods from.
The other engines

Some other engines I can rob for parts.

Opps how did that crank, cam and oil pump from another project get in there. Yes it is an oil pump.


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First possible build being considered.

D18 based on the D16A8 DOHC.
Sleeved to 78mm bore with forged pistons to give 9:1 CR, probably SRP if available or Arias or Wiseco.
D17 crank with turned down snout to D16 size. Same deal as sqlcivic
Custom rods about 150mm long, 7/16 ARP2000 bolts.
About 12mm deck plate with sleeves through deck plate to create tall deck block for decent rod angle. Final dimension to be determined after trial fit with H22 belt
B20 valves and head de-shrouded to 78mm bore.
After market springs. Seat pressure yet to be decided.
Full port and polish.
Head milled to give a good flat quench surface.
Stock D16A8 cams.
Adjustable cam gears to optimise stock cams to turbo and correct for deck influence with H22 belt.
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Second possible build.

75.5mm bore with stock pistons with 8.5:1 compression.
Milled head to give good quench pads.
Stock crank.
Modified B20 rods with ARP bolts.
Port and polish and de-shroude to 75.5 bore and springs.
Stock valves.
Adjustable cam gears.
I am trying to decide on what cast iron manifold for either.

Needs reasonable power, real good durable seal and reasonable quiet and good clearance on radiator, A/C and P/S as it will be a DD and need good comfort and ability to use phone with hands free kit at highway speed.
Dan and Beaver

That's what's going on in my mind.

The only real advantages of the 18 are drive-ability and of boost power, but it will cost about $1500 to $2000 more to build and will have stronger rods and pistons.

There is a lot more work involved, but I have access to a mill and lathe and guidance from a very good semi retired toolmaker. He is also helping me make a new crank for the 1912 Little Giant I am rebuilding.

In the end I will probably take the easy way for expedience so I can start driving it.

If I can obtain a second DOHC d-series core I might end up eventually doing both.

I will PM Jaker to see where he ran into problems
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I have stripped out the RT4WD wagon and returned the leftovers to the guy I bought it from as agreed.

I may have an Eaton M90 just to see if it can be fitted any way any how. I think not, but they are dirt cheap here second hand, like maybe $100 to $200.

I am now fairly convinced for the tall deck D18.

I have since acquired.

Bosch 17014 wide band O2 sensor.
SLC Pure Plus digital display.
14point7 software.
Ostrich 2.0 emulator.
Xtreme Hulog data logger.
Moats Burn 2 chip burner.
DSM 450 blue top injectors.
Garrett GT2859R p/n707160-9 turbo.
Chinese external waste gate.
Clutchmaster aluminium flywheel (probably won't use it).
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I have on order:-
Go-Autoworks cast iron exhaust manifold to suit DOHC D16
Spec twin plate clutch and flywheel (I know, overkill but it was so nice I could not resist it).
Walbro in tank fuel pump.
4 bar MAP sensor.
I will buy some diesel engine 78mm wet sleeves and turn them down to fit the D, Benson style I think.

I am trying to buy a second hand OBX ? LSD for the rear diff in the RT4WD conversion. I know they are a bit dodgy re quality but as I need to modify it to fit I will start with the real cheap one. If it fails and I am confident I can modify another successfully, I will buy an M factory unit. I will be trying like all hell to also figure out a way to modify it to fit the front.

If I can figure that, I will buy an M Factory for the front and use the OBX on the back.

I am about to start work on the firewall and floor pan for the RT4WD conversion to the CRX.
Photo of the goodies

Photo of the parts collection


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