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My D16A8 turbo build 1988 ED9 CRX restoration

56904 Views 181 Replies 49 Participants Last post by  Soul Engineering
I thought it was about time I started posting where I'm at with this.

The CRX is mostly stripped down.

Most of the dash still to be removed, then doors and hatch.

Engine out with head off. Needs to go on stand and be stripped down. I need to make room in workshop.

D17 need to be stripped of crank if I decide to go that way.

I still need to buy some parts.
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A D18 DOHC would be fantastic, but the second build is simpler and faster and probably less expensive, if that is a consideration for you.
Fun update! =)
Yes please.

Have you gotten to use the ECU that I sent you? Just curious.
Leave all the datalogging tot he Hulog, or, tap into the wires for whatever you want to datalog off the SLC unit and have that datalog, but, you are going to need to make sure you get a tach signal or you won't have very useful data, IMO.

The hulog is only a translator between the ECU and whatever program you are using to actually do that logging. It translates the request from your datalogging software to the ECU, which then send the info requested to the Hulog, which sends it to the software. Freelog/logworks/ECUControl/SManager/Neptune, etc., are technically the datalogers.

In order for the software to get meaningful wideband readings, you simply connect the analogue output from the wideband and connect it to the stock narrowband input, for OBD0. OBD1 has the option of using other places for the wideband input. Once the analogue output is connected to the narrowband input, you wil be able to log the AFRs with all the other data, though, you may have to fiddle with the grounds for the wideband controller to make sure that there are no voltage offsets which will through the lambda reading off a bit.
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In TurboEdit, click on file>properties then find the O2 sensor options. For tuning, you turn the O2 sensor completely off. This puts it in open loop mode. You will not have closed loop in this mode, it is just for tuning. You can tune cruise to your liking, then pt the stock sensor back to it's normal function, and everything will be pretty happy unless you get too crazy with how lean you make cruise, then you may pop a code 1 on occasion, but you have to go pretty darn lean for that to happen.
Oh, and you want to use the ECUControl plugin, not the standalone logger. You can find it on PGMFI, and if you have any issues getting it set up, email me.
The SLC has datalogging capability. I will log sensor input, but it cannot log actual ECU ouputs, like the fuel pulsewidth and what row and column the ECU is pulling data from in the timing and fuel tables. However, that is NOT to say that the SLC's datalogging is useless. It isn't. From what I have seen of the software, it is fairly capable of logging useful information that is outside the scope of the ECU. You can use the inputs to log things like EGT, accelerometer output, stuff like that.

ECUControl is a plug in to TurboEdit that logs data from the ECU (only) via the Hulog. ECUControl has very limited connectivity to outside sources of information. It is possible, but not easy or well supported or supported at all.

The Hulog cannot work without software on the other end. It is simply a translator. If there is nothing on the other end to request, store and interpret the data requested, it is useless on it's own end. It is more like a fuel line. It carries useful stuff from one end to another, but just by itself, it just sits there.

ECUControl, logging through the Hulog, will give you injector duty cycle, ignition timing output, MAP, RPM, speed, gear, barometric pressure, row and column data (very, very useful, IMO), logged AFR, IAT and ECT and calculated throttle position. I might have missed something. I stare at enough logs to know the important ones.

There is very limited knowledge on how to use additional inputs to log more useful stuff. The ECU is capable of it, as the PM8 ECUs for the CRX Hf have control of the EGR valve lift position via a valve lift sensor, which, if that could be harnessed would be boost control (if the ECU can respond fast enough, which we simply don't know). I know that Euro models of earlier cars did not have ELDs, and that input can be logged for a standard 0-5V input. I will be using that functionality in the future for other purposes, but, most of the time, I use it as it's intended function which is ELD compensation, as the OBD0 ECUs are pretty terrible at not running rich when there are higher electrical loads (lights, stereo, brake lights) on the system.

I haven't run Det cans . . . yet. However, a friend of mine has had very good success with electronic ones, better, in his opinion than the acoustic ones. However, ANYTHING is better than nothing. I can't get into more specifics than that on an open forum, however. If you'd like to know more, please feel free to email me. =)

The PGMFI forums are really like mini for gold. It's not nice and neat like a supermarket. You have to mine, putting in work. If you want to know about something, just email me and I can likely point you in the right direction or just answer the question right off.
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You'd welcome, Pat.

Don't forget about mirrors. If you can affix a mirror at just the right angle at the right spot, you will have a better line of sight on the angles. This is just speculation, though. I love using my small mechanic's mirror for tight spaces.
Hard Cider> generic beer. :p

I wasn't allowed to drink beer in Iraq. I don't usually, but some days . . . it would have been really nice. (Welding in 140*F weather is not so easy. LOL)
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HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAH! That is an awesome line.

I'll have to remember that if I am ever in your part of the world, Pat. I'll buy you a Guiness or something more to your taste.
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I would like that. =)
Easiest way to tell if the ECU is fried is to pop the cover off.

It kinda sounds to me like the grounding is messed up. How do you have the wideband controller hooked up?
I would also try disconnecting the wideband sensor from the ground (and power, too, heh) and see if that helps the situation.

I am glad you found the issue, Pat. Now it is my turn to be nervous and see how my guestimate of a tune works out. LOL!
It very well could be pig rich. I may have over estimated things. It shouldn't be too hard to make some gross adjustments to get it into range, though.
Yup, that is an EEPROM (Electrically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory), so you can burn over it.

The bottom of the burner is the end opposite the handle. The notch on the chip is more of a half moon indentation on one of the short sides of the chip.

Edit: just save what's on the chip first, just in case! LOL! Worst case, I can just email you something. Also, I can send you another bin to get idle cleaned up, too, if you'd like!

I am glad it wasn't my fault. LOL!

If the engine is a tad lean, select the whole fuel map and richen it up a couple clicks. I tried to keep the rest of the map as proportional as possible, so the rest of the map might be a bit lean, then.

Have you driven it yet?
Okay! I'm always wondering, curious, and fretful when I haven't done something before. LOL!
Wow . . . Not even in my neck of they woods are they that crazy. They just want steering, brakes, lights, horn and emissions to check. Most shops don't care about anything else, as long as it isn't something too crazy.


I think the thing that shocks me the most is the radio. Who the heck cares if you take it out? I suppose you can't strip out your vehicle, either . . . LOL!

That's just a shame that things are getting that stupid there, too. Oh well. You're nearly done.
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