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1988 Honda CRX
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6,676 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I thought it was about time I started posting where I'm at with this.

The CRX is mostly stripped down.

Most of the dash still to be removed, then doors and hatch.

Engine out with head off. Needs to go on stand and be stripped down. I need to make room in workshop.

D17 need to be stripped of crank if I decide to go that way.

I still need to buy some parts.
 

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1988 Honda CRX
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6,676 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
I'm trying to figure out how to post pics here.
 

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1988 Honda CRX
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6,676 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Pics of Car

Pics of outside of car partly stripped.
 

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1988 Honda CRX
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6,676 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Inside car

The inside and seats
 

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1988 Honda CRX
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6,676 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Removed panels

Original panels and underbonnet
 

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1988 Honda CRX
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6,676 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Parts in storage

Engine, gear box, interior and suspension parts stored in car trailer
 

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1988 Honda CRX
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6,676 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
New Parts

The turbo and ECU and maybe waste gate
 

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Premium Member
96 Honda Civic
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985 Posts
The turbo and ECU and maybe waste gate
What is in the second picture that silver thing. You got a great start. Can't wait tell you get it done!
 

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1988 Honda CRX
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6,676 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Turbo is Garrett GT2859R-707160-9. M24 cast on compressor.
Ball bearing, water cooled bearings.
Compressor is 44.5 inducer, 59.4 exducer, 56 trim, 0.42 A/R
Turbine is 53.8 wheel dia, 62 trim, 0.64 A/R
It has an internal waste gate but I also have a 41mm Chinese external.

I wonder if there is any advantage to running the external and locking the internal closed or using it as second stage or backup if the external sticks.
 

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1988 Honda CRX
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6,676 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
The external wastegate or the chipped PS9 ECU
 

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1988 Honda CRX
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6,676 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
The ECU was chipped by D-series.org member Fuse

I am waiting on some debtors to pay up to order an Osterich 2, a Moats chip burner and a wide band set up. This should happen this week
 

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1988 Honda CRX
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6,676 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I am still deciding on which of two builds.

I have a near new D17Z1 that I can pull the crank from.

I have a somewhat second hand B20B I can take valves and rods from.
 

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1988 Honda CRX
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6,676 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
The other engines

Some other engines I can rob for parts.

Opps how did that crank, cam and oil pump from another project get in there. Yes it is an oil pump.
 

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1988 Honda CRX
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6,676 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
First possible build being considered.


D18 based on the D16A8 DOHC.
Sleeved to 78mm bore with forged pistons to give 9:1 CR, probably SRP if available or Arias or Wiseco.
D17 crank with turned down snout to D16 size. Same deal as sqlcivic
Custom rods about 150mm long, 7/16 ARP2000 bolts.
About 12mm deck plate with sleeves through deck plate to create tall deck block for decent rod angle. Final dimension to be determined after trial fit with H22 belt
B20 valves and head de-shrouded to 78mm bore.
After market springs. Seat pressure yet to be decided.
Full port and polish.
Head milled to give a good flat quench surface.
Stock D16A8 cams.
Adjustable cam gears to optimise stock cams to turbo and correct for deck influence with H22 belt.
 

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1988 Honda CRX
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6,676 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Second possible build.

75.5mm bore with stock pistons with 8.5:1 compression.
Milled head to give good quench pads.
Stock crank.
Modified B20 rods with ARP bolts.
Port and polish and de-shroude to 75.5 bore and springs.
Stock valves.
Adjustable cam gears.
 

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1988 Honda CRX
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6,676 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
I am trying to decide on what cast iron manifold for either.

Needs reasonable power, real good durable seal and reasonable quiet and good clearance on radiator, A/C and P/S as it will be a DD and need good comfort and ability to use phone with hands free kit at highway speed.
 

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Classic Man
Civic
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16,355 Posts
member Jaker was thinking about going with a deck plate but was convinced otherwise. perhaps give him a PM.

i think option 2 is a lot easier and most likely make around the same amount of power in the end.
 

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1988 Honda CRX
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Discussion Starter #19
Dan and Beaver

That's what's going on in my mind.

The only real advantages of the 18 are drive-ability and of boost power, but it will cost about $1500 to $2000 more to build and will have stronger rods and pistons.

There is a lot more work involved, but I have access to a mill and lathe and guidance from a very good semi retired toolmaker. He is also helping me make a new crank for the 1912 Little Giant I am rebuilding.

In the end I will probably take the easy way for expedience so I can start driving it.

If I can obtain a second DOHC d-series core I might end up eventually doing both.

I will PM Jaker to see where he ran into problems
 

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1988 Honda CRX
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6,676 Posts
Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Update.

I have stripped out the RT4WD wagon and returned the leftovers to the guy I bought it from as agreed.

I may have an Eaton M90 just to see if it can be fitted any way any how. I think not, but they are dirt cheap here second hand, like maybe $100 to $200.

I am now fairly convinced for the tall deck D18.

I have since acquired.

Bosch 17014 wide band O2 sensor.
SLC Pure Plus digital display.
14point7 software.
Ostrich 2.0 emulator.
Xtreme Hulog data logger.
Moats Burn 2 chip burner.
DSM 450 blue top injectors.
Garrett GT2859R p/n707160-9 turbo.
Chinese external waste gate.
Clutchmaster aluminium flywheel (probably won't use it).
 
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