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Discussion Starter #1
alright so i got a build in mind for my 2000 civic ex and want some opinions on it from those more experienced than myself. so here it goes:

crower stage 2 cam
crower valve springs and retainers
dcsports 4-2-1 header
aem intake(already installed)
skunk 2 mega power series cat back kit(already installed)
aem fuel rail
rc 310cc injectors
walbro 255 fuel pump
aem cam gear
chipped p28 w/obd2 to obd1 conversion
SRP 75mm 10:5:1 pistons
XTD stage 2 clutch and 7.5lbs flywheel
si rear disc conversion
eagle h beam rods
arp head studs
port n polish
msd external coil

if you would do something different feel free to say what just let me know why so i learn something.
 

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Unless I'm missing something this is a strict N/a Build correct? If so then:

1. You don't need 310cc injectors
2. You don't need a fuel pump
3. You don't need forged pistons or rods
4. The external coil you could do without
5. You listed some high dollar parts but plan to run an XTD clutch? :WTF:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
well as far as the clutch goes it's cheap and there is one in my friends car and its actually pretty decent. also what would you reccomend as a build plan. im still trying to figure this stuff out. i got into it about 6 months ago and have been tryin to teach myself stuff by reading what i can but it seems good info is intermingled by a bunch of crap all over the internet. also when you do find a site its more for veterans with terminology that someone newer to this has trouble understanding.
 

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crower stage 2 cam
crower valve springs and retainers
dcsports 4-2-1 header
aem intake(already installed)
skunk 2 mega power series cat back kit(already installed)
aem fuel rail not required, stock will flow enough for 400 whp
rc 310cc injectors not required, your not going to be in the 160+ range by the look of your build. the stock 240s will work for you
walbro 255 fuel pump a 190 pump is all you need
aem cam gear
chipped p28 w/obd2 to obd1 conversion
SRP 75mm 10:5:1 pistons not needed, use p29s
XTD stage 2 clutch and 7.5lbs flywheel seriously, don't be cheap.
si rear disc conversion
eagle h beam rods by the look of your build your not going to break the stock ones..
arp head studs
port n polish port the intake, post and polish the exhaust
msd external coil not required, stock is good for 400+ whp
just a few of my thoughts.
 

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alright so i got a build in mind for my 2000 civic ex and want some opinions on it from those more experienced than myself. so here it goes:

crower stage 2 cam
crower valve springs and retainers
dcsports 4-2-1 header
aem intake(already installed)
skunk 2 mega power series cat back kit(already installed)
aem fuel rail
rc 310cc injectors
walbro 255 fuel pump
aem cam gear
chipped p28 w/obd2 to obd1 conversion
SRP 75mm 10:5:1 pistons
XTD stage 2 clutch and 7.5lbs flywheel
si rear disc conversion
eagle h beam rods
arp head studs
port n polish
msd external coil

if you would do something different feel free to say what just let me know why so i learn something.
I had the sg2 crower cam and loved it!
If you are planning on staying NA You dont need the fuel rail, 310 injectors, Fuel pump, srp pistons, sg2 clutch (just get a higher pressure plate and an organic disk much easyer to drive), flywheel (stock flywheel works just fine), and eagle rods. Everything else doesnt sound to bad. If you want more of a top end get a 4-1 header over the 4-2-1. The crower cam liked it in my car.
I used my stock rods with arp rod bolts and p29 pistons pressed onto them (Much cheaper setup and wount let you down), and used a little thicker head gasket to get me out of the 12:1 c/r and the car hauled ass with the stg 2 cams. The stock fuel system is perfect for what you want to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I had the sg2 crower cam and loved it!
If you are planning on staying NA You dont need the fuel rail, 310 injectors, Fuel pump, srp pistons, sg2 clutch (just get a higher pressure plate and an organic disk much easyer to drive), flywheel (stock flywheel works just fine), and eagle rods. Everything else doesnt sound to bad. If you want more of a top end get a 4-1 header over the 4-2-1. The crower cam liked it in my car.
I used my stock rods with arp rod bolts and p29 pistons pressed onto them (Much cheaper setup and wount let you down), and used a little thicker head gasket to get me out of the 12:1 c/r and the car hauled ass with the stg 2 cams. The stock fuel system is perfect for what you want to do.
thanx for the insight. but whats something i missed to get a little more juice from the car. i don't want a beast... i just wanna feel something when i step on it in 5th.
 

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Nothing really the higher compression with get you some more toruqe than you had before. And the stg2 cams will lobe nicely at idle. But you will have to mess with the timing, on the ecu, in the low rpms to get it to have power in the lower rpms. But in the higher rpms it pulled very nicely!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
ya hondas seem to do better at the high r's.i got no prob passing people when i down shift it just eats up gas alot more in 4th than 5th. from what i noticed the difference is about 7-8 mpg on about half a tank. with the gas prices in the bay area thats a big annoyance... and kinda expensive. still not terrible tho. my girl's stang gt would be lucky to get what i get when im gunnin it. also kinda wondering what is a cheap and effective way to tune the car (wat ecu and chip program. honestly im looking to pull about 170hp from the car. altho not sure if imma hit it with the setup i got so far while still passing smog. oh yeah and i got a slight backfire issue from my exhaust. runs a tiny bit rich. thought my intake would lean it out a bit (and it did, it was horrible before) but still looking for a fix to completely get rid of it.
 

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My advice to the OP is to get some more basic information from books rather than from an internet forum. Most posters will tell you what's wrong with your build but not why - it just takes too long. Here's a couple of books written by experienced authors that include contributions from some of the top builders. The options that could go into a build are discussed along with the trade-offs associated with each one. Start here and then use the forums to ask specific questions.

http://www.amazon.com/Performance-Honda-Builders-Handbook-Design/dp/1884089631/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1209787778&sr=8-12

http://www.amazon.com/Civic-Duty-Ultimate-Popular-Compact/dp/0837602157/ref=pd_bbs_6?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1209787617&sr=8-6
 

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Discussion Starter #12
My advice to the OP is to get some more basic information from books rather than from an internet forum. Most posters will tell you what's wrong with your build but not why - it just takes too long. Here's a couple of books written by experienced authors that include contributions from some of the top builders. The options that could go into a build are discussed along with the trade-offs associated with each one. Start here and then use the forums to ask specific questions.

http://www.amazon.com/Performance-Honda-Builders-Handbook-Design/dp/1884089631/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1209787778&sr=8-12

http://www.amazon.com/Civic-Duty-Ultimate-Popular-Compact/dp/0837602157/ref=pd_bbs_6?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1209787617&sr=8-6
thank you... this was the most helpful reply i got out of this entire thread.
 

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That first book is a little dated but has some great tuning theory in it. I borrowed it from a buddy and its mostly geared toward dohc's but does make comparisons to how things would apply on a sohc.

But for ppl on here, 99EJ6T said it all. Seriously I wouldn't go ebay on a clutch, take it from experience. Mine is ok for the price, but i wish I had spent the money on a name brand clutch that would last longer and be better to drive. As for the light flywheel, i wouldn't go any lower than a 12 lb becuase you will lose some torque with a super light flywheel like that. I'd probably just shave the stock one down some. The injectors would be a little overkill, but if you ever wanted to spray it they would be about a necessity. The fuel rail is too much because your stock one will support high hp. Same goes for the forged internals, OEM with P29's will be good on NA. Also as for the P&P, its probably not worth the $$$, and i'd only let someone who has done d series heads mess with it. MSD coil is also overkill for your setup, stock will support plenty of hp. As for the Walbro, they go for like $99, so i'd go ahead and pick it up, you're fpr will regulate the pressure and I don't see why it would hurt, but again the stock will be fine...Most of these guys speak from experience on this stuff, not just reading on the web, and I'm not trying to nit-pick you're setup, just don't want to see you waste money where it's not needed.
 
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