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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well i will first start off by saying that i will Keep updating this thread untill the build is finished. Should be a month or 2 depending on how long the machine shop has the block. last time it took him a month just to hone the cylinders and micropolish my crank.

I just picked up this motor today. we all have a few days off for the holidays, why waste them watching tv? At least thats how i feel.

the pics im showing up now are of taking the motor apart. Most important thing when taking an engine apart is keeping track of all the bolts and where things go. get some ziplock bags and a sharpie marker and tag the shit. take some pictures, it might be a long time till you put it back together and you might not remember how everything goes.

well my build is going to be

a6 block and head
Scat rods
Srp pistons 9to1 compression
JE rings
All honda bearings, gaskets, and seals.

enough of me talking, on to the pictures.
















 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)



im gonna hit the local manual car wash tonight and use the pressure washer to clean the block. i hope it comes out nice. it looks like shit now and is covered in oil.

this is whats goin in to the motor



 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
How much boost you plan on running?
i have a t3 60trim, i think they are good up to around 275hp. ill just rock that ,then in spring or summer ill upgrade to a larger turbo. then ill be shooting for 350+whp.
 

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yea i made 248 on 10lbs of boost on my t3/t4 fully built a6 motor before the passenger side strap busted off the dyno and my civic went side ways and almost killed my tuner huy tran from inline racing and matt from stoopedfast. so hopfully next time ill be hitting 360hp.
 

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looks nice keep us updated..if it helps i'm selling my d16z6 block and crank all machined work already done, block is stock bore just a honed and already notched for the rods, and crank is already micropolished. pm me if interested you can save sometime...
 

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looks nice keep us updated..if it helps i'm selling my d16z6 block and crank all machined work already done, block is stock bore just a honed and already notched for the rods, and crank is already micropolished. pm me if interested you can save sometime...
illl trade you my freshly honed, and painted d15b block and crank
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
bump for updates
block goes to the machine shop saturday.

had a problem with my scat rods, the slot for the bearing tang didnt fit oem bearings but acl's fit. now i find out the acl rod bearings wont work in my block. on 2 journals the clearance is less than .001 on the plastigage strip. so im going all oem bearings.

sending the rods back and either getting a replacement set or refund for eagles.

buying digital calipers so i can measure down to the .0001" .im doing this to measure the exact size of the rod journals and the big end rod bore. this is so i can buy the exact oem bearings i need without using plastigage . i fucking hate that stuff, and now im buying the correct tools to measure, ill never have to use it ever again.
 

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block goes to the machine shop saturday.

had a problem with my scat rods, the slot for the bearing tang didnt fit oem bearings but acl's fit. now i find out the acl rod bearings wont work in my block. on 2 journals the clearance is less than .001 on the plastigage strip. so im going all oem bearings.

sending the rods back and either getting a replacement set or refund for eagles.

buying digital calipers so i can measure down to the .0001" .im doing this to measure the exact size of the rod journals and the big end rod bore. this is so i can buy the exact oem bearings i need without using plastigage . i fucking hate that stuff, and now im buying the correct tools to measure, ill never have to use it ever again.

I hear you matching OEM bearings isnt the easiest thing to do, the codes give you a ball park but for some motors its a pain in the ass, I started using Micrometers with the needle point to get the right Honda bearing the first time instead of wasting money trying to swap the right ones by plastigauge readings
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
the codes give you a ball park but for some motors its a pain in the ass, I started using Micrometers with the needle point to get the right Honda bearing the first time instead of wasting money trying to swap the right ones by plastigauge readings
well with aftermarket rods, the codes go out the window. and yes, i hate plastigage.
 

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buying digital calipers so i can measure down to the .0001" .im doing this to measure the exact size of the rod journals and the big end rod bore. this is so i can buy the exact oem bearings i need without using plastigage . i fucking hate that stuff, and now im buying the correct tools to measure, ill never have to use it ever again.
good luck with that. the only real way to measure is with a set of inside micrometers. a digital caliper will get CLOSE, but not exact
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
i have been slacking off on building it. i just have to buy the bearings, and gaskets so i can put it together. work has been so busy and i just dont have much spare time. sould be done by spring, and when i have some good pictures, ill post them.
 
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