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Discussion Starter #1
So, did the MPFI swap from DPFI awhile ago. Worked out a couple small kinks and everything has been smooth as butter the last few weeks.

Well, last night my dumbass revved it under a bridge. Cel came on. Sputtered at times.

PM6 ECU flashes for code 9. Cylinder one position sensor.

I've already opened up the dizzy, everything seems fine in there. Checked, rechecked, and triple checked all my wiring. It all seems good to me. Plus it worked with zero problems for the last month or so.

Even depinned a couple wires to be sure. Cel is still there for code 9.

I've done a bit of research on it already, and will be doing the full diagnosis when I get home today. But it just baffles me as everybody else had this problem immediately after the swap. I've been good for a month+ until now.

Is it likely I just need a whole new distributor at this point?

I've reset the light. It goes away, and comes back on 15ish minutes later. So. No luck there.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I should also add the cel goes away on its own sometimes if the car is left off for a few minutes.

This is without disconnecting the battery, etc.

Still pops back on after fifteen ish minutes tho
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So my question now. I bought a new dizzy from AutoZone.

I have my own connectors for the dizzy with my dpfi to mpfi swap.

When wiring the new dizzy up, should all the wires be in the same placement on the new distributor? The colors are much different than the factory stock ones, and I just need to match them up.

Thought I did it right the first time, car won't start tho with the new dizzy. I'm guessing my wiring for the new one was wrong. Threw the old one back on to see if it would still start at least. And it does.
 

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'91 CRX DX, D15B (D15Z7), DX L3
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The issue with your first dizzy sounds like a thermal cycling issue, probably in the sensor coil. Everything expands as it heats up, though not at the same rates. There's a crack through one of the coil wires that only opens into a break after the body of the sensor expands and forces it open. Once the engine is off for a few minutes, the sensor cools down and shrinks that tiny bit, closes the gap and the sensor starts working again.
Take the cap off and ignition coil out of both dizzys, compare the wire colors coming out of each of the sensor pickup coils. Also make sure the sensor wheels have the same shape/position on the shaft - you never know what you're going to get from Auto Zone. It wouldn't hurt to try your old ignitor module and/or ignition coil in the new distributor.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The issue with your first dizzy sounds like a thermal cycling issue, probably in the sensor coil. Everything expands as it heats up, though not at the same rates. There's a crack through one of the coil wires that only opens into a break after the body of the sensor expands and forces it open. Once the engine is off for a few minutes, the sensor cools down and shrinks that tiny bit, closes the gap and the sensor starts working again.
Take the cap off and ignition coil out of both dizzys, compare the wire colors coming out of each of the sensor pickup coils. Also make sure the sensor wheels have the same shape/position on the shaft - you never know what you're going to get from Auto Zone. It wouldn't hurt to try your old ignitor module and/or ignition coil in the new distributor.
Wiring is ok. Put the new dizzy on. Cranks. Almost wants to start. But doesn't. Worked just fine with the old one. Is my ignition timing off, would that cause a no start? Everything else worked fine with the old dizzy minus the code 9 being on.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Is it possible my can/crank timing is off at the belt and that needs adjusted? Just seems weird since it works/worked absolutely fine minus the CEL if I throw on the old distributor, whereas the new dizzy wants to start. Cranks. Almost fires. But doesn't.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So I'm gonna check the mechanical timing today, get it at TDC and try reinstalling the di
new dizzy, again.

Just baffles me how it still runs with the old distributor. Would cam/crank timing really cause it not to start with the new one, but still work with the old distributor?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
135690


Got it at TDC I believe. Rotor is pointed in the right direction according to everything I've read. The number one spark plug that is.

Gonna reassemble and try and start.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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where is the spring that goes in that recess?
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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pretty sure you need it lol since it wont run without it. ask me how I know
 

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Discussion Starter #18
pretty sure you need it lol since it wont run without it. ask me how I know
Does your cap also have the little prongs that push in and have a spring like resistance to them? If so then I'll definitely look into finding that spring and seeing if that solves my issue.

If not, I'm guessing they just vary model to model, cause I don't remember, which I may be wrong, either the old working one or two new ones having it.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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that spring is what the coil uses to connect to the cap. its a spring to help it keep stay in contact with the contacts during vibrations.

all the coils Ive looked up have them
 

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Discussion Starter #20

  1. that spring is what the coil uses to connect to the cap. its a spring to help it keep stay in contact with the contacts during vibrations.

    all the coils Ive looked up have them
    I've confirmed my model does not use a spring.
 
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