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Discussion Starter #1
This Easter weekend, I'm going to be finally fabricating my headers and down pipe for my freshly rebuilt DSM turbo. Running a 12:1 FMU, MPFI swap with PM6 ECU, and an external wastegate with a 4 psi spring. I'm going to be running V Power BKR7E's with about 32 thousandths gap, and slightly retarded timing.

Now I have a couple of questions:
1) The block has 172k on it, so I'm planning on being gentle with the boost. With this setup, what are your opinions on the reliability?
2) I'm going to be using a sandwich plate, so what size restrictor would you guys recommend for the turbos feed line?

Best regards, Chris.
 

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D-series SoCal Division
93' dx hatchback
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659 Posts
FMUs are ancient technology (use turboedit)

4psi is a joke. Run that little turbo to 9 psi

I don't think DSMs use a restrictor.

NGK BKR7E is a good choice. That's what I run

I highly recommend a wideband o2 sensor when going turbo.
 

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Certified O.G.
A Shitbox
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5,605 Posts
FMU and reliability don't fall in the same category. Ever. Look into real tuning options if you want it to live longer than a half chub cream pie in your wranglers from the first spool.

If you don't want to make the OBD jump, there are plenty of tuning options for OBD0.

That is just the beginning, what AJAY said up there about sums it up.

Also, when he says he recommends a wideband O2 when going turbo, he means get one, without a doubt.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I already have a wideband with narrowband simulation setup, can't afford bigger injectors and getting a chip burner for an obd0 ECU is a b****. As for an FMU, they're ancient but they do their job. I rebuilt the one I have and bench tested it. Works as it would, and a plan on getting a walbro inline for my car also. As you guys said, 4 psi is not a joke when you're using a FMU as fuel management. I'll bump the boost when I tune the car.
 

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Certified O.G.
A Shitbox
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This guy is a troll everyone. Lol, you guys cant see it?
Come on Poppa Danz, You know how long I've been gone, I guess I lost my touch. Lol.
 

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D-series SoCal Division
93' dx hatchback
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659 Posts
There's been a lot of negatively here lately, it feels good to lend a helping hand.
 

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the artist formerly known as drexelstudent11
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3,983 Posts
8:1 is a better choice for only 4psi, 12:1 will be super rich

clock the dizzy back 2 degrees for extra safety margin on top too
 

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the artist formerly known as drexelstudent11
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oh, and you'll need either a missing link or zener diode to trick the stock map sensor too.

(just chip your ECU. it's way better)
 

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an FMU is shit for turbo. 4psi out of the turbo is not double what 2psi of boost would be, for example.

FMU's are generally only good for factory supercharged vehicles running a little smaller pulley

if you are too cheap to do it properly, do other things for performance.

bolting on a shorter geared transmission and going through the sensors and wiring to make sure everything is running good will work out for you better.
 

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It really sucks when your on a budget, I would save up and get bigger injectors and a tune. If your lucky you can find dsm 450cc injectors at the salvage yard. Is this is your only source of transportation? If so, I would just do the usual HEI upgrade and call it a day.
 

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intake on a d15b2 is useless

header on a d15b2 makes it slower

exhaust on a stock compression D15 is merely personal wants for sound.


Get it running as good as you can. a reliable engine that gets good gas mileage means you can save up on money and have more fun in a nearer future
 

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Civic and Accord
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225 Posts
The greddy turbo kits only add fuel (blue box) and do not retard timming. they have always worked, but a FMU will add fuel all over :( my advice is to get something that will adjust fuel for you at the right rpm/load. maybe something like the Apexi Neo from 2003 if your not willing to do it right with neptune/hondata
 

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ej8
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6,365 Posts
Get a chip ecu, bigger injectors and tune.
Then call it a day.

The fmu really dont work as people think they do.
They just up the fuel pressure and after to much fuel psi the injectors might not even open.
Its simply not worth the money. And your 4psi will probably feel like nothing since its a small amoubt of boost and will be overly rich.
 

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D-series SoCal Division
93' dx hatchback
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659 Posts
Spend the money now on the right bits, or spend double the money and time fixing what you thought was a good idea.

Take our advice, we speak from past experiences.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I'm going to throw a bleed valve on the FMU vac line so I can roughly adjust the fuel pressure that way too. We'll see how she performs.
 

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8:1 is a better choice for only 4psi, 12:1 will be super rich

clock the dizzy back 2 degrees for extra safety margin on top too
oh, and you'll need either a missing link or zener diode to trick the stock map sensor too.

(just chip your ECU. it's way better)
I'm going to run a check valve on the map sensor since it's on the firewall. You are the only one who gave an actual answer so I thank you for that. Like I posted above, I'm going to use a bleed valve / boost controller on the FMU with a check valve to control fuel on a raw form for now and just watch the boost and keep an eye on the wideband.

On another note, please be mindful that I am going to chip my ECU in the near future so it's not going to be stuck with an FMU forever. Thanks for not being assholes
 
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