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Discussion Starter #1
Now I know all you guys are going to be like Check your wiring..... Well HAHAHAHAHA Already did. And everything checks out. Now I got a problem. My car ideals fine, but it won't rev up past 3500 and it sounds like rev limiter. Now here is also another problem I have and need to fix my IACV is leaking a little (I can fix it I think) and my engine check light comes on. Okay so I checked the ECU it flashes a code 4 then a code 10 (the flashes are 1 second long) so can you guys tell me what my problem is? And I don't want to hear 'Check your wiring' I checked it a million time during and after the conversion and it checks out. So thank you guys for your help hopefully I can get my little care back to running normal
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
You can gladly come and check it cause to prove to you all that I did it right I wrote down what went to waht. Cause

A1 goes the the #1 injector (The one closest to the dizzy)
A3 went to the #2 Injector
A5 went to the #3 injector
A7 went to the #4 injector
I assume it is setup the #1 injector is the one closes to the dizzy and it goes 1 then 2 then 3 then 4.

C1 went to the Blue and Green wire on the dizzy
C2 well went to the Blue and Yellow one on the dizzy

and

B10 was the orange wire on the plug in for the dizzy and
B12 was the white wire next to the orange wire on the dizzy plug in

So tell me what did I do wrong? Cause that up there is how it is on my car.
Plus I never extended the IAT so it has to be right.
The only ones I had to extended were the TPS and IACV(Green plug in) so yeah... Also I looked up the codes myself and found what ther were but thank you all motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes Ryan(Captain Kanuckles) I hooked up the injector box, the red to the two yellow wires from the old injector then the ground wires to the 4 black wires. The dizzy... A jumper? I hard wire the C1 and C2's in place, but I used the old plug in from my other dizzy and transferred it over to my new dizzy one wire at a time so I could makes sure to wire it up correctly.
 

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Classic Man
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there are two white wires in the dizzy harness. look there.


funny side note; i did an MPFI conversion, couldnt rev over 4k... everyone said to check my wiring. turns out the ECU was chipped and it had a 2 step setup at 4k!! hahaha. free chipped ecu ftw.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
there are two white wires in the dizzy harness. look there.


funny side note; i did an MPFI conversion, couldnt rev over 4k... everyone said to check my wiring. turns out the ECU was chipped and it had a 2 step setup at 4k!! hahaha. free chipped ecu ftw.
Thats what I wonder about mine, how can I tell if mine is chipped? Also those two white wires you adn everyone speaks up, swapped them around last night and the car wouldn't start at all. Flipped them back around and the car started. So I think those two wire were correct the first time around.

Also I only got a code 4 now... So thats Crankpositions Sensor. IDGI the car rind fine up to the 3500 point then no more.

Also whats the likely hood of my car being out of time, cause before I did the swap my car rang perfectly fine, went all the way to redline and stuff no timing problem but now it does this could it be timing... I don't believe it would cause how can a car just lose timing?
 

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wheres my money man!!
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that ecu is not chipped man lol if it was it would have ran like shit in my car before i sold it to you. plus like i said its the dizzy from my car when i went obd1.

it has to be something so stupid your overloking it.

firing order might be wrong timing might be off.

what was wrong with the car before?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It ran, thats what was wrong, it ran perfectly fine..... But nce I convert to MPFI it goes to hell but are the B10 and B12 wires to that crank sensor? Or is it the C's?
 

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A1 goes the the #1 injector (The one closest to the dizzy)
A3 went to the #2 Injector
A5 went to the #3 injector
A7 went to the #4 injector
I assume it is setup the #1 injector is the one closes to the dizzy and it goes 1 then 2 then 3 then 4.
Injector 1 is for cylinder 1, farthest from the diz, #4 is closest to the diz
 

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Classic Man
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to check if the ECU is chipped just take the cover off. its 4 phillips screws. if you see a ZIF socket or anything that looks removable its chipped.

it could be a HF ecu with low red line?
 

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did you mix up the IAT plug with another one cuz they look the same? I don't remember what the other plug went to. Try switching that. I was helping my old friend trouble shoot his mpfi conversion and his did the same thing and it was a switched IAT plug.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Well if my injectors were say reversed could that be the problem? Like 4 is 1 3 is 2 2 is 3 and 1 is 4 would that idle but not run right? Plus... Well wait a minute the wiring diagram I got shows that my wiring is right cause I used it to wire




By that diaghram is the way I wired it, or did they jsut draw it up, but I need to switch plugs around? (Well pins) also the only code it is throwing is the #4... SO I am going to just depin it, use new pins on it and then go from there, hope to get that problem out of the way.
 

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Sounds like your IACV is causing the problem. I finished a swap the other day changing a 87 civic from vacumn advance to electrical advance and i didnt have the IACV hooked yet when I started it. Until I wired the IACV up the engine wouldnt rev over 3k. Just a thought, you did say your IACV was bad.
 
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