Honda D Series Forum banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts
D

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have read several writeups elsewhere and I am looking for stuff in the archive but what I am looking for here is what you would have done different, Ideas you might have, problems you experienced, and advice on how big a battery I can trow in there. I am not the stereo type but I am dying for some obnoxious rally lights. Not that I have any bad feelings or intentions towards those benighted folks who drive those slow lumbering beasts that seem to block lanes and to never have their headlights alighned.....;) but I also have plans for that space where the battery is. I would also like to relocate the fuse box but I'm still thinking about that...ideas.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,363 Posts
i don't know offhand how many amps a battery will draw for a startup, but I'd make sure to use some heavy gauge cable... maybe some heavy gauge speaker cable. Another thing to watch out for is your current wiring for speakers. I don't know if induction is going to cause noise through your audio. If you're running it under the car, the insulation better be thick and heavy duty so you don't get any frays or water leaking leading to corrosion. Most people who move the battery, move it to a spot under the seat, closer to the center of gravity. Might want to search for that instead.

I thought that once the car was started the battery isn't really used... I thought the car gets all its running power through the alternator. Your lights wouldn't be on when you start the car, unlike an amplifier, so the battery is not an issue. I could be wrong though. If what i said is the case, you could opt for one of those tiny batteries and leave it in the engine bay assuming it gives you enough room for whatever you're doing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
500 Posts
makku said:
I thought that once the car was started the battery isn't really used... I thought the car gets all its running power through the alternator. Your lights wouldn't be on when you start the car, unlike an amplifier, so the battery is not an issue. I could be wrong though. If what i said is the case, you could opt for one of those tiny batteries and leave it in the engine bay assuming it gives you enough room for whatever you're doing.
the alternator charges the battery... but everything still runs off the battery. Not only that, the battery only charges if the vehicle is moving, but only sustains itself if your just idling.

thats why you cant jump a car by swiping a battery out with your buddies car and then switch it back again once you get the beast going... which i always thought would be a cool thing.

on a side note, yesterday at work i saw some rice boy try to boost his car with another friend, i walked over and asked if it was a manual and he said yes, so i told him "why dont u just push the car and start it in first gear while its rolling" and hes like "go fuckyourself you dont know what your talking about"

meh...
 
D

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
7thGear said:
on a side note, yesterday at work i saw some rice boy try to boost his car with another friend, i walked over and asked if it was a manual and he said yes, so i told him "why dont u just push the car and start it in first gear while its rolling" and hes like "go fuckyourself you dont know what your talking about"

meh...
The batery is going in the back to improve weight distribution. its going on the passenger side for driver compensation. Our cars are way way too front heavy and the battery is light enough to be used for compensation without a significant shift in the roll center. It is also far safer back there in a welded enclosure than spewing H2 in the passenger compartment with all its open electronics. Oh, the car stalls when you take the battery out because doing so leaves an open circuit.
The ignorance so prevalent out there never ceases to amaze me. The horrid and continued deterioration of manners, that's another thing altogether. Then again, this is the world that spawned girlieracer702 gggggrrrrrrrrr!!!!

Now, how big of a battery can I get away with with the stock alternator?
 

·
Premium Member
95 CX Hatch
Joined
·
5,910 Posts
You can use as big of a battery and as many cranking amps as you like. Your current and amp draw will remain the same provided you dont overload it with amps, power inverters, tv's etc lol just keep it 12volts. If you do use a conventional sealed "no service" type battery be sure to properly vent it through the floorboard. Back in my days of high figh stereo comps I used Gell Cell batteries up to 4 at a time! Mount it secure and vent it or go Gell Cell. They can even be mounted sideways or upside down.

For Cabling I always used noting less than 4 guage high strand count cable. I recommend Tsunami wire or Stinger. You can pick any ground point in the rear all you need to do is run a power cable. Keep it clear of any sharp sheetmetal and theres a fairly easy acess hole in the firewall slightly below and to the right (facing the firewall) of the stock battery tray. Pop out the plug and route it through the firewall, under the a/c evaporator housing and under the carpet along the running board to the trunk. Get some "dum-dum" and seal the hole to prevent any waterleaks. Thats it nothing to it really.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
500 Posts
well if you dont want to put it under the seat dont, but what i'm trying to say is dont put it anywhere past the rear axles, then your just relocating the problem from one area to another :)

what car do u have again?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
320 Posts
i used double ott welding wire... for my cables... and its right after the drop for the spare tire and i have an optima gel cell... and an emerg cut off in the tunk. and its in a box also...for the whine factor...
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top