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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
for some reason the 3rd cylinder will not fire when i pulled out the plug it fired fine i knew it would plugs and wires are brand new, but when the car is running you can pull that 3rd wire off and it makes no difference in how the car runs so i know its that cylinder but its got fire, valves are not stuck its dual point injection so cant be and injector
 

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you do a compression test? maybe an injector is stuck open? what does the spark plug look like in that cylinder?try those things and maybe someone has another idea..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i did a ghetto comp test and its got compression its got fire, the plug comes out wet with gas, anyone got any other ideas i just need it to run for 3 more weeks then im swapping
 

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the plug is wet with gas?? ill tell you what... take a long screwdriver and place the tip on the injector while its running.. you should hear clicking and it should get faster when you rev it up... now if there is no clicking then the injector is bad or not getting power.. they sell a noid light it goes into the injector plug and should light up , if it does and the injector is not clicking then theres your problem...

or you can simply swap the injector from the bad cyl to a good one.. like swap injectors from cyl 1 and 3... if the bad cylinder moves from 3 to 1 then you know its your injector...


or say if its a spark issue.. take out the plug wire to the bad cyl..place a screwdriver into the wire and place the metal of the screwdriver about 1/8" from the cyl head.. turn the car on and if you see spark then its good if not then there is your problem...

im leaning toward the injector cause you said you relaced some ignition parts...


what were your compression numbers? what do you mean ghetto compression test?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
it cant be the injector because on dpfi there is only two injectors and they are in the throttle body i checked compression by pulling the plug on that cylinder and putting the wire in the hole and bumping over the car, blows the wire straight up to the hood is it possible i lost that cylinder
 

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the hard-parker
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if you really are getting compression, then it's not likely you lost your cylinder. the thing is, your plug came out wet with gas. that means that either your cylinder is being flooded with gas, or your spark plug is not firing. you said your spark plug was firing. i would say check the injectors just to be safe, or the routing of the fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ive had 5 people look at this car about this problem and everyone says the same thing, its either fuel spark or air in that cylinder, but its got all that, is it possible that the combustion chamber is cracked somewhere and gas is escaping if so where could i look to see this
 

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if the spark plug is wet with fuel, AND it doesn't change the engine idle when you pull the plug wire, then something is wrong with the spark.

You said you're getting spark... maybe you put in a bad spark plug? Also, let it dry out a little... having all that fuel in there is not good for your cylinder walls. It will wash all the oil away.
 

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dank91 said:
it cant be the injector because on dpfi there is only two injectors and they are in the throttle body
would have been nice to know this before hand...



your on the right track fuel, spark and compression... thats what you need.. good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #10
makku said:
if the spark plug is wet with fuel, AND it doesn't change the engine idle when you pull the plug wire, then something is wrong with the spark.

thats what i thought but you can tell that its sparking inside the engine because if you pull the wire up just enough then you can hear the spark jumping but still no change in idle ive gone over everything and havnt found anything, i even went out and drove it hoping that it would miraculously fix itself, no, just throws little flames out the mufflers and runs like shit
 
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it is a possibility that even though it is sparking, its not sparking at the plug tips, the voltage is being diverted away to another spot and not igniting the fuel/air mixture. ( possibly very small cracks in the ceramic insulator of the spark plugs) change that plug with one from say cylinder #1 and see what happens.




-Juan
 

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ok, only other thing I can think of is that your intake valves are stuck. The cylinder would still blow air through the spark plug hole in your ghetto compression test because it's could still get air backfilled through the exhaust ports to some small extent and through the weak seal you made with your plug wires. But that would mean your cam would have no lobes left on the intake side for an effect that dramatic. A quick check under the valve cover would tell you for sure.

^^^ what this guy said could be true too.
 
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I agree with the above post as well, at this point you should invest in a pro compression test. Also have you tested the voltage, perhaps the spark is too weak to detonate the charge. Remeber is should be around 35K volts. You mentioned you replaced the ignition wires and plugs how about the distributor cap? Contact for #3 cylinder might be worn down.


my .02

-Juan

P.S. let me know how it turns out very curious to see what is the culprit...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
i checked the valves they are not stuck, i physically took off the the valve cove looked at the cam rockers and valves, bumped the ignition, everything working fine, changed around plugs and wires still same cylinder, changed distributor cap and rotor, still the same cylinder wont fire
 

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Discussion Starter #15
i apreciate all the help, if anyone can think of any other reason one cylinder wont fire PLEASE let me know, im dying to drive my ride
 
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this is a long shot,since you said the plugs where soaked with gas when you checked them on #3, but the chamber could be fouled with carbon deposits. Might be worth is to invest in a 5$ can and remove some of the carbon from the combustion chambers, If i remeber correctdly you take all the plugs out and spray into each plug hole a decent amount wait like and hour, then spray again lightly, then reinsert all plugs and fire it up, this should burn off all the carbon (the firstcould of minutes the car will run rough since your burning all the carbon, but then it should settle down)



besides that air is reaching the chamber since you verified both the intake and exhaust valves, there is definately fuel, and spark. You sure your are getting decent compression numbers on that cylinder?


p.s. just a thought that came up perhaps the header is clogged some how down the #3 primary might be worth an inspection


-Juan
 

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Discussion Starter #17
jclanza said:
p.s. just a thought that came up perhaps the header is clogged some how down the #3 primary might be worth an inspection


-Juan

never thought of that but i have been hearing a funny noise from the the front side of the engine so it might be the headers, what kind of spray are you talking about to clean the carbon out of the chamber???
 
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chrysler (mopar) sells a decarbonizing spray that you can purchase and use on your vehicle. I removes like ~90% of the build up without having to take the head off and manually remove the carbon....


the below link has the procedure to do it with a GM sourced cleaner but they are all basically the same stuff

http://www.motorminute.com/Service/CarbonRemoval.pdf

but yeah if you are hearing noise from the front of the engine compartment definately check the header /exhuast manifold for restrictions

-juan
 

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Discussion Starter #19
i went to the parts store and they dont have any kind of carbon cleaner where would i get it, i just need to get to and from work until my ZC arives and gets swapped anyone know whats going to happen if i run on three cylinders for a couple weeks
 

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dank91 said:
i went to the parts store and they dont have any kind of carbon cleaner where would i get it, i just need to get to and from work until my ZC arives and gets swapped anyone know whats going to happen if i run on three cylinders for a couple weeks

You could get away with running on 3 for a little while. It won't kill it, I think you have a burned valve, but you'll never know until you do a compression check (a real one) and then a leak down test. The DPFI D-15 engines are pretty notorious for smoking valves and still being able to run a little at higher RPM. Rig up a ghetto leak down tester by 1. putting the bad cylinder on TDC of comp stroke 2. find a way to seal up a can of "air in a can" (if you don't have access to an air compressor) into the spark plug hole. 3. blow into the hole and listen at the throttle body and the tailpipe for leaks.
 
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