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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I have searched, and read all hangover day today, and I keep finding conflicting info about this swap. I want to know the hard facts form the D experts here.

Little background info: My GF comes to my place last week and complains her 94 Civic EX coupe is making noise. Oh great she broke something else, and I am her designated mechanic lol. Anyways I hear a sort of rattling noise coming from under the front of the car. So I check the oil. There was none left! I told her to check that stuff. So I'm pretty sure she cooked the bearings, its not bad yet but may be soon.

Anyways I have a D15B7 sitting in my garage not doing anything. My plan is to drop her Vtec head on and pop it in there. Conveniently both engines have 190K miles on them.

Few questions tho.

-Head bolts reuseable or not? Some write-ups on Honda-tech say yes, others say that they are torque-to-yield so no.
-What exact compression ratio am I going to end up with? Nobody seems to know for sure.
-Lose or gain power over stock Z6? GF doesn't want to lose power lol.
-Should I tune this setup? Or can I just run the stock P28 and set static ignition timing to compensate for the bump in compression?

We are doing this setup because she has limited funds, being in grad school and all.
 

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S

-Head bolts reuseable or not? Some write-ups on Honda-tech say yes, others say that they are torque-to-yield so no.

no dice get ARPs

-What exact compression ratio am I going to end up with? Nobody seems to know for sure.

Honda D-Series Compression Calculator by ZealAutowerks

Compression Calculator


-Lose or gain power over stock Z6? GF doesn't want to lose power lol.

If it's tuned definetly, but yeah a little. Better R/S and compression

-Should I tune this setup? Or can I just run the stock P28 and set static ignition timing to compensate for the bump in compression?

Exactly, but I'd tune and just DIY for something like this. The first time I tuned anything with a butt dyno was the same setup
 

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68 Camaro
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a 1.6 head on a 1.6 block. logic dictates your compression will drop.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the info 91Si, I did tell her to expect to pop for head studs

The compression calculator brings up another question.

Do I have to use the Z6 or Y8 HG like everyone says, or can I use a B7 gasket for near-stock comp ratio.

Z6 HG = 10.1 to 1 ratio
B7 HG = 9.8 to 1 ratio

Sorry about the noobish questions guys, I have never messed with the d's before.
 

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you definatly dont need arp head studs for a mini-me setup. and yes you can reuse the head bolts the originals were not tty but the replacements from honda are tty ive reused head bolt many times and have never had any problem and its not like you building some crazy d and it will need tuned to run correctly and also your gonna need a y7/y8 cam gear. but after all that if she ran the z6 out of oil and spun a bearing you better tear that head completly down and check for any damage on the cam and rocker shafts due to lack of oil
 

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Red EG
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you definatly dont need arp head studs for a mini-me setup. and yes you can reuse the head bolts the originals were not tty but the replacements from honda are tty ive reused head bolt many times and have never had any problem and its not like you building some crazy d and it will need tuned to run correctly and also your gonna need a y7/y8 cam gear. but after all that if she ran the z6 out of oil and spun a bearing you better tear that head completly down and check for any damage on the cam and rocker shafts due to lack of oil
Yeah, I have to agree. Reuse the head studs, but I'd swap the d15 in and rebuild the d16. don't do a mini-me. that whole d16 is going to need checking out and.or work done.
 

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I've never heard so much love for reuse of headstuds.
why would the op need to spend a 120 on a set of arp head studs for a simple mini-me that more then likly will only be in the car for a short period of time cause its already got 190k on the bottom end and probably will burn oil and smoke due to bad rings. wait maybe its because stock head bolts wont seal that massive 10:1 comp engine haha
 

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I would hate to see an issue from a stretched bolt. You can also get a set for like 30bux that is like OEM and not ARP.
well if your any type of a mechanic you'd feel a head bolt stretch when your tightening it well befor any running issue. but ive reused a set of stock head bolts probably 5 or 6 times and never had one stretch
 

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well if your any type of a mechanic you'd feel a head bolt stretch when your tightening it well befor any running issue. but ive reused a set of stock head bolts probably 5 or 6 times and never had one stretch
First hand experience is best so I give it to you. You'ce convinced me to reuse mine on a lower compression setup.
 

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hey man I agree u should spend the little extra money on the ARPs and u really don't need a tune a p28 with a chip and a base map will run it just fine...... at least me and my buddy aren't having a problem
 

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could chance reusing them or just go get new oem ones if they are cheap enough

looks to be a full 1 point bump on compression

might need a y-series cam gear to correct timing

should be around the same or might lose a little depending on how much you pull down the static timing.

best bet would get your hands on a wideband and set it the best you can without actually chipping the ecu

hope that helps
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well the D15 has a bad HG, thats the reason for the mini-me. Had great compression in all cylinders before I pulled it from my DX. Was only leaking water in cyl #1, and nowhere else.

Her engine is still running fine, just rattling a bit from the bottom end. This is our contingency plan if it does die.

So I'm fine to reuse stock headbolts? A Honda set is about 7-9 bucks a bolt, and I'm not sure if I can trust aftermarket ones besides ARP.
 
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