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Discussion Starter #1
Alright i just rebuilt my 00 d16y7 block and placed a d16y8 on it.Now i was wondering whats a safe nitrous setup to run ill be throwing a blockguard on and getting a tune as soon as i get the kit just wondering what the highest safest jet size would be on a wet kit.Thanks in advance for any help.
 

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I like to mouth off
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how much do you wanna spray... i wouldn't go over 50-55 on a stock engine... but i don't know if you have any internal work done
 

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Discussion Starter #3
well i was hopin a lil more than that a friend of mine ran a 100 shot wet kit tuned on his stock hx and this guy was NOS happy believe me and his engine never blew he just went threw trannys like crazy
 

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50-55 xtra hp feels like alot when it comes on all at once, You'd probably be happy with that for now. By the time you want faster you'll have enough saved for a turbo:bravo:
 

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I like to mouth off
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do you want to build your car for spray or just use spray till you get a turbo.... that will determine what you want to buy and how much money your going to spend..... and if you've never used nos before your going to want to start out with a small shot and build up to bigger... i had a bud that never used a car with nos and he build up his car and put a 120 shot through it....needless to say he wasn't ready for the kick in it and he wrecked as soon as the steering wheel jerked from the power... but if your going turbo.... save your money... im sure you can handle being slow for a while till the boost influences your life
 

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I'd second the start with small jet and work your way up for the previous reason and for tuning if you're not familiar with it.
 

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Just like stated above, start with the smallest shot the kit has and work your way up for both tuning and learning how to drive it. By the way, you are going to need rods and pistons wayyy before you need a block gaurd. ARP headstuds aren't a bad idea either. Make sure you are not burning any oil or coolant and that you have good compression before you spray also.
 

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I like to mouth off
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Just like stated above, start with the smallest shot the kit has and work your way up for both tuning and learning how to drive it. By the way, you are going to need rods and pistons wayyy before you need a block gaurd. ARP headstuds aren't a bad idea either. Make sure you are not burning any oil or coolant and that you have good compression before you spray also.

:werd:
 

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My 91 Crx Hf
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hell, if you have bolt-on's a 35 shot would be nice and not take as much tuning. Great thing about nitrous is the torque increase, a 35shot would give you about as much hp as a b16, but with the torque of a ls.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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Stock tune, 75-100 shot WET, pull 4 degrees of timing IF OBD-2 ECU will hold that setting!!!!!!

BIG FUCKING IF = GOODBYE PISTONS!

Upgraded fuel pump, R5671-7 or 8 plugs gapped at .028-.032"

But you have to start with 50 shot and work your way up, reading plugs at each set and TAKING ALOT OF NOTES!!!!!!!!!!!

Even after offseason/winter I would still go back to my lowest ZEX 55 shotsetup then work back up to 75 shot. This will take atleast 3/4 bottle, top the bottle off and then start playing with my 85 shot setup.

I was running a dry ZEX kit, but the same basics apply. Get greedy and you'll melt stuff. I went easy and STILL melted a piston as dry kit plus stock injectors and 75 shot doesn't add enough fuel.

13.09 @ 103, next pass it melted #3 piston, that is tuning on the edge.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for all the advise, i am not planning to ever go boost seen to many weekly problems in my friend and i just love the instant torque of nitrous.And i do have forged rods and arp head studs.Well i just got a zex wet smart kit and will be starting at the smallest jet and working up. Thanks and ill keep you posted on my problems and success
 

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You'll do fine if you start small and work your way up, esp if you use a wideband to see how it's changing fuel needs. IMO its the bottom of your motor that will give you issues. All the 95- 1.6L cranks are crossrilled very well, but the Y7 cranks only have 1 oil hole per rod, fed by only 1 oil hole per main. You get decent oiling at TDC when the piston is pushing down, but everywhere else, oiling sucks. Just don't engine brake much, I feel that's what causes most Y7/Y8 bearings to be eaten.
 
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