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9 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone i have D15B7 i want to build a mini me, auto tranny for now it needs to be replaced so i am going to put a 5 speed in, my question is what head should i use what parts i should keep what ecu?
dont know much about D-series engines this is the first one ive gotten my hands on so any help and advice is extremely valued , thank you :)

1992 honda civic
327 Posts
i used a y8 head, the b7 dizzy and intake manifold and a z6 timing belt, with a p28 ecu

most of the ones i've seen use a z6 head/dizzy/intake mani

9 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
ok, what tranny should i get, if there is a possible 6sp out there id love to know about it, i basicaly just a want a fun toy but i want it to last and not blow the cam at 4500 like my k20

527 Posts
y8 head would be easy since you can use your current distributor as far as head bolts you need 9 b7 and 1 y8/y7 in the corner by the vtec solenoid
swap your b7 cam gear onto the y8 cam so you can run a stock p28 ecu (correct me if im wrong)
the timing belt i always use is a d15z1 civic vx
get some 2000 civic si ngk v power plugs
a y8 or z6 intake manifold
and wire up the vtec

9 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
would you guys recomend ITB's? never used em before so idk how you'd go about doing that, was going to do it on my k20 till the cam went threw the valve cover

550 Posts
seriously best advice i can give you is SEARCH. there is a lot of wrong info on how to do this build so read more and learn everything you can. this helps you avoid dumping money on stuff you dont need.

85 Posts
I've been wanting to do the same build but I'm just not to sure how reliable it is. I would like for it to last quite a while. I guess I will just keep reading up and searching till I'm comfortable with it. This helps a lot.

Premium Member
theft repo sol
356 Posts
1. d15b7 w a Y8 head...
- purchase a 92-95 civic haynes manuel (it will be referred as H.M. for the sake of space).
- purchase a d15b7 long/short block.
- purchase a d16y8 head.
- a z6 water pump to thermostat coolant passage, (the B7 has an extra outlet that is no longer needed), and a z6 intake manifold (intake manifolds are dependent on the transaxle type of your vehicle so be sure its either an auto or five speed) and a d15b7 distributor. (TD-41U)
-purchase a z6/y8 timing belt (104 teeth).
NOTE this is a good time to replace water pump, water pump gasket and tensioner. (use b7 water pump and a z6 tensioner).
- purchase copper spray, wd-40, pb blaster, antifreeze 50/50, oil and filter.
- NOTE: all new gaskests must be coated with copper spray before installation (except for rubber gaskets). copper spray helps the new gasket adhere, seal and fill any inperfections allowing a perfect seal everytime.

2. Send head to the machine shop to ensure quality of the build.
- replace the y8 cam gear with the b7 cam gear.
- Tank the head
- have the head pressure checked and checked for warpage.
- Have a three angle valve job performed.
- Have the guides replaced
- Have the seals replaced
- have head set to tdc
- Check valves for signs of excessive wear
- Mill the head OPTIONAL ( this procedure removes a thin layer of metal from the bottom of the head decreasing piston to deck height and the size of the combustion chamber, thus bumping the compression. be careful and do your
homework before attempting this. this site will help you determine combustion ratio
(Honda D-Series Compression Calculator by ZealAutowerks). just input all the required info into the appropriate feilds. ok after you've inserted the appropriate info into the feilds look for a field that asks "Enter total amount head has been milled and block decked" this amount will be in thousands of an inch. after entering the info in check at the bottom of the page for a feild that shows "Piston-to-Deck Height" if this is in the negative you'll have to adjust your number until it is 0+.
3. check block for warpage
- use a die grinder and roloc stripping disc to remove old gasket material from the deck.
- use a true flat edge and feeler gauges to check for warpage. the tolerance limits will be provided via H M. if you do not have the manuel for your vehicle purchase it now before proceeding.
- ream them with the old head bolt holes to remove any debris (note only use old bolts and tighten by hand to prevent them from breaking).

4. ECU and wiring harness
- locate a OBD1 SOHC VTEC automatic/5 speed wiring harness. this harness will connect directly to the jumpers found at the passenger side strut tower and the driverside fire wall near the fender.
- locate perferably a virgin P28 ECU. this ecu will connect directly to the jumper.
5. head bolts/studs, cam gear and gaskets
- for the D15b7/y8 head build all you'll need is either 9 stock z6 headbolts and one y8 headbolt from honda.
!IMPORTANT! do not reuse the old headbolts because they are tourque to yeild and will give faulty tourque readings, possibly break when reinstalling, and result in catastrophic failure.
- ARP head studs are the best replacement performance alternative for the "tuner" becase they are made of case hardened steel and can be reused indeffinantly. the headstuds also make installation easier because they stick out of the bolck alowing easier alignment of the head gasket and the head (no guess work).
-headgasket- Ebay has been a bitter sweet relationship for me but when it comes to a head gasket use OEM (honda) or an equivalent from a local autoparts store. there are two available 1. the d16z6 which is .037" in thickness or 2.
the d16y8 which is ~.027" in thickness and will allow a slight bump in compression. once again insert this headgasket info into the compression calculator by "Zealworks" and ensure its compatibility.
- a new intake manifold gasket will be needed.
- a new throttle body gasket will be needed.


A. the motor is still in the vehicle- (the following proceedures are all in the H.M. for your vehicle and thus i will paraphrase).
- unhook the negative from battery
- jack diver side of the vehicle refer to H.M. for instructions.
- place jack stand under subframe.
- set the vehicles to tdc
- drain coolant and oil.
- remove air intake.
- remove power steering pump, p.s. pump reservoir, p.s. pump bracket, and p.s. belt,
-air conditioning belt and tensioner bracket. use a zip tie to move the p.s. pump and attachments to the side. As they tend to fall in the way ALOT! remove the alternator belt.
- remove exhaust manifold.
- disconnect all coolant lines from the therrmostat to head and throttle body (label if needed).
- disconnect all sensors from the head (if this is your first time use masking tape to indicate which sensor goes to which plug. EX. male connector one goes to female connetor 1. this will eliminate stress and mistakes.)
- disconnect the fuel line from the fuel filter.
- disconnect the fuel return line from fuel rail.
- disconnect throttle body cable, and if its an auto remove the kick back cable.
- disconnect the pcv vacuum line from the intake manifold.
- disconnect the brake booster from the intake manifold.
- dissconnect any grounds connected to the valve cover.
- remove valve cover.
- remove the upper and lower timing belt cover.
- remove b7 timing belt.
- follow the procedure in the H.M. for removing head bolts. yes there is a specific the head on a piece of carboard to prevent any damage to the mating surface and the cardboard soaks up leaking fluids. if this proceedure isnt followed correctly you could damage mating surface/warp the head that can be sold upon your mini me completion.
- once the head bolts are removed, screw a power steering bracket bolt into the hole at the front top right of the head. then grip that bolt and the intake manifold. pull up if the head resists hit it with a rubber mallet a couple of times then try again sometimes they stick (whilst removal feel for tension b/c something could still be attached to the firewall/motor.label and remove any clingers.
- clean the blocks deck surface using a die grinder.
- remove the thermostat housing and remove long coolant tube leading from the back of water pump housing to the thermostat housing and replce with the z6 coolant passage. if a z6 coolant passage is not available block the coolant passage closest to the water pump.
- dissconnect the labled d15b7 wiring harness and replace with the z6(vtec) wiring harness (use the labeled b7 harness for reference).
- remove the gasket refuse from the z6 intake manifold with the die grinder.
- install new intake manifold gasket onto new head. then attach the z6 intake manifold (use the tourque specs provided via the H.M. or the intake manifold studs could be stripped out of the head).
- remove the throttle body from the b7 intake manifold and remove gasket material. then remove the gasket material from the z6 intake manifold. install throttle body gasket onto the z6 intake manifold studs and mate the throttle
body using tourque spec tightening provided via the can also use a z6 throttle body.
- behind the rear middle headbolt/stud there is an oil jet. use a screw and drive it into the oil jet. then remove it. if you do not remove this oil jet then vtec will not engage. also if the oil jets left in, it causes an oil pressure spike, possibly harming the block, oil pump or head.
--ARP-- at this time if you have ARP head studs install them now (ARP studs come with instructions and tourque specs).the y8 head bolt will be installed in the hole where the vtec solenoid is located
--ARP-- line the gasket up and lay onto block, then lay the head on, install washers and hand tighten bolts (use
haynes manuel instructions for tightening sequence and there will be an extra step tourqueing them to ARP spec included in the instructions).
- NON ARP--if not prep your head gasket and line it up. dont worry it only goes on one way so line it up.
- insert your head bolt into the new head, remember the y8 head bolt goes into the hole at the vtec solenoid and do your best to line everyting up on the first try.
- start the head bolts by hand until they meet the surface of the head. then follow the H.M. tightening sequence it should be a three step process. use the z6 specs.
- - NOTE-follow tourque specs for all reattachment procedures
- reattach sensors and coolant lines.
- replace the water pump, timing belt, and tensioner with parts reffered to at the beginning of this article the H.M. will explain this process.
- at this point you may want to fill the block with water to ensure the water pump is properly sealed. then drain fluids.
- reattach the timing cover. however i couldnt get either the b7 or z6 upper cover to reattach at this point. dont worry the car runs fine without it.
-reattach all manifolds and accessories in reverse order. be sure to follow tourque specs in H.M.
- attach the d15b7 distributor. it keys only one way thus the rotor will be pointing at number one. (if the wires are not installed correctly there could be a back fire and it could result in detrimental complications.)
- perform a valve lash adjustment at this time (it is explained in chapter one of the H.M.)
- refill fluids oil and coolant.
- reattach the negative to battery.
- run the vehicle with radiator cap off until thermostat opens or until radiator fan turns on. replace coolant as needed. at this point i had to find the proper cam timing because the car was running retarded and pepped up when i
advanced the timing via the distributor. if this is the case in your situation bump the timing belt advanced one tooth. this solved all my timing issues. ill post a pic of tdc on my running d15y8 mini me.
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