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Civic and sierra
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I have a 97 civic with a d16y8 and 304,000 miles and I plan to rebuild the engine. I was hoping to get some help and opinions before I tear into it. I'm staying NA and I'm not changing my mind. Hp isn't really the goal just want a fun, peppy daily driver. Currently I'm wanting somewhere from 11-12:1 compression and I'm torn between two options. Mill the head .060 ($50 at local shop), or use a d17 crank and deck the block .030 and mill the head a bit (roughly $200).
My current mods are
4-2-1 header 2.25 exhaust
Cai
92 tune
Crower stage 1 cam
10lb flywheel
Also looking for an edelbrock intake

Anyone want to chime in with their thoughts? Also will I have problems with milling .060 if I go that route? Searching I found that there's a limit before timing belt and ptv issues but I could really find a diffinitive answer. And does anyone know if there's ptv issues with a d17 crank and pistons and the block decked .030? Probably use a two layer gasket either way. Any help is appreciated
 

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92dx-turbo 92cx-pimp
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find a d15 block and slap a ycp/vitara rebuild kit in it make a mini-me with that head.
or do a ycp/vitara rebuild on the block and new valvesprings Real St. has good deals on drivetrain parts id stay away from supertech thothere products seem to be hit or miss these days. if you plan on staying in the gains of stock OE rebuild parts search the forum for what other people have done you dont always have to mill and deck to achieve a higher compression
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Mind me asking why you say go with a d15? I come from small block chevys and most of the time bigger=better. I picked up a complete d17 for $100 today. I figure after selling the head, intake, block, etc I'll have everything for the stroker basically free. So I was leaning towards that route.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
As much as a turbo would be I'm scared to blow it up. I've had zero experience with them and have several friends that have tried and failed to boost cars. NA is just more comfortable to me. I'll read up on the mini me swap. But unless I'm missing something I should have everything for a very straight forward stroker swap. I'm running d17 rods, pistons, crank, oil pump, and valve cover/dip stick. Then have my d16 pulley and timing gear bored to the crank size. Clearance the girdle and everything should drop in easy and work fine. Also I'll zero deck the block which should give 11.0:1 compression. If I want more I'll just shave the head a bit too. I just like the broad torque curve of the stroker. I found a dyno from a guy with a similar stroker made 120ftlb or more from 2200 rpm to 6500rpm on a stock cam.
 

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if you want a mild performance boost, do a factory rebuild, with exception of choosing D16A6 pistons.

you will go from factory 9.6:1 to roughly 10.35:1 compression.

No need to slice the d16y8 head, it already has the smallest D series combustion chamber. Leave yourself the wiggle room for down the road when you may choose to add more compression.

the nice thing is if you stick with 89 octane or higher, the stock ecu will run fantastic with the near 1 point bump in compression.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I thought about just doing pistons. But I can mill it cheaper. And now I've got the d17. Worst case if I ever need to lower compression I just swap pistons or get a thicker gasket. I can get machine work done pretty cheap. Also have the crower cam and a chipped ecu so I can get it tuned however I set it up
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Also the biggest chunk is off the block. The block with .030 deck and a 2 layer gasket is about 11:1. I'd only do the head if I needed more. Doubt I really need it with the stage 1 cam though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Anyone know the minimum piston to head clearance? Need to know before I deck it. Unless someone knows otherwise I'm going with .030
 

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Hello, i have some of the modifications you want to install.

On my 1999 acura EL D16y8 with 280,000 (doesnt burn a drop of oil). I have a Dc header which 4-2-1 with a 2 inch collector with a 2 inch catalytic converter going into a 2.25 yonaka catback exhaust (yonaka catback was very cheap and sounds good $200) . I also have a Edelbrock intake manifold ( x runner since the drag racing one does not result in power until 6000rpms) and a aem cold air intake.

Every FWD car I have owned has greatly benefited from a well tunes suspension to prevent the bum from dropping with each gear. Eliminated wheel hop/spin drastically.

At about 3500 you can feel the power band begin and at 4500-6000 it actully pulls nicely. I still need a tune for the car, emission regulations have become very strict in Ontario so I am scared to do it. I think with all these modifications you have mentioned, the tune that goes with it is the most important. A cheap or improper tune can make or break the performance in the car. Prior experience with volkswagens, tunes were everything when modifying anything.

If you are looking for durability as I did with my car, careful with milling etc. I know I will get torn apart for saying it but the longblock of the d16y8 was engineered to last. Doing the internals and upping compression will only shorten the lifespan. All that money going into a D16 you could probably have a different car with more reliable hp.

Goodluck! I am curious how it turns out! I have no regrets with the modifications I have!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for your input. It's sounds like a fun car to drive. I'm planning to do a little suspension work and I'm looking at progress group coil overs. I know I can get a lot more from another car I've got a 07 rcsb for when I want to go fast. I'm really just wanting something fun to drive that gets 30mpg. Well that and I can't ever leave anything alone. I understand the importance of tuning (I use hptuners on my truck) and my car already has full exhaust and cai and is base mapped for it. I'm just looking for more. I agree these cars where built for longevity and everything is a compromise But I don't think I'll loose any major life from what I'm doing. Currently I'm trying to get all the parts I need together. She goes to the machine shop late next week! Currently it's getting the 1.7 crank, decked .030, head hand ported, and a 3 angle valve job. Should have great torque when it's done and that's what I'm wanting.
 
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