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Discussion Starter #1
i ended up purchasing a AEM EPM to run as a cam trigger. This was easily installed onto the megasquirt directly using no filter circuits on the megasquirt. I then installed 4 LS1 coils using the megasquirt to drive them directly, and sequentially. Currently running MS2 on the latest version (3.3.3), with some low impedence 1000cc injectors.

It runs great, has some furious antilag, very easily tuned using the autotune feature in megasquirt. its been very reliable with easy starts and such (which I credit to the mega coils), even on E85/E90.

Timing map is pretty rusty right now in boost, very conservative 11 degrees across the board, but it pulls good on breakin boost of 7psi... Just putting around with it as I do not have much time to drive it and no plans to race this year.

For the wiring harness, I used an OBD0-OBD1 adapter to go to my stock wiring harness in my CRX, and ran a megasquirt 27 pin connector in place of the obd1 connector that would normally go to a P28.

Is it better than a obd1 setup? I say yes, as this car is setup to run roadcourse, and I am able to use ms2 traction control, boost control by speed, and easily and cheaply run the LS1 coil setup. Real time tuning and logging, and support for my tablet bluetooth dash without any extra money being spent. Total cost with the AEM EPM and LS1 coils swap, connectors, wiring, etc, was under $350 as well, which is cheaper than a S300/neptune box... Plus the obd1 distributor and adapter harness not included, which would be over $100.
 

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Oh yes, I can't show my gratuity to you for using Megasquirt on an Honda engine. Congratulations! Can you upload some pictures of your setup? Why are you using an OBD1 dizzy? I'm running MS2 on my CRX too, stock wiring, stock dizzy. just jumped ICM to direct coil control using a VB921

 

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We run a MS2 in our EF hatch rally car. It was pretty easy to get sorted out and tune at the dyno. We've had no issues at all with this part of the build. We added the baro correction add-on board, but haven't been up high enough yet to dial it in.

We have a B20B in the second car that we want to do the same thing as you did (AEM EPM and coil-on-plug) with a MS2. It's great to hear that this actually works out well.
 

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Total cost with the AEM EPM and LS1 coils swap, connectors, wiring, etc, was under $350 as well, which is cheaper than a S300/neptune box... Plus the obd1 distributor and adapter harness not included, which would be over $100.
I don't mean to call into question the effectiveness of Megasquirt, but I do have to call you out on price. The cheapest I can find an unassembled MS2 for is $279+sh, AEM EPM is $168+sh, and 4x ACDelco coils for $140. I can only presume you paid $350 by getting used/free parts, or do you have links?? If not, a used S300/NepTune w/ecu & jumper harness costs less.

I can see if you absolutely needed traction control or COP, then it's cheaper. Otherwise I'm not so sure it's cheap, easier, or better.


I've personally converted 2 cars to OBD1 (both were originally DPFI) and helped a friend build an MS from scratch for a turbo Miata. I can say with conviction the MS system took more work to build & tune.
 

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I don't mean to call into question the effectiveness of Megasquirt, but I do have to call you out on price. The cheapest I can find an unassembled MS2 for is $279+sh, AEM EPM is $168+sh, and 4x ACDelco coils for $140. I can only presume you paid $350 by getting used/free parts, or do you have links?? If not, a used S300/NepTune w/ecu & jumper harness costs less.

I can see if you absolutely needed traction control or COP, then it's cheaper. Otherwise I'm not so sure it's cheap, easier, or better.


I've personally converted 2 cars to OBD1 (both were originally DPFI) and helped a friend build an MS from scratch for a turbo Miata. I can say with conviction the MS system took more work to build & tune.
I think Darkhorizon refers that coils, connectors and wiring costs. Not included the MS2.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I can only presume you paid $350 by getting used/free parts
Fortunately for me, I have been collecting MS2/1 units that have popped up used for DIRT cheap $100-200, with goodies usually. Around the time I was doing this, a brand new AEM EPM popped up at a swap meet for $80... I was really lucky. Coils and plug wires were free, I live in LSx land up (own a LS2 and LSx myself) here and a buddy had a box in the back of his shop full of crap.

Why are you using an OBD1 dizzy? I'm running MS2 on my CRX too, stock wiring, stock dizzy. just jumped ICM to direct coil control using a VB921
I can comment here a few ways. I am using the AEM position sensor in place of the diz now... because the OBD0 diz REALLY was a nightmare to deal with. My MS2 VR circuit was blown up or otherwise sucked, so on top of that I also had tons of noise issues, so I really just gave up on it, as I wanted to do fancy coils anyway. The OBD1 comment was regarding the costs of running a obd1 distributor for less noise, or if I did a S300/P28 swap instead of a megasquirt.

I can say with conviction the MS system took more work to build & tune.
It took me awhile the first time... but now I have since megasquirted my Miata, a turbo KIA, a 350z, and 2 VW cars. The time investment has paid off with some seriously sharp knowledge on the MS system that is paying me back in other platforms.... Picking up random units off facebook and craigslist people gave up on for pennies then flipping them off to friends, built to spec, for less than the cost of new parts. Everyone wins.

I'm running MS2 on my CRX too, stock wiring, stock dizzy. just jumped ICM to direct coil control using a VB921
Im glad to see someone had good sucess on the stock diz. I was able to get my obd0 to idle, but it wouldnt do anything over 1200rpm due to noise and whatnot. I tried running on the 4x and the 12x-1 tooth... which one did you end up using?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
How the hell do you blow up the VR circuit. That thing is bullet proof.
I used random garbage to put it together, it just never worked correctly. I think a trace was damaged or something. I ended up hard wiring the 8 pin IC to fix it.

I wanted to to a LM1815 on it after I already committed to the new AEM stuff. I'm building a RX7 13b ms2 soon, so i will be using 2 LM chips on that.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
LM1815 is my favorite signal conditioner based on zero-crossing detection.

Also you can use a MAX9926, who has two VR conditioners.
i remember I just put a MS2 together that already had a LM on it... I plugged it into a 60-2 KIA motor and havent had to even think about it it works so well.
 

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Avoid the EPM! Cam flex will fuck everything up for you.


Way way way way way better to use Y8 oil pump/crank timing gear and modified Aluminum cam gear with magnet and hall sensor.
 

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The LM1815 VR conditioner is my choice as well, take a look at the pics below, the small purple circuit board to the side of the main ECU PCB is a LM1815 VR conditioner circuit that has about $9 worth of materials in it.





Very cheap and robust circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Avoid the EPM! Cam flex will fuck everything up for you.


Way way way way way better to use Y8 oil pump/crank timing gear and modified Aluminum cam gear with magnet and hall sensor.
Maybe next time. For now it works well, and i am not getting any timing drift out of it on antilag at 5000rpms (I checked). If it gets worse or I have problems with it in the future ill look to that direction, but I see alot of top honda guys are running cam triggers without issues....
 

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I have an MS2, and would pay someone to set it up on my crx for me , as I am just too busy and a bit of a caveman with this stuff. but that person doesn't exist. someday i'll have time , maybe. haha
 
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