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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone I've been working out the kinks in a D16z6 turbo I got from a ex coworker, 3rb owner since the build and im trying to sort this out. I made this nifty diagram, I also found this diagram that led me to your website. I have 0 info on the build but I though, hey getting the boost gauge and AFR gauges working is the first step then I stated to trace vacuum lines.. its running and driving I've been dailying it
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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Does the compressor housing not have a nipple? The boost control should be between the nipple on the compressor housing and the waste gate, or a port somewhere on the charge pipe, preferably before the intercooler but anywhere before the throttlebody will work. The bov can feed off the pcv port if you are running straight vented, but I would tee into the brake booster line if you have a recirculating pcv system to avoid oil contamination.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Does the compressor housing not have a nipple? The boost control should be between the nipple on the compressor housing and the waste gate, or a port somewhere on the charge pipe, preferably before the intercooler but anywhere before the throttlebody will work. The bov can feed off the pcv port if you are running straight vented, but I would tee into the brake booster line if you have a recirculating pcv system to avoid oil contamination.
We were really busy and I didn't have time to get it into the air and look with a flashlight, but from my visual inspection no. I think I can get into the pipe before the intercooler and instal a screw in nipple. I think straight vented is a type of MBC its not that one its the cheaper style
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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For mine, I had to add a nipple for my manual boost controller. Its a Go Fast Bits (GFB) Atomic. Still same process as yours though.

So if you don't know anything about the the build, then I'd say conservative is going to be safe until you know what's been done to the bottom end. How much power do you think its making now? Definitely get the Wideband and boost gauge up and going. That will let you know if it's "safe" or not. I put the quotes because if you don't know what's in the bottom end then safe is only a relative term. 11.5:1 is what you're hoping for from AFR while in boost under full load.
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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I think straight vented is a type of MBC its not that one its the cheaper style
Straight vented refers to the Positive Crank case Ventilation system, which would be no pvc system other than a draft tube of some sort, or possibly a vent into a catch can with a drain line.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Straight vented refers to the Positive Crank case Ventilation system, which would be no pvc system other than a draft tube of some sort, or possibly a vent into a catch can with a drain line.
Breather on the valve cover and some vent tube on the PVC valve
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
For mine, I had to add a nipple for my manual boost controller. Its a Go Fast Bits (GFB) Atomic. Still same process as yours though.

So if you don't know anything about the the build, then I'd say conservative is going to be safe until you know what's been done to the bottom end. How much power do you think its making now? Definitely get the Wideband and boost gauge up and going. That will let you know if it's "safe" or not. I put the quotes because if you don't know what's in the bottom end then safe is only a relative term. 11.5:1 is what you're hoping for from AFR while in boost under full load.
I agree that's why I'm worried about fixing the vaccum until I can see the the AFR and boost, im going to dig though the box of parts it came with see if an oxygen sensor is in there. I honestly haven't seen one anywhere (and the pile of waste gate springs makes me worry) I need to try and trace that AFR wiring and see if it goes anywhere. Thanks for the base values. I'd really like to get the boost gauge working asap. Im really curious what the waste gate is doing with both vacuum lines hooked up. I found another MBC in the parts box but no wide band sensor yet but I could possibly make use of the extra vacuum fittings
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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Worry less about boost if its not actively eating itself and worry more about AFR. Buy a sensor. Buy a whole setup and put it on the car. Because if you AFR is off, todays fun will equal tomorrows sad face because it blew up because of running too long with an improper fuel mixture. Til you get that Wideband going, I'd only run 93 octane fuel just as a buffer. Just my 2 cents. It's all fun and games until it blows up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Worry less about boost if its not actively eating itself and worry more about AFR. Buy a sensor. Buy a whole setup and put it on the car. Because if you AFR is off, todays fun will equal tomorrows sad face because it blew up because of running too long with an improper fuel mixture. Til you get that Wideband going, I'd only run 93 octane fuel just as a buffer. Just my 2 cents. It's all fun and games until it blows up.
If I have the AFR in the car already do I just need the wide band oxygen sensor?
 

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What kind of AFR gauge is it?

Its not one of those aftermarket narrowband AFR gauges from an auto parts store display shelf, is it?

Also in the hand drawn diagram above, the BOV vac line should not be behind the boost controller. It should see straight manifold vacuum/pressure (your red line). Reference the MS Paint drawing you alsp attached.


Which picture did you draw? Couldnt tell from the post context :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
What kind of AFR gauge is it?

Its not one of those aftermarket narrowband AFR gauges from an auto parts store display shelf, is it?

Also in the hand drawn diagram above, the BOV vac line should not be behind the boost controller. It should see straight manifold vacuum/pressure (your red line). Reference the MS Paint drawing you alsp attached.


Which picture did you draw? Couldnt tell from the post context :)
I honestly wouldn't know then difference, I took a picture for you. I really haven't had time to get it up on a lift the last day and a half, and with winter coming I have to start getting my winter cars ready. No reason to be snarky buddy im here trying to learn, this is my 1st turbo car im a mechanic not a tuner. With that being said every ounce of information you give me is valuable.
 

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Sloppy Jalopy
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What kind of AFR gauge is it?

Its not one of those aftermarket narrowband AFR gauges from an auto parts store display shelf, is it?

Also in the hand drawn diagram above, the BOV vac line should not be behind the boost controller. It should see straight manifold vacuum/pressure (your red line). Reference the MS Paint drawing you alsp attached.


Which picture did you draw? Couldnt tell from the post context :)
snarky ?come on ,,,he only asks because he wants you to have every chance of suckcess ..
 

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lol, the vac/boost gauge goes on the intake manifold.
that's because it measures positive or negative pressure.
mbc goes between the turbine(exhaust) housing and waste-gate.
mbc bleeds off psi that would otherwise open the waste gate (and dump the 'boost').
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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where is the snark? lol, one of a few members who will go out of their way to help someone, how dare he?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
lol, the vac/boost gauge goes on the intake manifold.
that's because it measures positive or negative pressure.
mbc goes between the turbine(exhaust) housing and waste-gate.
mbc bleeds off psi that would otherwise open the waste gate (and dump the 'boost').
So what do you think the previous owner was trying to accomplish, or was it just dumb luck? New cars with turbos don't have anything like this they run on dumb waste gates.
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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Actually most factory cars use something more refined called a pwm boost control solenoid, that receives an i/o signal from the ecu to control boost pressure by letting boost pressure bleed off before it hits the wastegate. Same concept, but one does it with a spring, diaphragm and knob, the other does it with a spring, coil and pintle. Pwm boost management is much more versatile allowing boost by gear and/or speed tuning through the ecu, in some applications it can be set up with a switch or a rotary dial to limit boost until you want it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Actually most factory cars use something more refined called a pwm boost control solenoid, that receives an i/o signal from the ecu to control boost pressure by letting boost pressure bleed off before it hits the wastegate. Same concept, but one does it with a spring, diaphragm and knob, the other does it with a spring, coil and pintle. Pwm boost management is much more versatile allowing boost by gear and/or speed tuning through the ecu, in some applications it can be set up with a switch or a rotary dial to limit boost until you want it.
Wow you be an engineer at BMW
 
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