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I was curious on the max SAFE redline for a D16Y8 boosted, (stock everything?).

When I was messing with the 2Step I saw my tuner had it set to 7500 but that seems a little to high for a D-Series. I thought the redline was 6900 RPM, but since my motor is stock and boosted I don't wanna even push it to that.

What should I set my redline limit to that is considered safe (for racing wise if need be).

I was thinking around 6500, but I hardly pass the 6000rpm range since i'm a little scared too lol.

And I also noticed my vtec was set to 5000-6000, isn't that a bit high? I thought vtec was suppose to kick in around 4200?

Still learning as I go, best to know the small things now lol.
 

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I think I have heard of people reving stock y8 heads to 8000 or more before floating valves. However, I would never do that without ARP rod bolts. Some google searching should prove informative.
 

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Stock at least 7200 is the redline and fuel cut off, 6900 is dashed, that doesn't count lol.

The thing I'd like to know, and I know it depends on the engine and equip, and if it's even still making power on the dyno... what the actual limit of the mechanical components are...

Say a vitara build with ARP head studs, and upgraded valve springs/lumpy cam... Not worrying about headflow... what rpm will it be unsafe?

Or even stock valve train with arp rod bolts and head studs... I've always been curious..

I'm a dick so I turned redline off on my s300 stock bottom z6 with the comp cams springs/59300 (I think I can't even remember at this point).

It still made power higher than I was willing to keep going... no signs of valve float... might have contributed to the bearings going but that was likely more the oil starvation lol... again with the dick thing... :facepalm

Anyway I got as high as ~8500 and it was still making power and didn't blow up lol.

After playing with it for a while i set the redline to 8200 and only took it up there if I wanted to ride out whatever gear i was in... it wasn't building power at that point as much as it was continuing to make it without clear drop off.

My guess is the wall is pretty much right there on a stock head, but I don't know.

I'd love to here some specific cases of x work taking someone to x rpm safely...

So many of the dyno sheets I see power band goes up to as high as 10k... I don't know if that's just to seek out the power on the dyno, or if it's a software offset thing, or if people are running to those rpms regularly at the strip.

I frankly liked the way the car drove better shifting it at 7200 just felt like I was wringing it out when I went higher even with an upgraded valve train. But at the track you obviously would want to play with that depending on what ended up being faster..
 

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Stock redline unless you upgraded your springs then where ever you stop making power when your getting a tune.
 

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i set my rev cut at 9.2k but usually shift at 8.8k since it doesn't make much power after 8.5k, the purpose is to keep boost in between shift with the gt35

the motor has supertech valvetrain and stock cam.
 

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If you're barely turning to 6, you're losing some time. I'd say 7500 is safe. That's what I set the JRSC car I did on 9.5psi, and it was on stock everything minus the charger. Stock cam probably isn't going to float the valves as long as the springs aren't extra old unless you get north of 7500-8000, I would say.
 

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The main reasons why manufacturers tell you to upgrade the valvetrain when running an aggressive cam is not because of rpm but because of lift. You'll have issues with your rod bolts before you have valve float issues with the stock cam when revving really high.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Yeah everything is stock besides a fresh headgasket and APR headstuds when I put the turbo kit on. The only thing I was worried about is spinning a bearing because of the 'y8 oil pump myths' so I was basing the safe factor off that. I wasn't sure if the tuner set the redline to 7500 or it was already the default RPM set by s300.

I guess i'll set it at 6900 to be on the safe side.
 

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i set my rev cut at 9.2k but usually shift at 8.8k since it doesn't make much power after 8.5k, the purpose is to keep boost in between shift with the gt35

the motor has supertech valvetrain and stock cam.
Your stock cam makes power up there?


You know revving a stcok cam to 9200 is pointless.
 

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Your stock cam makes power up there?


You know revving a stcok cam to 9200 is pointless.
not COMPLETELY pointless with a turbo.

yeah, power will dip, but you are still making plenty of power

If I have a setup making say 300whp at 7000, and it still makes over 250whp around 8500 or so, Id still let it rev that high

as long as teh hardware supports it/durable enough, why not?

maybe he will blow it and learn the lesson of properly building a motor when going turbo
 

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Your stock cam makes power up there?


You know revving a stcok cam to 9200 is pointless.
torque is dropping badly after 7.5k but it still have above 200nm at 8.8krpm..

i want to keep the boost in between shift..if i shift early it will drop out of boost

btw the bottom end is built as well
 

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Upgrade the cam you will make so much more power....Have you seen what a cam does. Speed factory did a test vs standard cam and people made 60+whp.

Just sayin..
 
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