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1994 EH9
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Discussion Starter #1
Bought these off of Amazon. I paid I think $63 before shipping. Put them on last week. So far so very good. No noise at all when I brake . Jumped on the highway,brought it up to 100 and and they slowed me down very smoothly and quickly. Only time will tell but for the first week,and for the price I paid,I give these bad boys two fuck yeahs!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Max-KT002311-Slotted-Drilled-Ceramic/dp/B00HS5V3Y2/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1432768262&sr=8-13&keywords=1994+civic+rotors[/ame]
 

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Arnt drilled and slotted rotors a sales gimick that actually works worse than plain rotors with any brake pad compound that isnt ancient?
 

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Arnt drilled and slotted rotors a sales gimick that actually works worse than plain rotors with any brake pad compound that isnt ancient?
Yep.. Less contact area for pads to grab and also the "gases" myth.


but for 73 bucks.. thats less then Wear Ever OEM reps rotors.. and these are zinc plated with ceramic pads.. interesting.

Lets get a review in a month or 2
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Maybe one of you guys should call bmw,or Mercedes,and tell them to stop putting drilled and slotted rotors on they're cars because they don't work. They have been doing it wrong all these years. Thanks for the insight
 

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Do your homework. Even Porsche and Ferrari will admit that the cross drilled rotors they use are for looks. So if you are one of those kids who thinks the little holes look cool, get a name brand drilled rotor like Ferrari does. The REASON Ferrari's 'holed' rotors are alright to use is because they are CAST with the holes in them, so they are not actually drilled into cast iron rotors. Cheap drilled rotors are not safe, and even the good ones are not necessary. Why do Ferrari do it? People THINK they want it, and it sells. If you don't believe me, go into the business world. You will learn that pretty soon, you can sell utter shit if people THINK its better.


their rotors and pads arent 70 bucks either

The reason for the creation of cross drilled rotors initially was to remove the "gasses" from the brake pads. HOWEVER, most of your modern brake pads (Axxis metal, AEM semi-ceramic) do NOT produce gasses when heating. This was on bad brake pads used in the 1950s and 1960s. Back then, asbestos was also used, and we dont use that either.

The other reason is so called heat dissapation. I don't have my physics and thermo books with me, but the logic is that the holes in the rotor are suppose to allow the brake pad to cool. So...air gets into the rotor from the inside of the vents. If you have a back rotor which is solid, air gets into these holes how? If your stopped, you are leaving air inside these holes sandwiched between the pads, thus creating air with a rising temperature. Its increasing in pressure from the heat, which I guess you "could" call a gas that would affect braking. So the cross drilled rotors do not remove any gasses formed by brake pads (because there are none created anymore) but could possibly inhibit the creation of "hot spots".

Cross drilled rotors have LESS contact area because of the holes.
But if the rotor is cooler, its better, right? Well no, because these rotors are not cooler. THe heat is generated from the pad/rotor contact. What removes heat the most effectively? When stopped or moving, the pad transfers heat into the rotor because its made of cast iron. the rotor has a lot of surface area and even vanes in it. But the little holes allow air in this surface contact, and you can transfer more heat into a solid big ass chunk of cast iron more than you can into the air. Don't believe me? Touch some steam at 150 degrees, then touch a piece of hot metal which is at 150 degrees. Which burns your hand? the metal. So let the heat transfer into the metal, because since it has so much more surface area, dissapates better.
 

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@ Esotericimage
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So true. I see people buying into crap all the time. Autozone people always try to sell crap and people that dont know better buy it.

And i have seen drilled rotors crack at the holes move throughout the rotor.
Also seen uneven wear on the break pads.
 

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Heres pics from this past Rolex 24.. If the drilled and slotted rotors are so great, why arent they on racecars?









Fuckin Imgur deleted half my Rolex pics.. time to upload and attach
 

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Nothing wrong with drilled/slotted rotors if you like them for the looks. No different than people slamming their cars, putting on crazy aero, having wonky camber, or weird tire combos etc.

Sounds like OP is just throwing these brakes on his DD, not a track car. People that plan to road race their vehicles obviously wouldn't be using this pad/rotor combo, so doesn't seem like a big deal.
 

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you can sell utter shit if people THINK its better.
I have to explain this to people who want me to spec them out a Mac instead of a PC on a weekly basis.

"Yes, it IS shiney AND white, but it costs $1,500 for the base model and they charge 3 times the price the upgrades actually cost, AND the new ones shut off 2 of their 4 processor cores permanently so they can say they are thinner with better battery life than the competition, who charges you $600 for a model with better hardware and a fully functional processor...."

Lesson here, dont buy Macs.

Back on point, I have heard some debate over the "cheese grater" argument, that drilled and slotter rotors go through pads faster, anyone have any personal experience for or against that question?
 

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Nothing wrong with drilled/slotted rotors if you like them for the looks. No different than people slamming their cars, putting on crazy aero, having wonky camber, or weird tire combos etc.

Sounds like OP is just throwing these brakes on his DD, not a track car. People that plan to road race their vehicles obviously wouldn't be using this pad/rotor combo, so doesn't seem like a big deal.
 

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why the hell do people compare race cars to our daily drivers? I personally dont giuve a shit if a racecar uses blanks. They tend to be using larger and stronger calipers capable of finding any stress failures on slotted rotors.

my 20 year old civic with stock calipers is not going to ever crack any rotor that is thicker than the factory specified minimum.


slotted rotors look good and are only a few bucks more expensive.

Im getting slotted. Not a fan of drilled rotors personally. at my shop we always get drilled and slotted rotors since they look pretty killer behind a set of nice wheels. and flashy-ness is what makes the cars sell better.
 

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1994 EH9
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Discussion Starter #13
Do your homework. Even Porsche and Ferrari will admit that the cross drilled rotors they use are for looks. So if you are one of those kids who thinks the little holes look cool, get a name brand drilled rotor like Ferrari does. The REASON Ferrari's 'holed' rotors are alright to use is because they are CAST with the holes in them, so they are not actually drilled into cast iron rotors. Cheap drilled rotors are not safe, and even the good ones are not necessary. Why do Ferrari do it? People THINK they want it, and it sells. If you don't believe me, go into the business world. You will learn that pretty soon, you can sell utter shit if people THINK its better.


their rotors and pads arent 70 bucks either

The reason for the creation of cross drilled rotors initially was to remove the "gasses" from the brake pads. HOWEVER, most of your modern brake pads (Axxis metal, AEM semi-ceramic) do NOT produce gasses when heating. This was on bad brake pads used in the 1950s and 1960s. Back then, asbestos was also used, and we dont use that either.

The other reason is so called heat dissapation. I don't have my physics and thermo books with me, but the logic is that the holes in the rotor are suppose to allow the brake pad to cool. So...air gets into the rotor from the inside of the vents. If you have a back rotor which is solid, air gets into these holes how? If your stopped, you are leaving air inside these holes sandwiched between the pads, thus creating air with a rising temperature. Its increasing in pressure from the heat, which I guess you "could" call a gas that would affect braking. So the cross drilled rotors do not remove any gasses formed by brake pads (because there are none created anymore) but could possibly inhibit the creation of "hot spots".

Cross drilled rotors have LESS contact area because of the holes.
But if the rotor is cooler, its better, right? Well no, because these rotors are not cooler. THe heat is generated from the pad/rotor contact. What removes heat the most effectively? When stopped or moving, the pad transfers heat into the rotor because its made of cast iron. the rotor has a lot of surface area and even vanes in it. But the little holes allow air in this surface contact, and you can transfer more heat into a solid big ass chunk of cast iron more than you can into the air. Don't believe me? Touch some steam at 150 degrees, then touch a piece of hot metal which is at 150 degrees. Which burns your hand? the metal. So let the heat transfer into the metal, because since it has so much more surface area, dissapates better.

Ok let's get this straight,don't know who you are nor do I care. Little kid??? I think not. I'm a grown ass man,30 yrs old,3 kids,a wife,a house. Been in law enforcement for a little over 6 years.Been shot at,spit on,many fights and one high speed chase( he got away from us but I arrested him the next day). But I guess I'm just a little kid. It was YOU that got your period and had a little bitch fit after I posted this. This is a product review. And that's what I was doing. The title said NOTHING about cross drilled vs non drilled,did it? No. Did I at ANY point say these were better then this or better then that? Scroll up and re-read my op. It's not edited. Oh no,guess he didn't say they were better. But yet you post pics of FULL BLOWN race cars. I have a 1994 civic sedan. They don't compare. I like the way they look. Do that make someone less of a man because he wants slotted rotors? Do I pull up next to an amg and say,hey you wonna run it,I got drilled rotors. I think not sir. It's a personal preference. And again,it was a product review. I even said,for the price,it's not bad. Nothing more,nothing less. Good day sir!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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If you are a police officer acting like that, I would bank on looking for another job pretty soon. That sounded pretty unprofessional.
 

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OP posted about a good deal that he got on some rotors/pads and that he liked what he got for the price. He states that he is just using them on his street car under normal driving conditions... and then you jumped in and derailed the thread.

So I guess that means I was talking to you.
 

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Bought these off of Amazon. I paid I think $63 before shipping. Put them on last week. So far so very good. No noise at all when I brake . Jumped on the highway,brought it up to 100 and and they slowed me down very smoothly and quickly. Only time will tell but for the first week,and for the price I paid,I give these bad boys two fuck yeahs!!!
Did you do a proper break in? Those brakes should actually feel pretty damn good after 2-300 miles or so!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Did you do a proper break in? Those brakes should actually feel pretty damn good after 2-300 miles or so!
I just take it easy. I'm 6 miles from,4 of which are highway. I only use the civic for to and from work. The last pair I had lasted me 7 years. 7 years before I had to change those rotors. Lol

But anyway,Idk you would call that a proper break in or not
 

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I just take it easy. I'm 6 miles from,4 of which are highway. I only use the civic for to and from work. The last pair I had lasted me 7 years. 7 years before I had to change those rotors. Lol

But anyway,Idk you would call that a proper break in or not
Check out brake bed-in procedures to help get the most out of your new setup.
 

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I just take it easy. I'm 6 miles from,4 of which are highway. I only use the civic for to and from work. The last pair I had lasted me 7 years. 7 years before I had to change those rotors. Lol

But anyway,Idk you would call that a proper break in or not
you need to do a proper bedding else brake pads have a high chance of glazing over and you only getting part of your potential performance.


every brand has their own breakin procedure. I use a general one. drive moderately in light traffic or on a twisty backroad to warm up the pads and rotors, usually around 10-15 minutes is fine. do 3-4 HARD 40-50mph to 10mph slow downs, drive easy for 5-10 minutes to cooldown rotors and pads, book it up to at least 60mph and HARD on the brakes (NO LOCKUPS!!) to around 10-15mph. do that 2-3 times with a minute of easy driving between.


then drive it for a good 10-15 minutes iwith only mild braking. nothing hard, yet nothing soft.

go home, let brakes cool down so you dont burn yourself. Run your fingers over rotor, it should feel smooth, no ridges, and rotor surface should be free of any black or silver marks. Should be somewhat shiny surface.


Before doing all this, be sure brake fluid is topped off, and pedal feels good. Nothing sucks more than a preventable OH SHIT moment if you hit a corner hard on the brakes and you take up the entire road to correct yourself.


Nothing crazy! lol. enjoy your brakes
 
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