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'89 CRX HF
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Discussion Starter #1
installed my new ACL main bearings and plastigauged them...

all of them are out of spec, heres my rough estimates on plastigauge thickness after torquing the girdle down...

1 - .038
2 - .051
3 - .051
4 - .048
5 - .045

OEM bearing colors that came out of it, i THINK this was the right order...
1 - Green
2 - Red
3 - Red
4 - Red
5 - Green

what color bearings should i buy to get this within spec? man this shit is confusing, im only finding charts for B series motors online...

spec should be:
1 & 5 - .018-.036
2 & 4 - .024-.042
3 - .030-.048
 

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Here, I'll see if I can find the color chart

Edit, found it
 

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Those are just guidelines for starting at. Buy a set of each and use them to make measurements, then buy the bearings you need.
 

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ACL's vary from bearing to bearing. There's no fixed measurement for them. You can try mixing the halves around and see if it tightens any of the measurements.
 

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'89 CRX HF
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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
here's a question, again im a noob to Honda color codes...

why would i use a Yellow and 4 Browns if what came out of it were Red and Green? If the stamps mean Yellow and Brown, why would it have bearings other than that in it? shouldnt i start with Red and Green then?

i know im difficult....

edit: fuck it, just ordered the Yellow and Brown bearings...
 

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yellow bar for me
viper blue 92 eg
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but my clearances were all over the board...

is there a way to figure out what the standard ACLs are equal to? then decide which bearing based on my current clearances with them?
i think you could have taken the micrometer to them and got the thicknesses. then added in the plastigage measurements and subtracted what you wanted your clearance to be. then took that number to the charts and got the right bearing for each one.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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micrometer and snap gauges........tools need for blueprinting a motor.

All green or all yellow, what the dealerships do.
 

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95 CX Hatch
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5,910 Posts
All green or all yellow, what the dealerships do.
And like mentioned earlier swapping bearing halfs will get different results. It took me like 3 hours to get mine right haha. 2 sets of ACL's and swapping like a madman! 28k miles and counting.
 

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92 Hatch
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Im having a problem with my clearences as well, I bought the colors according to the block and crank, I cant quite get the plastigage to work right for me, after I torque it down and take the gurdle off half of the plastigage is on the crank and the other half is on the gurdle and then the full groove bearing screws me up cause there is a division between the strip, Im gonna screw around a bit more with it, should I spray some WD-40 on the bearings and wipe them before so the plastigage will stay on the crank alone? Im kinda of a noob to Honda motors I just started getting into them in January but have rebuilt 2 motors, one once and this one is the second time but I reused the old bearings the first time when I was gonna go All motor but I got a ride in a boosted LS Integra and my mind quickly changed on the all motor deal. does anyone have any tips for using plastigage? Also the smallest plastigauge I could find was the Green that measures .001-.003 I think (top of my head) and I know that the clearences are tighter then, that. It was a mission to find cause the first to autoparts didnt know what it was. Im using a crank from a different motor, Im going to measure the crank journals and make sure everything there is ok, because on like the only good clearence I got was .002in and thats the service limit and Im not liking that.

Sry for the long post...but good luck with your build
 

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its a bitch aint it ;) , im sure everyone remembers all my posts. My main bearing clearances were a touch tighter than the service limit of 0.002 and my connecting rod clearances were almost dead in between the mid-range of acceptable clearances.
When doing plastigage measurements, the bearing face and back and girdle side and crank journals have to be COMPLETELY DRY.
At first I bought generic size Taiho bearings that I guess were supposed to be like ACL, all green, and they seemed to give slightly better results than my Brown/Green/Yellow/Yellow/Green Honda bearings that my engine requested. But after final assembly, the crank turned over smoothly and there was no binding of any type.

PS....... when building a SOHC, common sense would instruct you to install the thrust washers/bearings with the smooth side towards the crank. However the Helms is 100% correct, its actually the rougher side with the two grooves(supposedly oil flow related), FACING THE CRANKSHAFT.
Thats the only slip-up i had and had to take apart the bottom end (didnt run it yet) and install the thrusties properly. Good luck and use LOTS of moly based lube.
 

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I am just starting my build, and just finished cleaning my pistons. I bought a D16a1 a few weeks ago that was takens apart to the last balt. I was told that this twin cam a1 should have had p29 pistons, but it turned out that this motor had pm7 pistons. The motor I am building is a D16y8, using these pm7 pistons, and a y8 two layer headgasket. I did a compression calculator test on this setup and it told me that the compression ratio was 13.09:1 with a displacement of 1590.59. I have the motor torn most of the way apart, and tomorrow I will finish this and get my numbers and such for the main and rod bearing. Hope I dont have to much trouble with these bearring. Need some help with pricing, went to the local honda dealer and priced new ring , and was told they run $40's per piston and the bearring halfs were 14 each. do these prices sound right to you guys.
 

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'89 CRX HF
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Discussion Starter #17
I am just starting my build, and just finished cleaning my pistons. I bought a D16a1 a few weeks ago that was takens apart to the last balt. I was told that this twin cam a1 should have had p29 pistons, but it turned out that this motor had pm7 pistons. The motor I am building is a D16y8, using these pm7 pistons, and a y8 two layer headgasket. I did a compression calculator test on this setup and it told me that the compression ratio was 13.09:1 with a displacement of 1590.59. I have the motor torn most of the way apart, and tomorrow I will finish this and get my numbers and such for the main and rod bearing. Hope I dont have to much trouble with these bearring. Need some help with pricing, went to the local honda dealer and priced new ring , and was told they run $40's per piston and the bearring halfs were 14 each. do these prices sound right to you guys.
FYI....P29 = PM7

as for bearings, www.hondaautomotiveparts.com
 

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92 Hatch
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its a bitch aint it ;) , im sure everyone remembers all my posts. My main bearing clearances were a touch tighter than the service limit of 0.002 and my connecting rod clearances were almost dead in between the mid-range of acceptable clearances.
When doing plastigage measurements, the bearing face and back and girdle side and crank journals have to be COMPLETELY DRY.
At first I bought generic size Taiho bearings that I guess were supposed to be like ACL, all green, and they seemed to give slightly better results than my Brown/Green/Yellow/Yellow/Green Honda bearings that my engine requested. But after final assembly, the crank turned over smoothly and there was no binding of any type.


so did you use the OEM or the Taiho? and how is the motor and have you measured the oil pressure? or is it the motor is the pic and hasnt ran yet? Ive tried swappin the bearings around and going using the next thickest color but I still some out with the same clearence of like .003, I measured 3 different colors and they all came out with the same .073 I belive it was, granted I used a cailper instead of a micrometer, but I also measured the bore of the torqued gurdle and the diameter of the crank plus the bearings thicknesses and got a perfect match, meaning the diameter of the crank journal and both bearings was the same size as the bore of the torqued gurdle my caliper only measures to a thousands but if my measurements are correct then it would be within spec because it would be less then a thousanth and specs are I belive .0007-.0014 for #1 journal...or do you guys think that this method is inaccurate? the next step in the book is a new crank and Im not really feelin that move...you think I should just settle? Input?

Thanks
 

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i ended up using the oemhonda ones to be on the safe side for this motor. No i dont know the oil pressure yet as I havent ran it. I will be installing it in april of 07' so i wont know until then.
The codes on the crank for bearings colours are all fine and dandy assuming that your crank journals are within spec. Redo the plastigage measurements on the mains one more time and im sure your doing it in 2 steps. but if not..18ftlbs then 38(for z6, 33 for all others).
 
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