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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok so i know this has been covered over and over and over, but im still not 100% satisfied with what im finding...
Driving a 96 civic dx. D16y7 at 160kmiles 5sp
Running 5w-30 high mileage. In phx,Az
About 3 weeks ago i replaced my transmission with another used transmissions as my old one was slipping and grinding bad. Put a lightweight flywheel and stage 3 clutch( yes completly overkill but they sent me the wrong one and i plan on boost in the near future so oh well)
Everything was fine and dandy but last week my dumby oil preasure light went on. Checked oil level and it was fine. Bought a gauge from o'Reilly and hooked it into where the old oil pressure sensor was. It read 0. Shit... figured it was probably the oil pump so this week i bought an oil pump. Did the ol' shimming and porting technique on it. At the same time i did my timing belt and water pump. My oil pickup tube seemed fine as i ran tons of carb cleaner through it and it flowed fine, noticed a pretty significant dent in the oil pan tho..
Put it all back together..Started the car and cold idle was about 25psi, once warmed up was at about 10psi, within specs so not terrible but expected it to be higher..
Now when i rev anything passed idle it doesn't climb like its supposed to. At 4krpm, its at about 15psi. Havent found any leaks of any sort on anything... whats going on?
Is the dented oil pan causing interference issues with the pickup?
Should i switch to 10w-40??
Are my bearings just shot?
Whats the next course of action i should take? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks everyone!
 

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93 Civic HB SI
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Picture of the pan dent? The bottom of the pan should be as flat as possible. There is less than a 1/4" gap between the pickup mouth and the pan floor.

Is this thing not knocking like a diesel yet with your symptoms? Video of engine running?

When you said "started car cold, 25psi" this is not a good sign. These engines with good pumps and oil clearances are capable of 80+PSI on start up with 70-80 degree ambient air and oil temperatures.

If you're on to the second oil pump and still have pressure issues, either the dent is seriously restricting flow or your oil clearances are now so loose your just blowing oil past all the precision fit oiled parts.

Might have been a compound failure of sorts, the pan dent could have starved the engine slowly over time and started wearing your bearing oil clearances away.

When you changed the pump, did you notice any glitter in the oil? Do you still have the old filter? Cut it apart and check the filter media for evidence.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Dude thanks a ton for taking time to reply!
Ill post pictures of the pan as soon as i get home in about 2 hours.
Suprisngly its not knocking like crazy at all. It sounds like it might need a vlave lash adjustment(slightly) if anything..
Yeah. I know that cold start up pressure is real real low from everything ive read. That was the first initial yikes after replacing the pump.
The very bottom of the pan after i dropped it defintely had a little glitter to it, but nothing super crazy, and no grityness to it at all.
 

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It looks like that pan has been jacked up with a block of wood a few times lol.

That is a pretty serious dip, but the fact that it is curved the way it is 'should' leave enough open area of the pickup mouth to pull oil, but it's hard to know without seeing the inside of the pan and using the pickup against the bottom of it to check.

Since you are in the process of diagnosing, I would try to pull the pan down and attempt to hammer it out back to flat, at least in the area where the pickup is and reinstall and see what happens. If you still don't have oil pressure after that, then the writing on the wall is pretty obvious :)

You did say you wanted to go turbo right? Lol
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well. I just went ahead and bought a new oilpan given there like $30... itll be here in 2 days. If that doesnt work, is it possible 5w30 is just to light of an oil and maybe a 10w40 would get me by for the next month to save some funds?? I know nothing of bearings and the sizes ill need of those, nor the sizes of pistons etc. I have been looking at the speed factory no notch connecting rods and vitara pistons tho so, guess i need to work some overtime and get those. Bearing suggestions? Is this something i could do in the garage or should i take to a machine shop? Any idea how much a machine shop would charge to dissasemble and reassemble? Would they be the ones to tell me what sizes i need??
Im in the dark on this one. Haha
 

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If the oil pan is the problem, 5w30 should get you correct oil pressure, but if not 10w40 'might' be able to bandaid you for a bit longer? no promises on length of time lol. Low oil pressure is low oil pressure, and once damage sets in it can only be remedied one way.

Because of the low oil pressure issue if the pan doesn't fix it, everything will need to be taken apart and measured to determine what is worn. You won't know the scope of work or what parts/labor you need to purchase until you have measurements and inspection completed.

All the crank/rod journals need measuring and inspection, cylinder bores, camshaft journals and cylinder head camshaft journal bore diameters measured and inspected to make sure those are not eaten up.

If you've never done those sorts of measurements or have the tools, I would pull engine and bring to a machine shop and pay to have them inspect. They will tell you if you need a new crank, or can machine existing crank and get oversize bearings, if cylinders need boring, if cylinder head and camshaft components are ok, etc.

Depending on their prognosis, it will either be cost effective to rebuild OR to simply just get a new engine. Typically it's always cheaper to get a new engine, especially since we are talking about Honda's. Y7's are a dime a dozen in any junkyard. Should not be expensive at all to get a used unit, then refresh it with new consumables.

In either case, before going turbo you should always start from a known good engine, or pay to bring the old worn engine back to known good. You will need upgrades beyond just that basic engine machine work, and it gets pricy :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hey just coming by to note that a new oil pan has fixed the issue! Cold start at 85psi. Idles warm at about 18psi. Climbs ~10psi per 1k rpm. Thank you so much for all of the information you provided for me!
Btw-really nice build forum you put together!
 

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Hey just coming by to note that a new oil pan has fixed the issue! Cold start at 85psi. Idles warm at about 18psi. Climbs ~10psi per 1k rpm. Thank you so much for all of the information you provided for me!
Btw-really nice build forum you put together!
Wooo buddy! You're one lucky guy, hopefully it holds up and you don't have anymore issues! Glad the pan replacement fixed the problem.
 
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