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Discussion Starter #1
Well I put my car on the Dyno couple weeks ago and the numbers were really bad
D15b7 JRsc 8 pounds boost seeing 10
450 dsm injectors
d16a6 cam and adjustable cam gear
Ported head and 20 milled of head
Stock bottom and about 230.000 kms on it
Jaker helped me with the tuning its uberdata but dont know much about the tune. Runs rich 10s to low 11s on my aem wide band ot full throttle I think the timing in the base map is very low, if that makes sense.
When we first did a couple runs the Mustang dyno showed 106 hp 92 ft
The cam was set at 0 we advanced the timing to 18deg and picked up 10hp and 6ft. So later that week I checked the cam thinking the intake charge was being blown by the exhaust valves suggested by a friend. I discovered that it was not a performance N/A cam but a d16a6 cam.This expained why my distrubuter was tilted to the front of my car so far that I had to slot the holes to get proper timing.? I think?? So I removed the timing belt and advanced it one tooth, the two marks were now level with the head, which should be the proper cam timing.Now do I still need to advance it 4.75 deg to get proper timing, or not.The distributer is now tilted to the fire wall wich is correct right?I know my car very well but seat of the pants still cant really notice a big differnce maybe more torque if anything.My real question is why still such low dyno numbers With my corrections on the dyno maybe gianed 10hp?? I have no plans to go back since I have only 1 autox race left this year if have been running the car since march and have placed 1st in every SM race I have competed in and captured a 1st at Nationals so the car can run well no problem there.I never really bothered to dyno it till now. Dont get me wrong it pulls way harder than it did. Do mustang dyno's really measure that low compared to dyno jet or the rest. I have heard 15% to 30% less I just would like some insite from you guys If you could help it would really help for next year soory for the long story but I think you can understand.
I currently have 4 deg advance and 18 timing Thnks Shane

Injectors to big?
More tuning?
1.5 litre? would a 1.6 help maybe v-tec
 

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Ookk
well first off,
you're running a 1.6 cam in a 1.5L
that requires adjusting the cam gear to compensate.
you're also running a milled head
that also requires adjusting the cam gear to compensate.
I do NOT know exactly how much you need to adjust it, maybe someone else can help you out with that.
But if you're off(and you most likely are.. moving a full tooth wont do shit but fuck up your powerband) it's going to hurt your power output, and probably make it wierd as hell to tune.

Jrsc's love timing advance to make power.. so you need as much advance as possible without preignition/detonation.

Also if you're a/f is really in the 10's, that is WAY too freaking rich,
i've heard that 10.5 and lower can actually damage your motor from being too rich..

mine is around 11.5, and I think 12.0 would make optimal power.

Basicaly, it looks to me like ur engine is NOT tuned right at all,
and you're still making probably 30hp more than stock
who knows how much more you'll make with proper tuning.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Ya your right forsure I know I started with a n/a set up before.But before I corrected the cam gear it was retarded what looked to be about 4 or 5 deg do you really think I should go back to that. Could I ad a adjustable fuel pressure regulater to lean it out a bit.??
 

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eh,
what I would do if it was mine.
find out exactly what the camgear needs to be set to to get everything back to stock.

then retune, do your a/f and timing with uberdata.
an adj fuel press reg is a good idea regaurdless though.
I have one on my setup, and my tuner said it came in pretty handy,
 
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Discussion Starter #5
The reason alot of mustang dyno are so low is because one they read 5% or so lower than a dynojet AND your #'s are of course uncorrected. This is the actual real # your putting out. Correction would depend on were your at. Everyone that posts dyno sheets online are corrected. Courtney Green posted a dyno sheet on HT with him running 815 whp on a dynojet. Correction factors here in utah are around 20-25% with the altitude. His actual uncorrected dyno #'s were around 575 whp. He is running 9's FYI in a street car.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
sounds like you need your cam properly degreeded. then set the timing cam accordingly. once that's doen you can set the dist. to proper timing and that should resolve your oissue. it won;y go away till you degree that motor most likely.
 

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Curious George
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I don't think that stock cam advanced or retarded make an huge difference, I iver built vw g60 with mercedez Kompressor, and we didn't ever fucked with cam timing. only aftermarket cam around 260 duration, with big lift, stock timing on 8valves. this car pulled in low 13sec. Not so bad for 1.8 8valves.
 

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dohcvteccivic said:
The reason alot of mustang dyno are so low is because one they read 5% or so lower than a dynojet AND your #'s are of course uncorrected. This is the actual real # your putting out. Correction would depend on were your at. Everyone that posts dyno sheets online are corrected. Courtney Green posted a dyno sheet on HT with him running 815 whp on a dynojet. Correction factors here in utah are around 20-25% with the altitude. His actual uncorrected dyno #'s were around 575 whp. He is running 9's FYI in a street car.
corrected for what?
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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106/92 on a stang with boost? Something is MAJORLY fucked up. My D15B7 did 121/99 on a stang dyno.

My guess is the cam timing is totally fucked up.........

With stock cam gear you'd be at 2.5-3 degree advanced cam timing on the A6 cam, which with boost would be good.

Dynojets lose 15% to driveline loss
Mustang lose 20% to driveline loss

 
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Discussion Starter #10
Should I put he b7 cam back in you think? That way at least I can get closer to the stock setup.How do I degree the cam I thought you just get number 1 piston to tdc. Then make sure the cam gear marks are level with the head which is correct for the B7 motor and of you go.??
 
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