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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Bear with me through my novel.

First some specs

The car is a 1989 base hatch. Stock lawn mower engine with an 88 DX 5-speed swapped in.

The suspension and brakes are not stock.
-Koni yellows with H&R race springs
-EF sedan front sway bar
-Integra front spindles for larger front brakes
-Hardrace front upper adjustable control arms
-Associated correct master and prop valve
-Rear CRX SI trailing arms for rear disc setup
-Hardrace adjustable rear camber arm
-Kosei K1 15x7 with BFGoodrich 195/50/15 summer tires

The thing goes through corners and drives straight like a dream, until you hit the throttle. At speed it is not as pronounced unless you let go of the steering when you hit the throttle and then the car wants to dive to the nearest ditch on the right side.

Yes that's important info. It only ever torque steers to the right.

From a stop, in first gear if I gun it without my hands in the throttle the wheel instantly turns 90 degrees to the right.

I have replaced many bushings.
-rear trailing arm bushings
-Front radius rod bushings
Sway bar endlinks and bushings with the sway bar swap
-Upper control arm bushings to the Hardrace hardened rubber ones

The axles are new, not rebuilt axles that were needed because of the larger outboard hub on the DA spindles

I have replaced the engine and trans mounts.

I have aligned it myself multiple times. Front chamber is roughly -1 degree, caster in spec/even side to side, and very slightly toed in up front.

I'm at a loss. Spacing from identifying marks on the body to wheel center are the same all around. The car hasn't been hit to my knowledge and I can't find any evidence contrary.

I could understand if this was some high horsepower fwd car but cmon this is a 72 horse (when new) lawn mower. I understand it had unequal length axles and what that can entail.

I don't remember it doing this before, however most of these modifications took me the better part of 2 years and the car is so much tighter now which may be accentuating a problem that was not as noticeable before.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

EDIT: I cannot find anything loose either. All bolts have been checked, lower ball joints are new, rack bushings are tight, inner and outer tie rods are tight,etc etc
 

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Premium Member
2005 Legacy GT
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1,754 Posts
Traction bar and lower subframe brace can help.

I may have missed it but what condition are the front lower control arms and bushings in?

Maybe a bunch of slop in the steering rack causing it to pull more than it normally would with a nice new one? And is now more noticeable because there's no slop anywhere else absorbing it.

Mostly just spit balling here.
 

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106 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I did a dry steering test and didn't notice any slop in the rack.

The front lower control arms are OE so I might just replace them.

I also ordered a set of all 4 eBay strut brace/lower tie bar braces. I know hinged units are not optimal but I figured for under 50 bucks shipped they couldn't do much harm either.
 

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Perhaps check the radius rod bushings.

If one side is significantly worn, hard acceleration could shift one wheel forward or backwards and cause the car to rotate.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
They've been replaced. However the problem was certainly worse before I replaced them so they definitely helped a bit.
 

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del Sol si '94
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2,539 Posts
LSD cleared up my torque steer, mines make alot more than 72hp lol I also have trac bars.
 

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Classic Man
Civic
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You have worn out or broken suspension or steering parts.

Or maybe your car is broken. The unibody is known to crack around the shock towers and on the inner "frame rail" section of the unibody around the front wheel wells.
 

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1991 Hatch
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I had the same thing appear once I lowered my car. I redid the alignment and it was slightly reduced. They toe out when it's lowered and that seems to aggravate it. I am going to stock ride height again as a test to see if the problem goes away again. I think it might be the tension rod bushings though.
 

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I'd have the car professionally aligned if you haven't already. How's the ride height on the car? Is it pretty even front to back or does it have a rake (or reverse rake) in the height?

I discovered that with the combination of wide offset wheels and the nose being just a bit higher than the rear on my own car made the torque steer on a mild D15B VTEc car downright scary. Just getting the ride height a little better dialed in helped IMMENSELY even before having the car aligned.

Maybe this could be a cause?
 

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dude.. I thought you did alignment by popping the outer tie rod off the knuckle, 360, and back on....

I found this didn't give me the resolution I needed.. And I fucked up the threads on the outer tie rod.. Wtf...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
^^^ You probably did it wrong. You're supposed to rotate the passenger side 360 clockwise and the drivers side 360 counterclockwise. I'd take them loose again and turn them properly two turns the correct way to get things where they need to be.

.............
 
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