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1997 Honda Civic EX
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26 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Wanted to get some input from the guys out there with aftermarket big brake setups on EK's. My car is non ABS and I will be keeping it that way but I want way more brakes than it currently has and more even than just a rear disc conversion can provide me. I will be driving the car very hard and I want it to stop as well as it goes. Anyone out there with aftermarket big brake setups chime in with what you're running and how it performs/longevity/issues, etc. For example, stoptech big brake kit up front, integra disc coversion out back, 4 wheel big brake kit, etc. I would like to hear about what masters are being used with the setups, brake lines, prop valves, everything. I will be redoing the brake system entirely from the master all the way to the wheel including the hard lines as they are ready to be replaced so I would like as much input as I can get.
 

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I am using Integra calipers, VW Corrado 11" rotors on a Fastbrakes adaptor. MC is swapped for 15/16 and prop valve is 4040. Love it! Had it on since 2009.






Caliper doesn't hit rim. Just some scratches from changing pads.
 

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1997 Honda Civic EX
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26 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Do you race your car? Any issues with heat or fading?


I am using Integra calipers, VW Corrado 11" rotors on a Fastbrakes adaptor. MC is swapped for 15/16 and prop valve is 4040. Love it! Had it on since 2009.






Caliper doesn't hit rim. Just some scratches from changing pads.
 

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Classic Man
Civic
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I've gone back and forth from stock 9" to the Type R calipers on 10" rotors.

The resistance to fade is HUGE. I also found the bite on the Type R caliper based brakes was much sharper and more predictable/inspiring.

With that being said I've never done racing with turning, but have done a lot of straight light deceleration with the car doing tuning and it doesnt take long to face the OEM setup. With the upgraded brakes it would take effort to soak them.

Also done my fair share of mountain driving, and the Type R brakes with 10" rotor was MUCH more capable than the OEM 9" garbage.
 

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1997 Honda Civic EX
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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the input but I am looking more along the lines of Wilwood, Brembo, etc. The car will be fast enough and I will drive it hard enough that when I reach for the brakes I don't want to even have the possibility of not having enough. This is something I see a lot of street guys overlook or not give enough weight to. I have always been of the position that my car's suspension and brakes should be 'faster' than my engine. There is nothing more terrifying than a car with a TON of motor that you can't make turn or stop safely lol. I tend to drive the absolute shit out of my 'built' cars so naturally I am hard on things like the brakes. Anyone here ever done a 140+ mph pull in a Civic and then realized you didn't have anywhere near enough brakes to slow you down in a reasonable amount of space? It's not a good feeling! Feeling that pedal go away is not something I want to do ever again.
 

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Subbie Outback
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We did the DA swap in our stage car. Gravel rally really hammers brakes, particularly the front due to left foot braking. The stock brakes went away quickly and we were eating pads like skittles (EBC or Hawk race pads). The 10 inch DA stuff really made a huge difference. We get to the end of the stage and can still stop at time control.

The next step is to go to these
Wilwood® - Acura Integra 1991 Forged DynaPro Front Caliper Kit

Might be something for you to think about. 4-pot calipers at a reasonable price.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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40,422 Posts
ITR/Wagon brakes will be plenty enough, even with Raybestos pads from NAPA...but they are a bit touchy until they get heat into them and the initial bite is lessened.

Stupid show, but the EG of Todd Reid had the above brakes when I rode in it at Mid Ohio, also go to test drive it on the street. It was before the twin cam swap, aero, and such.

 

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Thanks for the input but I am looking more along the lines of Wilwood, Brembo, etc. The car will be fast enough and I will drive it hard enough that when I reach for the brakes I don't want to even have the possibility of not having enough. This is something I see a lot of street guys overlook or not give enough weight to. I have always been of the position that my car's suspension and brakes should be 'faster' than my engine. There is nothing more terrifying than a car with a TON of motor that you can't make turn or stop safely lol. I tend to drive the absolute shit out of my 'built' cars so naturally I am hard on things like the brakes. Anyone here ever done a 140+ mph pull in a Civic and then realized you didn't have anywhere near enough brakes to slow you down in a reasonable amount of space? It's not a good feeling! Feeling that pedal go away is not something I want to do ever again.
Going insanely large on rotors with big calipers is just for show 99.99% of the time, and wont help you a bit on single use emergency stops.

Unless you have shit pads, for a single stop factory brakes are fine on most hondas until your tires pass your brake friction limit, which takes very sticky tires. In fact, upgrading to larger brakes is likely to increase your stopping distance for a single stop due to more rotating weight and less precise control of the brakes, upgading to manual brakes will mitigate this some.

With good pads and stock brakes you can do quite a bit of street braking on relatively level ground before your pads overheat and begin to fade, but if you hit that point getting larger rotors helps a lot. Going from a 9" rotor to a 10" rotor with everything else the same decreases braking effort by about 10% to achieve the same breaking result. That means you produce about 10% less heat for the same braking, in addition larger rotors usually have more mass and surface area, so they can store and shed more heat.
 

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I have the wilwood dpha on my civic and really like them. I have centric rotors with stop tech pads on the rear. 92 civic si didn't come with the larger brakes so I had to change the knuckle out.
 

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EG5T
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The best brakes IMHO are the smallest possible rotors/calipers that you can not overheat. Especially if you are pushing for a record, you really don't want the extra unsprung rotating mass.

Brake pads - people often assume that all non race/cheap brake pads are the same - not true. Some of the cheapest brake pads are waaay better than some of the expensive(non racing) pads on the market. There are cheap pads, capable of taking so much heat, without fading that you will be surprised. Also there are pads, that would fade easily, just by slowing down from 80 to 40.

How resistant are your brakes to fading only depends on the pads and rotors (if everything else works properly).

Servicing the calipers - people often assume, that the brake swap they bought is in good condition. Coz you know, "it looks ok". Calipers that are not being checked/serviced are considered "not working properly"(unless new)by default. All rubber seals, boots, pistons, sliders must be in perfect condition, so you can use their full potential. In my observation, most of the rear calipers need a lot of attention and it makes a huge difference after that, but fronts need to be checked, as well.

MBC - it's all about the pedal travel and the feeling while braking. My 1' Legend MBC feels awesome, though a 15/16 would do the job just fine. No matter how big - it changes almost nothing if the brakes are fading.

Braided lines - they are good for precise braking (also helpful for corners)

Brake stopper - just like the above. During hard braking, the whole firewall, together with the MBC can easily move 8-12mm. DIY one could be done very cheap

With all that in mind, I am using 262fr / 242rr disks, together with good pads(just 50$ for all 4 corners) on a 1050kg boosted EG. I have done 6 pulls 0-100-0mph in a row, the disks were glowing red - no sign of fading. I could not overheat them on the race track either (corners). Would I benefit bigger/heavier brakes or race pads - I don't think so.

Even though you are asking opinions for aftermarket brakes, this is where I would start. Worst case scenario you would need 2 calipers and 282mm disks/pads for the front.
 

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Tape-R taper/driver
EC3, ED8, ED9, EE5
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The Tape-R endurance races with DA front rotors and calipers and EP3 rear rotors and calipers. No cooling ducts and good race pads. We race from 14-24 hours at a time with no fade and can usually get about 36-40 hours before the pads are done (still with material on them, though)
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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SS braid brake lines need replaced every 5 years. I've had two failures on the street.

I replaced them with NAPA OEM style rubber lines, brakes still felt the same.
 

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The Tape-R endurance races with DA front rotors and calipers and EP3 rear rotors and calipers. No cooling ducts and good race pads. We race from 14-24 hours at a time with no fade and can usually get about 36-40 hours before the pads are done (still with material on them, though)
Hows the balance with the 10.2" EP3 rears? That 20% is a pretty huge jump from the stock 8.4" rear rotors.

And did you use the stock calipers with the EP3 rotors and brackets? And what proportioning valve are you using?
 

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The Great Weldini
91 civic
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I am always amazed that I dont see more people removing their brake booster with big brake setups. No booster + 13/16 MC + Larger brakes = win.

Hell I just have EX 10.3" disks up front and the stock Si 8.4 disks rear on my CRX, and my manual brakes are still a little lighter than I would like for my crappy ass 912 ziexs.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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You guys not have the MB6 over there? 282mm fronts and 262 rears, 1" master cylinder and prop valve come on them. Although they are 114 pcd.
Combined with EBC yellows, the stopping power is great and you get no fade, even on track
 
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