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Hi. I need a chipped ecu to run a dohc zc obd1.
I know the oem one is p29. But i cant find any of these ecu . I only want a stock program. Nothing fancy. Just want to run my engine like oem.
If someone can provided me a chip i dont bother soldering it myself.

Right now i will need to supply one because i only have an obd0 ecu and im going obd1 to match the engine.
 

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buy any 92-95 civic/accord/prelude/integra ecu, chip it, and run a basemap for any of the nonvtec engines.

Correct for timing if necessary.

a nonvtec b18 ecu will run that dohc zc just fine. heck, a P06 for a d15b7 will run it fine.

Get a tuning solution so you can get proper timing, or find a dohc zc basemap.

converting the car to OBD1 will improve performance and gasmileage. win win
 

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The Great Weldini
91 civic
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the only way you're going to make that happen is do what i did and it work amazing. chip a ecu.

ECU is a P06, with a P30 base and a P29 map.

USDM ECU P06 - 92-95 OBD-1 Civic DX Non-Vtec (D15b7)
JDM P30 Base - 92-95 OBD-1 USDM Del Sol DOHC Vtec Si/EG SiR (B16a6 I think)
JDM P29 - 92-95 OBD1 JDM EG5 (DOHC ZC)
 

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b18b ecu will run it....if you want to wash your cylinder walls out and have raw fuel spitting out your tail pipe, burning peoples eyes who drive behind you, and get about 160-170 miles per tank of fuel. afr's run at 10.5:1 idle and hit 9 or so at wot with that ecu.

i would convert to obd1 and run hondata s300 v2 , get a basemap from acidbeaver, and get it tuned from there
 

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Thats kind of extreme. Ive ran a fully stock d15b7 with a b18 ls ecu before. It sure ran richer, but nothing like you claim (washing walls)


Id say a dohc zc with pretty much 30 extra hp is gonna run much smoother with the b18 ecu than my ol d15b7.
 

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Thats kind of extreme. Ive ran a fully stock d15b7 with a b18 ls ecu before. It sure ran richer, but nothing like you claim (washing walls)


Id say a dohc zc with pretty much 30 extra hp is gonna run much smoother with the b18 ecu than my ol d15b7.
this was from first hand experience here.

i was getting 18 mpgs ,about 270 km's per tank works out to 168 miles.my compression numbers dropped significantly from when i first cranked it over to when i actually had it running and broken in. it was a pr4 ecu i was running.i had my wide band on the downstream o2 sensor bung on the header and cold idle ran at 10.5:1 leaned out to 11.5:1 warm.

i had people pull up at red lights to tell me how righ my car ran and was burning their eyes.
 

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Ive ran some seriously rich-running setups before, and havent seen internal damage, because I generally shorten my oil change intervals quite a bit during those times.

That d15b7 I had made nearly identical compression numbers between when I first got it, experimented with various ecu's, did some self tuning, tried a junkyard boost setup, had a friend borrow the car for a few months doing long drives, and eventually made its way back to a mild all motor build.

I want to say it was less than a 10psi difference in that long of a span, but that could easily be equipment margin of error, elevation, whatever else. nearly 4 years of ownership.


You must have seriously been slogging that motor and not changing the oil under 1500 miles like I was. I was always overly paranoid my self tuning or BS would hurt the motor.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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Thats kind of extreme. Ive ran a fully stock d15b7 with a b18 ls ecu before. It sure ran richer, but nothing like you claim (washing walls)


Id say a dohc zc with pretty much 30 extra hp is gonna run much smoother with the b18 ecu than my ol d15b7.
I ran a B18 chip with 7500 rpm limiter on a early D15Beast7 version that Locash sent when he socketed the ECU back in the late 90's 40+ mpg to about 25 mpg and it hated to idle. I only ran it for about 1/2 tank of gas because the mileage and cruising throttle response sucked.

But it would get someone home if needed.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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So in under 2 minutes I found a P29-T01 bin and downloaded it....also found P29-Q01 and P29-Q50 in the twiki.

But the P29-T01 might use an IMA sensor for EDM models....info is from 2006 BTW.

Oh yeah, I have no clue what that all means, I just used my Google +9000 powers.
 

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Idk man I'm not lying here. I did oil changes at first 50 miles 100 miles and 1000 miles and the 1000 mile oil change was so black it looked like diesel oil and smelled so strongly of fuel and had not very much viscosity left too it. Also had problems getting the zc to idle nicely with it.. But it sounded knarly as hell with the lopey cams it had. Idled great on s300. I'll post a video later with the pr4 ecu idling
 

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I dunno man.

when it had the b18 ecu, it wreaked like you said, but the crosshatch on the cylinder walls was still fresh looking after the 2nd or 3rd headgasket/cylinder head swap

eventually when it was put back to stock for a buddy who needed a stock drop in, ran like a champ in his 100% stock car.

It is possible I had a sensor issue that was making the ecu think to remove more fuel than normal, or maybe a cheapass intake air temp sensor saying its blazing hot out, who knows lol the issue with the car originally in fully stock form was that it acted very down on power, which got the ball rolling for screwing around with it
 
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