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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so here is what I got, 1994 Honda Civic CX. Here are my goals, 175-195hp will be a daily driver. Keep in mind I got all of these parts for near FREE and by near I mean like under 100$ out of pocket. So please don't flame me saying should just go with full Z6 etc. Thanks guys.

Here is what I am working with:
Fresh D15B7 block, new rod bearings, main bearings, rings, etc.
D16Z6 head complete
P28 ecu
Garrett T25 A/R .48 turbo
Cast log manifold
DSM 390 injectors
Honda resistor box
Intercooler
BOV
Downpipe
Z6 throttle body
No name high flow intake manifold
Full custom 2.5" dump exhaust with resinator and blow through muffler.
Si/Ex tranny fresh rebuilt.
Stage 2 clutch

Plans; I am going to to send the head in Monday to the machine shop for new valves, springs, hot tank, and re-surface. I do plan on getting a tune at a local shop, I don't know much about "chrome, chrome gold, etc..." Just gonna listen to the shop and let them have their way with it. I plan on using this car as a DD so it will rack up miles.

Here are some of my questions:
1) I have heard boosting a mini me isn't exactly intelligent. I have another head off a Z2 (non Vtec) should I just send this head in to machine shop and boost it instead? Then sell the Z6 head.

2) Should I just keep with the Z6 set up and go all motor mini me? (I know HP will be a lot less this way, that is not a huge deal.) and sell the turbo kit.

3) Are mini me's really that dificult? I have heard they are a pain and I have heard they are easy as pie... (mmmmm pie)

Like I said any help will be much appreciated. Thanks Guys!!!
 

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Formerly 95RedVXCivic
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Ok so here is what I got, 1994 Honda Civic CX. Here are my goals, 175-195hp will be a daily driver. Keep in mind I got all of these parts for near FREE and by near I mean like under 100$ out of pocket. So please don't flame me saying should just go with full Z6 etc. Thanks guys.

Here is what I am working with:
Fresh D15B7 block, new rod bearings, main bearings, rings, etc.
D16Z6 head complete
P28 ecu
Garrett T25 A/R .48 turbo
Cast log manifold
DSM 390 injectors
Honda resistor box
Intercooler
BOV
Downpipe
Z6 throttle body
No name high flow intake manifold
Full custom 2.5" dump exhaust with resinator and blow through muffler.
Si/Ex tranny fresh rebuilt.
Stage 2 clutch

Plans; I am going to to send the head in Monday to the machine shop for new valves, springs, hot tank, and re-surface. I do plan on getting a tune at a local shop, I don't know much about "chrome, chrome gold, etc..." Just gonna listen to the shop and let them have their way with it. I plan on using this car as a DD so it will rack up miles.

Here are some of my questions:
1) I have heard boosting a mini me isn't exactly intelligent. I have another head off a Z2 (non Vtec) should I just send this head in to machine shop and boost it instead? Then sell the Z6 head.

2) Should I just keep with the Z6 set up and go all motor mini me? (I know HP will be a lot less this way, that is not a huge deal.) and sell the turbo kit.

3) Are mini me's really that dificult? I have heard they are a pain and I have heard they are easy as pie... (mmmmm pie)

Like I said any help will be much appreciated. Thanks Guys!!!
i don't see why a mini me would be any more difficult than any other build. and you still need a few things or didn't list them. oh, and why are you replacing valve springs and valves? are the valves burned? and whats the deal with replacing valve springs, are you planning on revving to 9k a lot?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
As for the springs and valves, I am just trying to replace anything that may FAIL. Idk kid of a do it all kind of freak. I have pretty much everything I have seen that you need for the mini me. I am just concerned about the BOOST. No reving to 9k prob ever lol
 

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Formerly 95RedVXCivic
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As for the springs and valves, I am just trying to replace anything that may FAIL. Idk kid of a do it all kind of freak. I have pretty much everything I have seen that you need for the mini me. I am just concerned about the BOOST. No reving to 9k prob ever lol
if you are concerned with the stock valves, have a valve job done and the valves lapped, and as far as the springs go, for what you want out of it, you will not have any problems. no more boost than you will be running, you won't have a problem as long as the tune is good. btw, what pistons are in the engine, and are they over size?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
No they are the stock pistons that came in the D15B7, I prob won't have the valves or the springs replaced then. What abou the mini me and boost you think there will be any problems there?
 

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Those are your goles for power? no problem there man , as long as your tuner knows crome and what he is doing no problem at all , here is a couple things i would get :)

- Wlabro 255 fuel pump.
- arp head studs.
- ditch the stock ( in bay fuel system ) get some push lock shit and get rid of the banjo fittings on the rail. ( cheap and very good upgrade )
 

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A mini-me should yield a compression ratio close to 10. It's no different from boosting any other d-series, you're just going to have to be more precise with the tune that's really all.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Those are your goles for power? no problem there man , as long as your tuner knows crome and what he is doing no problem at all , here is a couple things i would get :)

- Wlabro 255 fuel pump.
- arp head studs.
- ditch the stock ( in bay fuel system ) get some push lock shit and get rid of the banjo fittings on the rail. ( cheap and very good upgrade )
Where can I get the push lock set up?
 

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are u upgrading the springs? or just replacing them with oem. looks like oem springs are just a little cheaper then crower or supertech.
and like spoon-itr said arp's and 255 pump for sure
 

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Formerly 95RedVXCivic
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Discussion Starter #12
So according to that CR calculator I should be at 10.22 with all the parts I have. When I entered the boost amount it said 15.78..........
 

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So according to that CR calculator I should be at 10.22 with all the parts I have. When I entered the boost amount it said 15.78..........
you will be fine, so long as your tuner knows what he is doing. what engine management are you going to use, i suggest what your tuner is familiar with or if you are going to tune it yourself, go with neptune or ectune, hondata is good too, but most everyone on here will tell you to go with one of the two.
 

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i really wouldn't push it any more than 200hp if you are going to use this car as your dd. with the stock rods 250hp is pretty much the limit before your engine puks one out.
 

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wow, noobs.

no point in upgrading the fuel pump (especially to a 255lph), oe replacement pump will be fine if you WANT to replace it.

definitely no point in replacing fuel lines. stock lines support 500whp.

valve springs are not a bad idea but more of an insurance policy rather than needed. stock cam wont make power high enough to float them, and higher rate springs just put added strain on the valvetrain.

go with an OEM y8 head gasket, and arp studs for sure.

that compression isnt a HUGE deal, but it is getting up there, make sure your tuner knows your compression ratio before he starts messing with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks again guys. I am def gonna throw that turbo on LOL. I am going to have the tuner decide on management system that way he is most comfortable with it. I will be sure to let him know about the compression as well, really it's not much more than the stock 9.48.
 
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