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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 95 coupe ex, my factory d16z6 gave up the ghost after 250k hard life and six head gaskets lol. Never left me stranded it even, drove from a friends house 80 miles to the shop to change the motor nocking like hell anything over 2500 rpm r.i.p. I was in a jam and my friend found me this little d15b7 y8 head minime for 200 bucks this the motor we will be testing...:)

My z6 already had aem intake, 7lb flywheel, act stage2 clutch, dc 4-2-1 header test pipe. This all this went on the mini me when installed. The y8 head had lots of miles on it and was starting to wear out run good though. It only rev to 6000 and die on power.

With this the d15 made 101hp at 5600 and 99lb of toque at 5000 on the dyno pull that i attendend and ran a 16.9 at 81 mph in 1/4 mile. In daily Car trim 2700 lb or more.

First change
The little d15b7 got new bearings and arp rod bolts and head studs along with a d16y7 head reserfaced .01 and a valve job added comp cam spring and ti retainers for future upgrades. This really made the car come alive. The compression went from 180 psi to 220. We also added 3" exhaust before I went to the track and to the track and with this the car went 16.4 at 83.5 mph more then once.

Change 2 we added cbr 1000 rr itbs and fully tuned it to 7500 on crome gold going to the track wednesday to see what she going to do.

Future upgrades delta 272 cam and then the turbo turbonetics 60 trim ball bearing on 6 psi
 

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92 Civic Hatch
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how are you going to handle the intake plumbing with ITBS, and A turbo set up?

it is possible, just curious what your plans are.... :D
 

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Wow, either you shifted too slow or your engine wasnt performing how it was supposed to. I ran a 16.0 with stock cat, cai, header, stock ecu, and bad ignition timing. You should be faster than what I did at least?
 

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97 honda coupe
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ITB's and turbo = plenum with turbo

No difference except for runner length/entry. However, take a guess witch one is harder to tune...

will it make it spool faster? no.
will it sound cooler? Maybie, if you can hear it through the turbo.
Does it look cool? Yeah.
Does it cost alot more than a standard intake setup? hell yeah

Tell me, if your inducting compressed air from a single plenum , why would you need individual throttle plates to begin with?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Wow, either you shifted too slow or your engine wasnt performing how it was supposed to. I ran a 16.0 with stock cat, cai, header, stock ecu, and bad ignition timing. You should be faster than what I did at least?
Well my 60 foot time were pretty good/average at a 2.2 on street tires and it is a full interior car with spare tire, jack,subs (+75lbs), full tank of gas, and being ex its on the heavy side to start with and I live in florida it was hot the day I took it to the track. I was also limited by my rpm (6000 first time and 6800 second)I was hitting the rev limiter in third at the last 20 or so feet of the track during my second trip. I have sence then taken some weight out of the car.

Well the turbo is ready to be installed but we might up the compression more with some p29 pistons before we go to boost just doing things in small step sense i have most all the parts to experiment with setups I would like to try different cam selections also just depends on money as far as that concerned. I would try all kinds of set ups if you come up with some thing intresting let me know. I have both z6 and y8 minafolds and now itbs. I will post pics of my car and my work when I get home from work.

My goal is to see the true limit of the 1.5 on motor before resorting to boost. I hope to achieve 150whp on just motor alone.

Thanks for the idea on how to boost the itbs. I have the material to make the cap. I would think the difference would be the throttle response. That is the big difference as far a n/a goes for sure I ride around below 10% throttle most of the time to keep the vacume up for fuel mileage because going 25% is like wot on the vacuum gauge I have.
 

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P29s are junk and won't raise the compression on the minime. Just shave the shit out of the head till you get about 13:1 cr. y8 intake with stock tb and a big cam. I'd also run the z6 head since they flow better. That should get you close to your 150whp mark.
 

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I hope that's not complete and the length of those rubber couplers is a bit ridiculous.
 

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I understand what they are but they make for a very unsmooth runners. You would be better with a long aluminum pipe and small amount of rubber and sand the transitions smooth. Otherwise what's the poit of itbs if they are going to be that ghetto rigged?
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
The itbs are sitting on top of the pipe in the hose. The reason the hose is so long is because we wanted to be able to ajust the length of the runners to see how much it would change the power. But the hose started to get sucked In so we just pushed it down fhe pipe more. The hose is fuel filler neck hose from napa 25 bucks for 2 feet. I have also put the stock bike volicity stacks on the itbs also. I have less then 100 bucks in the whole set up.

I'm running the stock bike injectors 240cc and the only thing you have to change is two wire in the tps around because it reads wot when your at idle and visa versa and you have to use obd2 injector clips every thing else bolts up perfect the intake is the cheap eBay one for 100 with the plenum cut off to attach the itbs. I would have tried both the bike and stock injector locations but the peace that you mount the fuel rail to was bent so we cut it off also. I eventually get another one and do it.

The track was close last night do to rain so no new times to report. I also mange to get ahold of some used slicks for the next trip.
 

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What are you tuning with?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
My tuner is useing crome gold and a AEM wide band 02 on my car. You have to broaden the way you view the map so you can see almost every inch of vacuum to pull out the most with the itbs because of how fast they open you can be just accelerating a little And they will go full rich because the map sensor is reading wot
 

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What kind of a difference did you see with just the y7 head swap? I have been thinking of going the swap on mine
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
I love it I have own the car since late 06 and have had 3 vtec heads with no chance of ever reving past 6000 with out the engine sounding like it going to come apart the y7 with out the itbs on stock cam would rev to 6500 all day no problem and with them 7500. The reason I went non vtec is because a friend of mind had a stock d15b7 in a delsol that would go to 7000 all day and sound like it wasnt working that hard going to go there. The stock y7 cam is as big as the vtec cam in a vtec head so it capable of makeing almost as much power As a vtec head
With out the headache of dealing with vtec

It also made a big power difference because I reground the valves and mil the head .01 so the head seals better
 

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Thanks, I have been thinking of swapping the head for a little compression boost. Also maybe the y7 head is close to the y8 as far as quench and with the PM3 pistons and tight quench it should make for a pretty efficent motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Its more like a z6 head Oh and you have to use a z6 cam gear or you won't have any lowend power it will be dead below 3500 rpm and the pick up towards the end of the rpm range. best to have an adjustable cam gear I still need to get one. The timeing still a little off with the z6 gear but still way driveable compared to the y7 or y8 gears that's if your useing the y7 cam
 

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good for you for just jumping in and doing it. thats the best way to learn. if you dont like the results you cna always go back to an intake mani setup.

btw, youre plumber rubber pipe runners arent to long, they look about right imo...well
as long as they seal up good w no leaks and dont restrict airflow going into the head in any places
 

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My tuner is useing crome gold and a AEM wide band 02 on my car. You have to broaden the way you view the map so you can see almost every inch of vacuum to pull out the most with the itbs because of how fast they open you can be just accelerating a little And they will go full rich because the map sensor is reading wot
Thats why you tune with alpha n on itbs and not by map. There is a huge write up on here about itbs. Tons of info from tuning to runner lengths to injector locations.

good for you for just jumping in and doing it. thats the best way to learn. if you dont like the results you cna always go back to an intake mani setup.

btw, youre plumber rubber pipe runners arent to long, they look about right imo...well
as long as they seal up good w no leaks and dont restrict airflow going into the head in any places
I wasnt implying that the total runner length was too long but if it was just a rubber couple of that length it was a poor design.
 
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