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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I am new to posting here but I need some advice for a LeMons race car. FYI on what LeMons racing is, its a race series developed for racing cars with a budget under $500 total(car and upgrades). I have recently purchased a 91 civic with a d15b1. I got it for $350 with a broken timing belt. I haven't looked to see if there is any valve train damage but I am assuming there is.

I need some help with what are some quick and cheap(most important part) mods that will help me get more out of my little car. I have heard going to a D16A6 camshaft will help some but its hard to find those. Also, going to MPFI will also cost too much money for what I am doing right now.

Also, I'm going to be stripping the interior so if anyone wants anything, that comes off the total cost of the car.

I'm pretty well inclined mechanically so that's not the issue, just moneys.
 

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Tape-R taper/driver
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Depending on what judge you get, they can be very familiar with Hondas or not.

The ones that aren't, any shiny bit under the hood will get scrutinized.

Since this is your first race, just put it together as is. You are likely not going to finish the race and if you do, you aren't going to be remotely close to the top. I'd recommend tearing the engine down to the bearings and replace if you need to.

http://www.d-series.org/forums/races-shows-events/197233-91-civic-si-lemons-racer.html
 

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Pretty much nothing. Cheap/simple NA stuff is going to net a tiny amount of power, especially without tuning.

I would put your effort into weight reduction and basic maintenance on the engine, suspension, and brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the input. I figured I wasn't going to go crazy this time but since I am taking the top end apart it would have been a good time to replace a few things to get something out of it.

Any good tips on what I should look for on the car in terms of issues down the road while I'm poking around under the hood? It's got 206k miles on it so it's seen some stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Also Low, what kind of cage did you make? My friends made a halo for their prelude but I wasn't sure which would be best for this car since it's a hatchback.
 

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find a d16a6, d15b2, or d15b7 cylinder head (all same casting, just a6 has slightly better cam)

those will convert you to 16valves, remove the need to rebuild the head, and gain some power. the d16a6 will need a d16y7 or d16y8 cam gear to straighten it out timing-wise

ebay has some $40 timing and water pump kits that Ive put 80k miles on before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I was going to look for and a6 of its cost to the price of a B1 head. I am currently trying to get the crank pulley off and somebody put an aftermarket one on and so there is no hex key. Any ideas how to get this SOB off? My impact isn't strong enough to break it.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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use proper fittings instead of choking off the impact with typical 1/4" fittings.

Same threads.....

 

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Tape-R taper/driver
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I've got an overheated A6 head you can have for the cost of shipping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I wish I had seen that before the holiday. I got a b7 head from a junkyard already. Thank you though.
 

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FYI those judges are tired of seeing and therefore hard on Miata's BMW's and most definitely Hondas. Do something crazy like graft a Yugo body on it and they will be more likely to look the other way on your vtec heads or whatever. I would weld the front differential and lower the final drive if you can afford it. Try fabricating a oil accumulator out of some scrap. I've seen a fire extinguisher used for that. Probably port the oil pump also.
 

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Tape-R taper/driver
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I would not weld the differential on a FWD endurance car that sees concrete and asphalt. You'd be better off running an open diff.
 

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becasue a FWD car has zero need of a fully locked diff OUTSIDE of drag racing.

Even then, most people still have no need since slicks are so damn hard to steer on a locked front axle
 

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Classic Man
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Try to swap on a Z6 head, use a thinner head gasket, use a MPFI intake manifold, probably from a Z6 or Y8. Use a B series throttle body. Get a decent header if you can but ebay will do. Free flowing exhaust, muffle it because hondas sound lame. AEM cold air intake if you can find one cheap or copy the size, its 2.5" dia and goes into the front bumper area infront of the wheel.


That should be it! Will get you over 100whp (maybe up to 110whp) fyi the d15b1 makes like 70whp stock
 

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Tape-R taper/driver
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Because of breaking axles and loosening tie rods?
Because FWD chassis are typically understeery as is, why make it worse?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Try to swap on a Z6 head, use a thinner head gasket, use a MPFI intake manifold, probably from a Z6 or Y8. Use a B series throttle body. Get a decent header if you can but ebay will do. Free flowing exhaust, muffle it because hondas sound lame. AEM cold air intake if you can find one cheap or copy the size, its 2.5" dia and goes into the front bumper area infront of the wheel.
As much as I would love to do all of this, I can't see them falling for this costing very little. I might try and do this one at a time over the next few years. Starting with MPFI. Thank you for the ideas though.

One of the big issues I am having now is I have a non stock crank pulley on it and I managed to break it trying to get it loose. Turns out it is a casted part and cast metal does not like bearing loads. So anyways I need a new one. Is it worth finding a stock one from a junkyard or is a crappy ebay one fine? I don't have AC or PS so I'm not worried about those parts of the pulley. The ability to use the Honda pulley tool would be nice but I care more of if I should look for one with a damper(if the b1 came with it).
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
FYI those judges are tired of seeing and therefore hard on Miata's BMW's and most definitely Hondas. Do something crazy like graft a Yugo body on it and they will be more likely to look the other way on your vtec heads or whatever. I would weld the front differential and lower the final drive if you can afford it. Try fabricating a oil accumulator out of some scrap. I've seen a fire extinguisher used for that. Probably port the oil pump also.
My plan was to do something crazy for it. An idea was put stacks w/ rain flaps (maybe working/maybe not) and make it look like a semi truck with a fake 5th wheel in the trunk. It appeals to my ******* side.

I probably wont weld the diff cause of what Low was saying as well as I can't unweld it. The oil accumulator sounds like a fun challenge though.
 
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