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I'd try to drain out a lot of the 87 and replace with 93. It only takes the slightest bit of detonation to crack a stock piston.

That break in procedure sounds good to me, seems pretty fair.

Before the first start, pull the spark plugs out, pull the ECU fuse, and crank the engine on the starter for at least 10-15s. Better to do it until the oil dummy light turns off, but don't burn out the starter, or battery... This just ensures that the entire oiling system is filled with oil, and that the oil pump won't just sit there cavitating with air in it.

Eye balling is fine, especially with a stock cam. You shouldn't have any P2V contact.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the info! I was at the hondayard by my house today and they were parting out a 90 CRX si that an older man had from the beginning, beautiful, but the cam broke on the d16a6 and nobody wanted it so they parted it out. Saw the bolt on the bottom of the gas tank so I know I drain it. Someone else told me they did not have a drain bolt. It was good luck that I was there, I picked up the Honda rear mudflaps and CRX floor mats, driver's side missing the C and half the R but the passenger side is perfect =)
 

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1) If it were me I would drain it and put 93 in it.

2) Either do what the manual says or what the ring manufacturer says. The first time I broke my engine in I did it the hard way where you accelerate and decelerate a lot without touching the brakes, there is a web site dedicated to this method. My compression was about 40psi lower than it should be so I just replaced the rings and I am going to do it the way that the piston ring manufacturer recommends this time... accelerate at full throttle from 35 to 55mph 10 times, then drive the car normally.

3) You should have oiled the shit out of everything while you were assembling it...

4) You are confusing mechanical timing with ignition timing.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
3) You should have oiled the shit out of everything while you were assembling it...

I had the bottom end assembled for me while I was at school in order to have it ready when I came home. I believe the machine shop used assembly lube, and it appears to have been used quite generously from where it is visible they used it. Is that what you mean by oiling it when assembling? Either way I trust the guy who put it together, he has a well reknowned machine shop in Richmond.
 

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Assembly lube, while super important, is not an acceptable alternative to priming the oil pump.

You might be fine not priming the pump, but why risk it when it takes 15 seconds...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
No I was planning on priming it, I was responding to him saying I should have oiled it during assembly. I have not said I was not planning on priming it...
 

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I mean oil everything that moves... a lot. When I put my engine together I poured oil on everything before I installed it. In school my teacher had us go one step farther than that and gave us a coffee can filled with oil to dip the parts in before installation.
 

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you dont need to let it sit a day before starting back up haha.just change the oil and let it cool down then just drive it around low rpm for a while, work your way up, thats what i did. and alot of decel.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
you dont need to let it sit a day before starting back up haha.just change the oil and let it cool down then just drive it around low rpm for a while, work your way up, thats what i did. and alot of decel.
Okay, the reason he told me for that is to let the seals set. Is this not necessary?
 

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seals dont set by sitting over night. lol no dont wait for over night. waste of time.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Awesome, cause I'm not going to lie I am really eager to get it back on the road. I am studying abroad in Europe this next semester and I would really like to get it running and cleaned up before I leave.
 

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You shouldn't "oil the shit" out of your piston rings and cylinder walls when building the engine. If you do the rings wont seal very well. You will be fine running 87 as long as you have the proper tuning equipment. The combustion chamber is super efficient and you wont have any detention as long as its in the proper AFR and timing is not aggressive. I'm running 94 in mine but there's no real reason for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
You shouldn't "oil the shit" out of your piston rings and cylinder walls when building the engine. If you do the rings wont seal very well. You will be fine running 87 as long as you have the proper tuning equipment. The combustion chamber is super efficient and you wont have any detention as long as its in the proper AFR and timing is not aggressive. I'm running 94 in mine but there's no real reason for it.
Eh see I do not have tuning equipment, I am taking it to get tuned... I have also been told that because this setup will hit around 12:1 compression, 93 is going to be necessary
 

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what model car do you have, some have drain plugs on the gas tank

drain the gas and put the good stuff in, why risk it.

what does a timing light have to do with setting TDC. do you have the timing belt covers on (front and back pieces). if anything retard the dizzy for ignition timing if you are worried about det

prime pump, start motor, run motor at around 2k (like they said) until engine researches operating temp, look for leaks.

shut down the motor and let it sit for a bit. change oil and filter.

trailer car to tuner, enjoy car :)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
what model car do you have, some have drain plugs on the gas tank

drain the gas and put the good stuff in, why risk it.

what does a timing light have to do with setting TDC. do you have the timing belt covers on (front and back pieces). if anything retard the dizzy for ignition timing if you are worried about det

prime pump, start motor, run motor at around 2k (like they said) until engine researches operating temp, look for leaks.

shut down the motor and let it sit for a bit. change oil and filter.

trailer car to tuner, enjoy car :)
Timing Light: I was being retarded, but I now know timing light is not for mechanical timing. =P I have a 1990 CRX si, I looked up under one at the junk yard the other day and saw the drain bolt, so its a go for draining the old gas.

I do not have a trailer, in fact I think the only way I could trailer it would be if I called a tow truck haha. Is driving it completely out of the question? I thought I would want to give it the break in time before I tuned it also? Because the tuner is going to run the car throughout the entire powerband right?
 

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see if the tunner will give you a decent base map, ideal you don't want to drive it until it's tuned, you want to load the rings more then anything and a dyno would be perfect for that if the tuner is using one

two trains of thought on engine break ins

drive it like a grandma for like 2k slow raising the rpms
drive it like you stole it.

2nd more or less being 3rd gear pull in my case and let it engine break back down to like 2k then go again, and again, and so on.

if you are forced to drive it on what map is there, pull timing at the dizzy and feather foot it to the tuner.

oil changes depend on preference some go start up, 500 miles, 3000 miles, and regular changes after that. some go start up, 100 miles, 500 miles, 3000 miles and regular changes after that.

guess a question of what is worth more oil and filter on sale or the engine
 

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With out some way of removing some timing and making sure your in the right AFR your asking for problems. It doesn't matter if you have 87 octane or 93 octane....

As for break in; I primed my oil pump by cranking the engine over with no spark plugs and the ECU fuse removed. After I saw oil in the cylinder head and my oil pressure gauge stared to jump I fired it up. I'm using a new OEM filter and crap ass 5w-30. From the second I stared it up I had my wideband and began tuning the idle. After the car was warmed all the way up and the coolant was bled I shut it down, about 20 mins of idling and messing with the tune. I then changed the oil and filter to the same crap ass 5w-30 and oil filter. Then I drove the car around tuning.... I didn't care how I drove, I worked the tune from mild throttle to full throttle and 1000 km later changed the oil to 5w-50 synthetic.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Aight guys, thanks for the advice. I am going to call the tuner and see if they can give me a basic map... I bought a box of oil, so I will prolly drain after start up, 100 miles, and then 3000... Thanks a bunch!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Aight so I go stuck on the starter solenoid. There are three terminals: The Helms manual is very confusing here. I have the S terminal which goes to the engine wiring harness and I have that one taken care of. However, there are two terminals each with a 12mm nut on the end. One of them belongs to the wire leading back to the starter, and the other belongs to the positive cable from the battery. Here's a picture:

The cable I stuck on that terminal on the left goes to the starter cause that is where I think it was originally... I think I might be working myself up over this a little bit, I just don't wanna do something stupid so close to starting it up. So would the battery cable go on the right?
 
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