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Discussion Starter #1
The Civic is finally finished and has seen some track time! Unfortunately, I'm overheating roughly 10-15 minutes into my 20-30 minute sessions!

I'm running a y7 with a GT2860RS, Virara'd bottom end. The cooling setup includes an oil cooler, Koyo full size rad with one slim fan/shroud on half of the radiator. The other half didn't have enough space for a 2nd fan as the turbo was too tight.

I checked a few ways that may help promote cooling, but I was wondering which ones would have the most impact.

Here's some options I've looked into - if anyone has any other input it would be much appreciated!

  • Hood lift
  • 170* Thermostat
  • Pull fan on front of rad
  • Funnel/Shroud to route air into rad
  • Cut bumper (last resort)
  • Heat wrap manifold, downpipe
Here's pictures of the engine bay, and bonus shots of the car in action since you're all picture whores!







 

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92 Si
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I know D to B is different; but when it comes to cooling its all the same. Heres some tips from my friend who runs a B turbo setup in his EG. As you've already stated you want to run heat wrap on downpipe. He also runs a pusher fan between his radiator and intercooler. His front bumper is still intact. Minus the black shrouding infront of the intercooler. His hood is tilted and the last thing he did for more then his normal run times on the track was to cut an evo style hole into his hood.
 

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nice bro. Even with the full rad still overheating? maybe all the air is going around the radiator? maybe shrouding or 90* deflectors to force ALL air thru rad. no head lift or anythign?
 

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There's also a good thread on H-T on this very topic. I'll try to find the thread. But from what info I've gathered, the consensus is that it's better to create a seal behind the intercooler to the radiator. so all the air is slowed down and force thru both intercooler and radiator. Using something like foam tape can accomplish this.
 

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93 Legend L Coupe.
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You need to make sure the air is flowing through the radiator. You have huge gaps around the radiator and with the fin density of the Koyo rads, you MUST channel air to the radiator. You will like also want to find a way to vent the engine bay of pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
nice bro. Even with the full rad still overheating? maybe all the air is going around the radiator? maybe shrouding or 90* deflectors to force ALL air thru rad. no head lift or anythign?
I think that there's a lack of air flow as there's a silicone coupler with the air filter behind the pull fan (not shown in the above pictures), and an oil cooler and the intercooler taking up surface area in front of the rad.

I highly doubt its a head gasket or head lift.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You need to make sure the air is flowing through the radiator. You have huge gaps around the radiator and with the fin density of the Koyo rads, you MUST channel air to the radiator. You will like also want to find a way to vent the engine bay of pressure.
Some sheet metal ducts forcing air into/through the rad and lifting the hood was my plans for this weekend.

Would any of the other options I listed above have a huge impact in your opinion?
 

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Hood lifts work at low speeds. The base of the windshield is a stagnation point, where there is high pressure. Great for ITBs, not great for trying to vent the engine bay.

DEFINITELY wrap the exhaust bits and consider a turbo blanket. That will certainly help the longevity of everything in the engine bay, as long as you choose proper wrap AND wrap stuff correctly. SS requires chlorine-free wraps. The best wrap I know of for SS stuff is the DEI Titanium stuff. DO NOT overlap it too much. You aren't trying to smother the pipes, just cut down on radiant heat transmission.

I would also recommend fabbing up another top brace for the radiator. one is not enough, IMO. If you are clever, you can integrate the mounts into your shrouds. You want a good seal around all the sides of the radiator to prevent air from going anywhere but through the radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
http://www.d-series.org/forums/diy-forum/147352-diy-2011-mustang-gt500-heat-extractor-install.html

:D

Definitely make some ducting too.

Also, those are long sessions. Full throttle the whole time or a cooldown lap after every couple laps? Even the hardcore road race guys I know only race 15 minute heats with occasional hour long enduros (where a lot of "reliable" race cars show their true colours).
I thought about that, I remember your post from a while back; the issue is that I drive the car to and from the track, and the police in Montreal love to give inspection tickets which I really want to avoid. Nothing screams pull me over louder than a Civic driven by a young guy with a hood extractor :lol:

The sessions are typically 18 minutes with a 2 minute cool down. Time attack sessions are 30 minutes, but typically the first 3-5 minutes is warm up and the last ~5 is cool down.

Hood lifts work at low speeds. The base of the windshield is a stagnation point, where there is high pressure. Great for ITBs, not great for trying to vent the engine bay.

DEFINITELY wrap the exhaust bits and consider a turbo blanket. That will certainly help the longevity of everything in the engine bay, as long as you choose proper wrap AND wrap stuff correctly. SS requires chlorine-free wraps. The best wrap I know of for SS stuff is the DEI Titanium stuff. DO NOT overlap it too much. You aren't trying to smother the pipes, just cut down on radiant heat transmission.

I would also recommend fabbing up another top brace for the radiator. one is not enough, IMO. If you are clever, you can integrate the mounts into your shrouds. You want a good seal around all the sides of the radiator to prevent air from going anywhere but through the radiator.
I've since then added another top brace for the rad, very observant! That picture was when I was first breaking in the motor, since I've added an air filter and a few other details - I should really take more pictures!

Does the heat wraps add as a sink or simply prolong the time before things get heat soaked, or does it actually act as a heat sink? I never quite understood the physics behind that. Heat and mass transfer owns me.
 

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I personally don't like the "slim fans" I ditched mine in leau of the good ol' factory fan and shroud, they move the air the best IMO. I also installed a low temp thermostat and fan switch. the closed loop crossover is around 155-165* for the stock ecu so something right above that should be ok, unless you have a tunable ecu (hondata,neptune, etc) and can set your open and closed loop settings. I also run the mixture of distilled water to coolant to about 2/3 parts water to coolant. I have a tiny engine bay and lots of heat to disperse, and doing all those things seemed to have helped me.

I also had the header and DP ceramic coated that also seemed to keep the heat going in the right direction.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I personally don't like the "slim fans" I ditched mine in leau of the good ol' factory fan and shroud, they move the air the best IMO. I also installed a low temp thermostat and fan switch. the closed loop crossover is around 155-165* for the stock ecu so something right above that should be ok, unless you have a tunable ecu (hondata,neptune, etc) and can set your open and closed loop settings. I also run the mixture of distilled water to coolant to about 2/3 parts water to coolant. I have a tiny engine bay and lots of heat to disperse, and doing all those things seemed to have helped me.

I also had the header and DP ceramic coated that also seemed to keep the heat going in the right direction.
It's a Koyo slim fan with a shroud, it moves the air very well plus I need all the space I can get, the bay is super crowded. :\

I'm running Chrome, I'll have to talk to my tuner about my open/closed loop settings, good recommendation!

I was thinking of getting the Mishimoto thermostat, it's pretty cheap and a super easy install.

I'm running 10 parts distilled water, 1 part coolant to keep things lubed up. Not really supposed to have any prestone since I'm on the track but the way I see it, if you hit a wet spot on a dry track you're spinning regardless.

Ceramic coating is expensive and requires a lot of down time, something I wish I had the money for, but this whole build has been done on a serious budget so that's not something I'll be able to consider.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
If you do end up adding shrouding, I'd like to see what you've done.
I'll definitely be posting updates with my battle against the heat!

It's not a heat sink, it is an insulator. It also cuts down on radiant heat transmission (infrared light, basically) which is how it is most effective.
Understood. I have a feeling it's going to be a pain to wrap while things are still in place. I can't rep you any more, sorry man! :(
 

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I think I paid about 120 to get the exhaust parts ceramic coated, I also think you could fit a stock shroud and fan in your ek. cmon man I roll a 1G and your complaining about things being tight....sheesh
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I think I paid about 120 to get the exhaust parts ceramic coated, I also think you could fit a stock shroud and fan in your ek. cmon man I roll a 1G and your complaining about things being tight....sheesh
Did you see the pictures up top!!

It's also the fact that I'd have to take everything apart and the down time would really suck :(

I'm going to have to check out your build pictures if you have any on here!
 

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I had the exact same fan in 12in form and it felt like it was moving air well but It still ran hot, the guy who helped me with my tune spotted the fan first off and told me to ditch it for the factory, its been smooth sailing ever since.
 

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I think I paid about 120 to get the exhaust parts ceramic coated, I also think you could fit a stock shroud and fan in your ek. cmon man I roll a 1G and your complaining about things being tight....sheesh
I have to laugh, because Arny is certainly right about this. LOL!
 

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I think you'd be better off WITHOUT that full size rad. Get a good dual core half size radiator...

it looks to me like you're effectively cooking coolant on one side of the rad.

Look at your first pic you can see where the radiator is being bent by heat on the turbo side.

At the very least wrap manifold/DP/Dumptube a turbo blanket would prob. help greatly too.

But I really think your biggest problem is that radiator being so close to the exhaust mani/turbo etc.

I'd also recommend coating or vht painting all that jazz instead of wrapping it. I know spoolin recommends that and won't warranty wrapped manifolds.
 
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