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Ksport or AMR

  • Ksport full coilovers

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  • AMR full coilovers

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EJ8
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i have seen good deals for both but wondering what u all think i should get. as u all know i am a noob to suspension but the 98 coupe will be a daily but do some drag and autoX and some road racing at the track. i am thinking 10k in the front and 6k in the rear but still debating on brand. Ksports are much cheaper but AMR comes with lifetime warranty

:confused:
 

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JDM Justin
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can i (we) get some links?? maybe some pics of each?
 

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EJ8
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
sure. here is the official ksport website. On honda-tech they average for about 600 or so. both Ksport and AMR do custom spring rate. o and they come pre hated and ready to do. and AMR are 800. i am debating on either price or warranty. but i think they may be the same but i dunno again i am a suspension noob.

Ksport
http://www.ksportusa.com/products/coilovers.html

here is a pic from a customer on honda-tech.com





only info i have on AMR
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread/1659160
 

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Junk. Pretty paper weights. Go with Koni and GC and you'll have a setup that outperforms that garbage by MILES.
 

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92 Honda Civic VTI
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Junk. Pretty paper weights. Go with Koni and GC and you'll have a setup that outperforms that garbage by MILES.

i dont know y everyone hates the (ksports are essentually D2's) ive had no problems with mine and it handles like a dream. its very neurtal and great on a track. Im running harder integra springs though, which makes it a little harder on the road
 

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"No problems" and "handles like a dream" is nothing compared to thousands of regional championships, spectacular customer support and the standard by which every other budget suspension setup is measured.
 

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"No problems" and "handles like a dream" is nothing compared to thousands of regional championships, spectacular customer support and the standard by which every other budget suspension setup is measured.
i never said they were the bext out there but for what they are and what theyre intended for theyre alright which is the daily driving and the occasional track day. if i were to track my car more id get something with a bit more pedegre
 

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Junk. Pretty paper weights. Go with Koni and GC and you'll have a setup that outperforms that garbage by MILES.
I was "thinking" about going with a coilover route like ksport, bc racing, d2, the likes, but if you say they suck, then I think I may reconsider. After all you are the suspension guru because you actually do tracking.

I was wondering why you say its garbage, and what kind of combo would be a good one? GC and Koni...Yellow, red etc?

Also do those Koni's have ability to adjust the damper softness/hardness levels?

BTW: I was trying to get those KSPORTS but I live in Canada so it's a PITA because of taxes and such. If anyone brings stuff from USA to Canada, hit me up by PM sometimes.
 

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I would also suggest the Koni/ GC combo. I have the Koni Yellow's right now that are fully adjustable which is really nice.
they only adjust rebound
 

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Koni Yellows.

Imagine you have two engines you can choose from. One costs a couple hundred more then the other. The cheaper engine will still move your car along ok and last a reasonable time. If it does have a problem, you're on your own. The other motor makes more power, will last longer, and when you have a problem or question with it, you can contact the manufacturer. Which motor would you buy?

That scenario is a no brainer. The stronger, longer lasting motor with the great customer support. Why is it such a difficult decision to make when it comes to suspension? Why are people content to save a few bucks and buy an adequate suspension instead of a setup that gives class leading performance for under $750?

The only other budget damper I'd even think of running would be Bilstein's. It's a non-adjustable damper but so are those kSports, D2's and similar. Yes, I know they gave you a knob. It does one of three things. 1) Nothing 2) adjusts bump and rebound at the same time 3) adjust randomly, one click "stiffer" actually reduces damping force instead of increasing it or vice versa.
 

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Koni Yellows.

Imagine you have two engines you can choose from. One costs a couple hundred more then the other. The cheaper engine will still move your car along ok and last a reasonable time. If it does have a problem, you're on your own. The other motor makes more power, will last longer, and when you have a problem or question with it, you can contact the manufacturer. Which motor would you buy?

That scenario is a no brainer. The stronger, longer lasting motor with the great customer support. Why is it such a difficult decision to make when it comes to suspension? Why are people content to save a few bucks and buy an adequate suspension instead of a setup that gives class leading performance for under $750?

The only other budget damper I'd even think of running would be Bilstein's. It's a non-adjustable damper but so are those kSports, D2's and similar. Yes, I know they gave you a knob. It does one of three things. 1) Nothing 2) adjusts bump and rebound at the same time 3) adjust randomly, one click "stiffer" actually reduces damping force instead of increasing it or vice versa.
Nice post, very persuasive. Solox, I was wondering if you could help "build spec" my combo? I am willing to learn, especially from a guru such as yourself.

I have a 93 Civic Hatchback (EH2), bone stock right now. What kind of setup do you suggest? Meaning the spring rates for the Ground Controls?

THANKS
 

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No one formula will work for everyone. How competitive do you want to be? How tolerant of a stiff ride are you? What budget are you working with? How experienced are you? How would you describe your driving style? What is the intended purpose for the car? Is it going to be a dedicated trailer queen, or a multipurpose daily driver/autocrosser/DE car/drag car? If it is a dedicated competition car, what kind of racing and what class? If not, what kind of racing and what class? Each one of those questions will play a big part in your final decision.

If you are just looking for a good, general, all purpose setup that doesn't cost a fortune, I'd do 450lb springs front and rear. I'd get a GSR/ITR front bar, and the ASR/Comptech/ST 22mm rear swaybar. I'd lower the car 1-1.5" and trim 1/2" off the bumpstops all around. I'd set toe to zero all around and I wouldn't bother with camber kits. If the rear static camber is too high (this is dependant on your driving style) you can use the washer trick to reduce the rear camber a bit. This is an excellent first setup that will handle quite well, rotate nicely, and ride exceptionally well as well. From there, you can decide where you want to go with it. For example, if you don't want the bigger front bar, use a stock EX/Si front bar and bump the front spring rates 50-100lbs higher.

Your primary concern when working with an EG is that bump travel is nearly non-existent. This means that if you lower the car a lot, you will be forced to run really stiff springs. This in turn forces you to run stiffer shocks, which then drives the cost up and the street driveability down.
 

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No one formula will work for everyone. How competitive do you want to be? How tolerant of a stiff ride are you? What budget are you working with? How experienced are you? How would you describe your driving style? What is the intended purpose for the car? Is it going to be a dedicated trailer queen, or a multipurpose daily driver/autocrosser/DE car/drag car? If it is a dedicated competition car, what kind of racing and what class? If not, what kind of racing and what class? Each one of those questions will play a big part in your final decision.

If you are just looking for a good, general, all purpose setup that doesn't cost a fortune, I'd do 450lb springs front and rear. I'd get a GSR/ITR front bar, and the ASR/Comptech/ST 22mm rear swaybar. I'd lower the car 1-1.5" and trim 1/2" off the bumpstops all around. I'd set toe to zero all around and I wouldn't bother with camber kits. If the rear static camber is too high (this is dependant on your driving style) you can use the washer trick to reduce the rear camber a bit. This is an excellent first setup that will handle quite well, rotate nicely, and ride exceptionally well as well. From there, you can decide where you want to go with it. For example, if you don't want the bigger front bar, use a stock EX/Si front bar and bump the front spring rates 50-100lbs higher.

Your primary concern when working with an EG is that bump travel is nearly non-existent. This means that if you lower the car a lot, you will be forced to run really stiff springs. This in turn forces you to run stiffer shocks, which then drives the cost up and the street driveability down.
Thanks for all the great help Solox, theres really lots to think about. I've been perplexed when I was contemplating the KSports, and comparing them with others like BC Racing, Function Form, but I think I better do it right the first time.

I don't want anything overboard really, I am only 19, in college, and have a limited budget, probably under $1000CAD. This is going to be daily driven, and I plan on taking it on lapping days maybe once or twice a year.

Maybe down the line when I am older I will get into autocrossing, but right now my priorities is my schooling, then I can have some more fun.

I will look into the general all purpose setup you suggested and see what I can come up with. The ITR rear bar and stock front SI bar was what I originally had planned, but the biggest thing I had no idea about was spring rates.

I think I may just end up getting the KONI/GC setup first, and slowly adding the rear and front sway bars.
 

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ya for the money 700 USD u can get yellows and ground controls
 

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I picked up my K-sports for $650 brand new, dont know why people say they are junk? You cant go wrong for the money and everyone who has them has had no problems with them what so ever. Do some searching on HT and see what you come up with...
 
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