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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
FIXED. post #16

My b18 has this knocking or similar noise when it is cold and only when in low rpms. Did a cylinder compression check:
1st cyl) 170PSI
2nd cyl) 179PSI
3rd cyl) 180PSI
4th cyl) 171 PSI

this looks good to me. The engine doesn't burn any oil at all and not smoking. It sounds like there is a bolt inside my head rattling or maybe its something loose outside the engine. It drives me crazy. The engine is perfectly healthy, i dont know what to think. could it be my valves. Should I do valve leash adjustment again?

What clearance you guys adjust your valves? (b18b1)

Here is the video.
Thanks for all the help
Vadim

 

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pop that valve cover off and check the valve lash on the cams, thats what it sounds like to me. the factory service manual states valve lash adjustment should be performed on a cold engine (less then 100*F).

also i use 5th gear to rotate the engine by pushing/pulling the car forward.

make sure the feeler gauge is as flat as possible or you could get slighty false readings, use your index finger to push down on the feeler gauge while holding it in the same hand like you are pointing to something inside the engine, and the other hand with a screwdriver to barely tighten it till it cant move then back off a hair till it slides freely with slight friction.

Valve lash adjustment - Team Integra
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
pop that valve cover off and check the valve lash on the cams, thats what it sounds like to me. the factory service manual states valve lash adjustment should be performed on a cold engine (less then 100*F).

also i use 5th gear to rotate the engine by pushing/pulling the car forward.

make sure the feeler gauge is as flat as possible or you could get slighty false readings, use your index finger to push down on the feeler gauge while holding it in the same hand like you are pointing to something inside the engine, and the other hand with a screwdriver to barely tighten it till it cant move then back off a hair till it slides freely with slight friction.

Valve lash adjustment - Team Integra
thanks so much, Rep for you
I will adjust it ASAP.
How much is slight friction? How much force?
and is it better to have less clearance or more clearance since it is ranged
B18B
INTAKE: 0.003" - 0.005" (0.08mm - 0.12mm)
EXHAUST: 0.006" - 0.008" (0.16mm - 0.20mm)
 

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Do the .003 intake and .006 exhaust thats how my mechanic did it on mines and it never gave me a problem again....0.005 and .008 will make them get loose again it happened to me
 

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Check the lifters to make sure they dont have hardly any side to side movement, we had a z6 head with a bad intake lifter that made a tapping noise until it got warm. The end of it would wiggle a bit over the valve stem.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
thanks for the input everyone, I will adjust my valves and check the t belt slap this coming weekend.
 

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Check the lifters to make sure they dont have hardly any side to side movement, we had a z6 head with a bad intake lifter that made a tapping noise until it got warm. The end of it would wiggle a bit over the valve stem.
D series motors don't use lifters.........EVER!


:3dtard:
 

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pop that valve cover off and check the valve lash on the cams, thats what it sounds like to me. the factory service manual states valve lash adjustment should be performed on a cold engine (less then 100*F).

also i use 5th gear to rotate the engine by pushing/pulling the car forward.

make sure the feeler gauge is as flat as possible or you could get slighty false readings, use your index finger to push down on the feeler gauge while holding it in the same hand like you are pointing to something inside the engine, and the other hand with a screwdriver to barely tighten it till it cant move then back off a hair till it slides freely with slight friction.

Valve lash adjustment - Team Integra
or you could jack the car up a little and remove spark plugs. then get a socket wrench with a 17 on it and turn the crankpulley bolt to turn the motor over.

when you set cyl 1 to tdc it follows as such. 1-3-4-2. you can tell when its on tdc by the markers on the pulley for cyl 1 and the mark on the cam gear. also the rocker should be loose. meaning there is play if you lift up or down on them. i believe its a 1/4 of a turn on the crank pulley for each cylinder once cylinder 1 has been set to TDC.
 

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D series motors don't use lifters.........EVER!


:3dtard:
My bad, I meant rocker arm... :exnbpslap:

All I know is the rocker was pretty freaking loose....and when we replaced the head, it went away.

.....But then the oil pump went out. Which probably explains everything. :dots:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I did the valve clearance the way suggested here and it worked so far. My valves were loose because when I checked for .006 inch intake clearance and .008 exhaust clearence, the feeler had very little to no drag at all. So I adjusted them one size lower. So far after the start, there is no more tapping or this weird noise. I even have the video..

Thanks everyone that helped.
 
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