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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This will be my first full thread about my d16y8 build
just to warn you im wasting a crap ton of money for no reason to go N/A on a d16y8, im planning on posting for the next 6 months pictures and i would like honest feed back, i will have some questions for opinion. so please let me know . thius is going in my 1996 civic ex

first off parts on hand

The Y8 head
-arp head bolts
-crower stage 3 race only cam
-crower springs and retainers
-super tech black nitrate valves
-super tech bronze valve guides
-super tech valve seals
-edelbrock performer x intake mani
-skunk 2 66mm throttle body
-bisi moto v2 headers
-aem cam gear

Bob McKray Performance legend in NHRA drag racing,

he ported/port matched and polished my head and also did a 5 angle valve job

for the block im still waiting on tom from freeway auto supply.

the y8 block
- nippon racing crank for the d16z6 (oil holes on both sides)
- acl race bearings
- eagle rods
- arias racing pistons 11:5 75.5 bore
- Endyn port and shimmed oem oil pump
- act stage 4 6 puck clutch
- fidanza 7lb flywheel

its supposed to be notched and balanced

other misc parts i

-aem cold air intake
-aem oil pressure sensor
-aem air fuel ratio sensor
-aem fuel rail
-aem fuel pressure regulator
-aem fuel filter
-walbro 255
-mishimoto radiator, fan and thermostat
-hondata s300
-skunk 2 magnetic drain plugs
-accel dizzy cap, plugs and coil pack

what am i missing to get the full potential out of this? any thoughts or comments. thank you

im also going to do suspension later on and right now im building a manual rack from my power steering rack and an integra pinion ;)

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
what makes you think i dont understand a simple d series. thanks for the negative morning feedback in the. somebody's hungover and didn't have there coffee. explain your statement. i honestly was just trying to do something different than slapping a turbo on
 

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Asshole
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Ok how about this, throw everything away and get parts for a 1.7l build where you'll achieve your goal of maximum amount of money wasted and most potential for n/a.
 

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Looks like a good recipe.

the bisi knock off header will work, and work decently but theres alot of hp locked up in there. a properly spec'd header is always the way to go, but as always its a hp vs dollar thing.

the tune and the cam is also essential in making smooth hp.

I dont see anything in particular that sticks out, looks like your heading in the right direction good luck.

stratton.
 

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is that a genuine v2 header. if so it will Crack in 3-6 months and you will be blamed by his company for a faulty install. make sure to brace it and run a flex pipe for longevity. it looks like a solid build to me. what rpms do you plan on running to?
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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why did you make 2 threads asking the same thing? is this a tech question thing, or a build thread?
 

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I dont think the OP paid attention to a suggestion above.

a 1.7 stroker with very mild attention to the cylinder head would put you over 150whp pretty easily with no mega high compression
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
yes this is a genuine bisi moto v2 header, to be honest bisi took 10 weeks to send this header to me. they have the worst customer service and i probably will not buy anything else bisi moto. thanks for the heads up. to be honest the welds look like crap and i was not impressed for the price. And for the rpm i want to see 9 grand maybe more depending how the cam does on the dyno im hearing alot of mixed reviews on crower. most people swear by bisi. what rpm do you think i should obtain with the stage 3 cam?
 

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Meat Popsicle
91 CRX Si
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Well it seems like you already know that for the money spent you're not going to see ridiculous numbers on the dyno. The main thing, as it's already been said, is going to be the tune.

Bisimoto is a fucking joke and has left a bad taste in pretty much everyone's mouth that's been here long enough to see things play out. Shitty quality cam cores, lack of cam cards, poor header welds, uneven header flanges, and incorrectly marked cam gears...just from what I can recall. Not that this helps you at all but I suppose it's relevant to your last post.

9000 RPM is pretty optimistic for a SOHC d series. Sure you can rev it that high with your parts list but I'm not sure the cam will breathe well enough to really benefit from that engine speed.

If it were me, I'd focus on lightening the car and finding the smallest wheels that will fit over your calipers and the lightest tires of that size. Wheel wheight doesn't mean as much as you'd think but tire weight, which is the furthest away from the axis of rotation, does.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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NA D16Y8, no need to shim the oil pump for more pressure, but porting it for more flow I can see, esp. with the Z6 crossdrilled crank.

Larry @ ENDYN preached this years ago when he had his TOO BBS, aka The Old One Forum.

Stock Honda thermostat as well, it works perfectly, why fuck with it. I believe Larry still posts over on Speedtalk but I haven't checked in there for a few years.

Also, just because someone could port NHRA heads doesn't mean they know anything about Honda heads, then again others just have the natural gift to "see" the airflow.

Limit the RPM's to 8200-8400 unless this is a trailer queen with a 1500-2000 rpm idle on a "normal" intake, not ITB's....that is coming from Bisi E' before he left his chemical eng. job to start selling parts in 2006.

Why does everyone want to see a SOHC reach 9000 rpm knowing they will be sacrificing power below 6500 rpms? Bisi was seeing 10K 1-2 shift on his destroked D15 (78x80) with ITB's and a wild cam from Web that would eat rocker pads every 6-8 weekends.

As I've stated before, the old Bisi was a WEALTH of info along with Larry @ ENDYN, but that was 10-15 years ago and people started wanted "silver spoon" freebies rather than doing their own thought process.

PS: I hated Larry's posting style at the time (2000-2002?) for not giving the whole answer and making someone think. Guess whose post style I adopted?
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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Well it seems like you already know that for the money spent you're not going to see ridiculous numbers on the dyno. The main thing, as it's already been said, is going to be the tune.

Bisimoto is a fucking joke and has left a bad taste in pretty much everyone's mouth that's been here long enough to see things play out. Shitty quality cam cores, lack of cam cards, poor header welds, uneven header flanges, and incorrectly marked cam gears...just from what I can recall. Not that this helps you at all but I suppose it's relevant to your last post.

9000 RPM is pretty optimistic for a SOHC d series. Sure you can rev it that high with your parts list but I'm not sure the cam will breathe well enough to really benefit from that engine speed.

If it were me, I'd focus on lightening the car and finding the smallest wheels that will fit over your calipers and the lightest tires of that size. Wheel wheight doesn't mean as much as you'd think but tire weight, which is the furthest away from the axis of rotation, does.
ITB's needed at those higher rpm bands, or Kinsler injection setup. Starting with a "pig" of a 96 EX which has 500 lbs or more on my near stock CRX, start with a lighter chassis.

Also the valve springs needed to spin those higher RPM wreck rocker arm faces. Per "old" Bisi the PM3 heads were $25, just for the rocker assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
wow thanks for factual feedback honestly this build wasn't mainly for max hp, its more for show and its a bet that ill beet my buddies audi and mazda 3 speed. thats for my next build with the k20z1 or my h22a. i really tried to weave the experienced from un-experienced with my part list. i truly was fooled with bisi products for a moment. as of for wheels that a really understandable way to look at it. im at 16 right now and was planning changing that after suspensions done to 15. 8200 grand is enough for me i was just hoping for more. high rpms are fun. and for the guy that ported my head it was 600 bucks for all the work he did. iv seen a few port jobs and it looks pretty superior. im currently pulling out my heater core and all that junk in the dash, i was planning on hiding a nice nitrous bottle in the dash were that heater core goes. just an idea to be different, i was going to make the lines as hidden as possible. to be honest i dont want to use the nitrous to much.

so that was my next question for you guys, nitrous wet kit and high compression? is this safe or am i making a time bomb? obviously in my opinion ill need less nitrous to make power in high comp motor i have chosen a nx wet kit.

also my ignition is that going to be enough or is aem direct spark better or msd?

another question also about ENDYN are they no good now? i was planning on sending another y8 head to compare work there, along with my k20 head to have them port and polish.
 

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Asshole
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Using nitrous means you aren't n/a.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
technically, but im not going to be using it. so what does that mean? is the glass half empty or half full?
 

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If it were me, I'd focus on lightening the car . . .
I was thinking the same thing . . . weight is not your friend with a n/a small engines like these.

Bisi was seeing 10K 1-2 shift on his destroked D15 (78x80) with ITB's and a wild cam from Web that would eat rocker pads every 6-8 weekends.
Was Web doing billet cores (4000 series chromoly?), regrinding, or using those crappy looking SADI cores it looks like Bisi uses now?

After running the rocker arm geometry through cam doctor, these engines have an incredibly small window for base circles.

When I build the next CRX engine, I'm hoping to grab a y5 roller rocker setup to get around this :fingersx:
 

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wow thanks for factual feedback honestly this build wasn't mainly for max hp, its more for show and its a bet that ill beet my buddies audi and mazda 3 speed. thats for my next build with the k20z1 or my h22a. i really tried to weave the experienced from un-experienced with my part list. i truly was fooled with bisi products for a moment. as of for wheels that a really understandable way to look at it. im at 16 right now and was planning changing that after suspensions done to 15. 8200 grand is enough for me i was just hoping for more. high rpms are fun. and for the guy that ported my head it was 600 bucks for all the work he did. iv seen a few port jobs and it looks pretty superior. im currently pulling out my heater core and all that junk in the dash, i was planning on hiding a nice nitrous bottle in the dash were that heater core goes. just an idea to be different, i was going to make the lines as hidden as possible. to be honest i dont want to use the nitrous to much.

so that was my next question for you guys, nitrous wet kit and high compression? is this safe or am i making a time bomb? obviously in my opinion ill need less nitrous to make power in high comp motor i have chosen a nx wet kit.

also my ignition is that going to be enough or is aem direct spark better or msd?

another question also about ENDYN are they no good now? i was planning on sending another y8 head to compare work there, along with my k20 head to have them port and polish.
D series have no problem reving high, high within reason. i know of many 9k rpm screamers. only a few of them that make power up there. a friend of mine makes peak power at 8k and it holds pretty well till 9k redline. this is highcompression built d16z6.

There are many factors that need to be addressed to make high peak power and hold onto to it in the upper rpms.

Head flow and velocity.
Intake and exhuast valve size
intake manifold and tb size
cam
compression
header and exhaust.

now i know it seems like i pretty much spelled out almost every part important part on a motor to make power.

its not simple but it is. the complexity comes in finding the right combination.

my all motor d16 currently makes peak whp at 7k, and i shift at 7600rpm. An upgraded intake manifold and header and i will make peak at at least 7600rpm and hold it well past 8k.

7k speaks volumns on efficient job my head work, valves and cam are doing.

Theres alot of info on this website. Theres also alot of guys out there with just as much if not more knowledge in there heads.

Just for some inspiration, my all motor crx d16 with a fully built trans managed to pull on a 2004 audi s4 with the 4.2 v8, from a third gear roll. The audi was no slouch, it had a cf hood, cf trunk, intake, exhaust, suspension. A light weight honda with a responsive motor can be an extremely potent package. d series, b series k series, whatever your flavor, if its built well it will perform.

Gl on your na quest.

stratton.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
working 65 hours a week

sorry for not responding for a wile works got me booked with training new guys been getting crap ton of ot... Car parts :)... anyways thanks for the feed back! so far i have sent back the crower 2 cam in return for stage 3. got the block together and it rotates like no other. i have also managed to take apart my power steering rack took out the metal compression ring. replaced the pinion with an integra pinion. filled it up with lithium grease and put it back together. still waiting for wilwood front brake setup and my ground control coils... back order must be good products. right now i am trying to get some sleep and then time to degree and clay everything. my favorite part:devil:

i have a few questions so far in my quest on researching oil im going to run brad penn conventional 5w30 for the first 3,000 obviously i will be changing it religiously more than most. then i was thinking about runing royal purple 5w30 XPR OIL is this a good idea. oviously on track days im thinking 10w40. but bearing clearences are a little tighter than Honda calls for. your thoughts?

my next question is gasoline. im fine with buying high octane in 55 gallon drums from vp. but from what im hearing is 101 will be suitable for 12:5:1 octane im probably running almost 13:1:1. the guy that built my head said as long as you have a big cam you dont need super high octane. and part 2 to question 2 im running with no cat or emissions control and a wide band from aem will running leaded fuel hurt my engine or other parts. your thoughts

thank you i will be posting more as soon as i get some time off!


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Leaded fuel is for untreated and soft valve seats. the industry changed to hardened seats so leaded fuel became unecessary. Also changing the fuel will change how your tune behaves so tune for the gas you will actually use on a regular basis if this is a daily. if it's a track only car then tune with race gas for max power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
yeah this will be track only, maybe driven few times to work and back. its only 5 miles to work. what type of race fuel would you recommend, im looking at vp racing fuels and i do not know were to begin
 
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