Honda D Series Forum banner

1 - 20 of 37 Posts

·
FAMILY MEMBER #316
Joined
·
2,955 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
so i had a 2004 corolla come in for a basic keyless entry system today. these cars are absolute knockouts to put anything in, keyless entry would be no different. these are only used as a guideline and was done last second because i had to use my blackberry to take pics (sorry). it was really just to get people an idea how to bench prep, test, and route wires while doing security or keyless. i wish it was full blown alarm but you can get the idea.

lay out what you need to install. youll see the brain, main wire harness, LED, and valet switch (used for programming the brains different options)

the installation manual is on the left. on it i highlighted all the wires i would need for the install. as you can see, theres not much involved in a keyless entry. just constant voltage, ignition, ground, power lock/unlock, and parking lights. on the right is the sheet printed out from DEI directechs. it gives approximate wire locations and colors and can save your ASS if youve never done a vehicle before.

here i laid out about all the tools youll need. basics like wire strippers/crimpers, tape, solder, screw gun, etc. i forgot to picture my multimeter but its a necessity. look closely, there are 2 different types of tape in that picture. im going to explain that next...

here you see tape with a yellow center. i think its 3m 33+ and its about $3-$4 a roll and is SIGNIFICANTLY more elastic and sticky than the other tape i will mention next. this tape is more expensive and should NOT be used to wrap your wires. this stuff should be used when you make your solder connections only.

here you can see the tape has a white center. this tape is crap basically. if you were to use both, you would see what im talking about. this is what you use to wrap your wires up because its cheap (prolly .75 cents a roll) and it doesnt hold up as well under temperature extremes. it tears easily and doesnt wrap nearly as tightly as the 33+ tape.

ok now to the bench prep....

first off, plug all harnesses in. then i screw it down to the work table so that i can pull the wires tight and it facilitates wrapping of the wires.

here, i separated all the wires i would need from the ones that i didnt. when you get to some more complicated installs, you can use a TON of wires and it gets confusing quick.

here, you can see where i cut the wires i didnt need. if you notice, i left at least 6 inches of wire because if the customer comes back and wants to add trunk pop or horn honk, im not screwed trying to use half an inch of wire to hook up a relay.

ok....now i can only post 8 pics per post i think so heres a few more. dont post yet till im done please...
 

·
FAMILY MEMBER #316
Joined
·
2,955 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
ok so here i wanted to explain the wire wrapping process a little more. its basically so that if someone were to look at your wires, they cant easily identify the colors. its more important for security but ive made it a habit to do it for everything i install (keyless/remote start/alarm). start off by consolidating all harnesses and tie them to one central part. the goal here is to make this thing look like the roots of a tree where the alarm brain is the "fruit" i guess.

here you can see i wrapped the CHEAP tape around a few times just to create a starting point.

next i isolated my wrap. here, im wrapping the wires i wont need. i do this so that if i have to go back later i can easily see where they are.

here im wrapping the valet switch and LED. normally you would not do this for security, but since its just a keyless its just fine.

finished result of wrapping the valet and LED. i do it like this because when you program options, the LED gives you a visual indication of what menu youre in. basically its easier for me.

here i wanted to show you how i save on the work i need to do. basically, that purple wire is the input for the door locks. so, if you have negative locks, you ground it. if you have positive locks (rare) you hook it up to 12v. since i have to ground the unit anyway, i usually wire this purple wire to the brains ground...one less wire to ground.
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18 Show Content

notice the hole in the ground wire and that i put the purple wire through it. this is how i do ALL connections.
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18 Show Content

finished result. basically just wrapped the purple wire around the black. solder and use GOOD tape. done.

heres another reason why i wrap wires. if you locate the wires before your bench prep (you should always do this...ive just done this car 100 times) then you can know if more than one wire will go to the same spot. here, im wrapping the door locks and parking light wire because they are all located in the drivers kick panel.
 

·
FAMILY MEMBER #316
Joined
·
2,955 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)

once its all done, it should be nice and pretty like this.

you always wanna leave a little bit of the wire exposed so you know what the hell youre hooking up when youre in the car!

kick panel removed. location for a lot of wires
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18 Show Content

ignition column shroud removed. this is usually the easiest place to get ignition and constant voltage.

here i isolated the 12v and ignition wires. i remove the ignition harness from the switch for illustration purposes and it makes it easier to access.

parking light wire isolated. this basically gives you a visual confirmation that the doors have been locked or unlocked. to test this wire, you simply probe your wire with the multimeter. if it shows 12v when you switch the parking lights on, thats the wire.
 

·
FAMILY MEMBER #316
Joined
·
2,955 Posts
Discussion Starter #4

this is how to PROPERLY ground almost anything. youll notice i used a wire brush to scrape away paint.
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18 Show Content

next i use a star washer, self tapping screw, and ring terminal to secure the ground wire. if this is messed up or done half assed, nothing will work or work properly. if you screw it in and the ring terminal can move at all, its a bad ground...start over and use a bigger screw.

door locks, ground, and parking light wires hooked up and finished.

ignition wires hooked up and finished. notice that i zip ties all the wires an inch or so before the actual connections. i do this just to stress relief the connection...this is installer preference.

this is were i mounted the brain. not necessary to hide it this well when doing a keyless, but its a good habit to have.

now you see it...

now you dont. anyway, this car is a walk in the park compared to most vehicles. they are all done the same way though. hope this helps.
 

·
R2.....Zap Balls
Joined
·
5,186 Posts
Very nice, that's the same way I do alarms and keyless entries :TU:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,608 Posts
Not only was this thread well done, I just learned of two people who can give me advice on a good alarm when I get back to the states that I will install in addition to wiring in a fuel cutout! Kudos to you guys. I bought a ching-chong alarm off Ebay a couple years ago and after reading the mix of Engrish instructions and chinese wiring diagram, I just sold it to someone else. This thread has re-motivated me to do it again, but with a better alarm.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,655 Posts
nice write up man :TU:

read the subtitles blackzc he said he soldered them just didnt take a pic of it!
 

·
The Great Weldini
Joined
·
8,901 Posts
gotta love no rats nest. :TU: nice write up.

i'm glad i have duck and crocket(nonmember) that can help me with that. lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,942 Posts
Sick write up!!!! Its a relieving feeling to see someone doing anything electrical correctly. I get high off of it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
723 Posts
Great! Write up! If you don't mind me asking, How much do you charge for an alarm install?
 
1 - 20 of 37 Posts
Top