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Discussion Starter #1
My block is decked and head is resurfaced. Vitara FJ I-beam Y8 motor with stock Y8 head.

I've been pushing coolant under boost for a while now. new headstuds, very conservative timing (tuned by J-K Tuning) I think 10* total. Running a T3/T4 50 trim at 18psi.

Cracked the #2 ringlands twice, both times on the intake side of the piston. On the headgasket, I also noticed it was leaking on the intake side on #2, 3, and 4.

Any suggestions? AFR's look good, car runs good until it blows a hg or cracks ringlands, then I change it and it's good for another 2,000 miles. Injectors are 560cc Evo injectors with unknown mileage.



The other side

 

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Too much timing. Possible causes:

Not setting the base timing correctly.
Not setting the cam timing correctly (a greatly advanced cam can do this to an engine).
Not setting the static ignition advance stupidity correctly.
Low fuel pressure (but that should show up as lean AFRs).
 

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it may say 10 degrees on the tables.... but that doesnt always mean thats what the timing is at there is other factors to include in tuning a car besides adjusting some tables and calling it good....

first off warm the car up get afrs correct for idle then sync dizzy timing to the map.... thats the first thing i do every time i tune a car is sync the dizzy, because if the dizzy isnt in sync with the tables, then those tables mean shit :) it could say 10 degrees on the table, but if the dizzy is say 2 degrees advanced then your running 12 degrees get it :)

also there is other corrections in tuning... ect ign advance ect ign retard... iat ign advance and iat ign retard as well as ect and iat fuel tables that need to be adjusted...

when i tuned a h22 turbo car it made 409 on 14psi the afr was 12.0-11.8 dialed in... but if i did a run back to back the afr would dip to 11.5 because the iat were getting up and it was pulling timing all those tables need to be adjusted :)
 

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Definitely detonation.

Normal causes

Boost spike.

Overheating.

To much ignition advance.

To lean.

Intake valve closing to soon from advanced cam.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Thanks for chiming in everyone.

I have a stock cam and mechanical timing is spot on. As for ignition timing, my tuner first checks it with a timing gun, then proceeds to tune my car.

He's literally tuned thousands of Honda's so I'm leery of blaming the tune - I've had him tune my setup twice now. Also, he gladly went back and checked my timing maps and confirmed that they looked fine. He's a Neptune dealer and tuning for more years than I've driven, but that doesn't mean tuning error is completely out of the question. However personally I'm more keen to think something is wrong with my setup than the tune.

As for detonation, all of the piston tops look great, no signs of any damage. I also checked the plugs and they looked fine.

The injectors may be a possible issue, since I can't confirm the history of them. I just purchased some 800cc Bosch EV14's for my retune once I rebuild it again.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Oh and ring gaps were gapped on the loose side.

What stumps me is that the motor pushes coolant instantly. I could rebuild it, take it for a quick drive and the radiator hoses are rock solid. Add some boost to the mixture and the overflow slowly fills up. I'm torquing new ARP's to 75 ftlbs so I don't think head lift is the issue.
 

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Why are you over stretching and ruining your ARPs.
 

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get injector dynamics 1000 cc get a walboro 240 or bigger... set base pressure to 80psi and enjoy :) should also make more power on id 1000 ive seen dyno sheets comparing injector dynamics injectors to others and the id's always come out on top even just doing an injector swap they make more power :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
My fuel system is like this:
Stock FPR
Stock wiring
Walboro 255
Just bought "ID" 800cc injectors. They're the Bosch EV14's but I believe are the same as Injector Dynamic's.
 

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regardless of how many cars the gut has tuned that don't mean nothing. check your spark plugs for little specs of your piston to. need a magifying glass to usually see.
 

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Post a data log off your Neptune. Do you have any while it was being ran hard. Send me your tune. I'll take a look at your corrections if you want
 

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y8 heads and detonation...
y8 heads and spun bearings...
if only i could make a connection....
 

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it may say 10 degrees on the tables.... but that doesnt always mean thats what the timing is at there is other factors to include in tuning a car besides adjusting some tables and calling it good....

first off warm the car up get afrs correct for idle then sync dizzy timing to the map.... thats the first thing i do every time i tune a car is sync the dizzy, because if the dizzy isnt in sync with the tables, then those tables mean shit :) it could say 10 degrees on the table, but if the dizzy is say 2 degrees advanced then your running 12 degrees get it :)
Doesn't matter as long as you don't change the distributor timing after tuning it.
 

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Probably have it covered, but are you using the same fuel as when it was tuned? Also, do you have a AFR gauge? Has it been calibrated lately? Ignition/fuel might be fine on the dyno, but on the street there is much more load and it might be time to have the tuner go on a street tune with you, and bring a det can or something to have a listen.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
regardless of how many cars the gut has tuned that don't mean nothing. check your spark plugs for little specs of your piston to. need a magifying glass to usually see.
The plugs



Looked like they had white buildup slightly

Post a data log off your Neptune. Do you have any while it was being ran hard. Send me your tune. I'll take a look at your corrections if you want
I just have the chip in my ECU, do you want me to mail it to you? Or I can just drive it to you, I'm in Morgantown WV about 1-2hrs away from ya

Probably have it covered, but are you using the same fuel as when it was tuned? Also, do you have a AFR gauge? Has it been calibrated lately? Ignition/fuel might be fine on the dyno, but on the street there is much more load and it might be time to have the tuner go on a street tune with you, and bring a det can or something to have a listen.
Yup 93 pump. AFR's were in the mid - high 11's in boost. Gauge was calibrated. Tuner dialed in the timing/AFR's on the dyno, then went we went street tuning.

I'm gonna need a retune with the new 800cc injectors anyways, so I'll forward him this thread and voice your suggestions.
 

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which gear are you boosting when it blow?

if it is tuned on inertia dyno especially a dynojet without a retarder, the timing will look ok on dyno but it will cause detonation down the road on higher gear. think wind resistant and higher gear load. some tuner fail to understand this.

i learn this lesson from blowing up 2 4g63, i only have access to dynojet, it can't place enough load on the motor for it to detonate. down the road it blow.
 
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