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Discussion Starter #1
So I've been searching and searching the webs to see if it's been done before. Looks like it hasn't. 2007 crv 2wd currently has a k24z1 (161hp 166 ft lbs ) whereas I want to put the k24a2 (205 hp 161-171ftlbs) in. now I know they made both a manual and automatic version of this engine. This should be a straight swap. engine and ecu but everything else will literally bolt right up. My only issue is the shift points of the tcu (built into the ecu) vs my z1 trans. I'm wondering if they would be incomparable even thought the a2's peak torque comes on sooner than the z1. What are your thoughts on this swap guys.? FI is out of the question because of the wife.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
One more note. Gotta keep the auto trans setup as well. They really don't make a whole lot for the z1. The head has eco vtec and the compression is 9.7:1 vs the a2 with 10.5
 

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look up head gaskets for both and see if a head swap is possible.

not all the K series play nice with each other.

why is the wife concerned what route you go with the CRV? is this your vehicle? or shared?

if shared, leave it alone and find a different car to build. Dont mod the daily lol
 

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Discussion Starter #4
everything about the a2 is different. oil squirters. stronger rods. oversized valves, better intake manifold, bigger TB, more agressive cams with a performance tune vs eco tune. Higher comp pistons. better flowing head. better crankshaft. comes out of the tsx. also larger air passages in the block to reduce pumping losses. the only head that is better is the k20z3 head out of the 08 civic si. this is a shared vehicle but I wanted more power for towing. plan to pull a mini trailer (trying stay under 900 lbs) but would like more umph when we are pulling in the mountains. plan is to add a Trans oil cooler and better brake rotors as well as a larger exhaust to improve the breathing. also have a K&N drop in filter as these engines don't like aftermarket intakes. there also is no Hondata ecu availible for this engine.
 

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K&N is waste of money, dont bother. no measurable power, and the cleanable filter is NOT worth the money as after the 2nd or 3rd cleaning its not sealing in the box and doing its job of filtering very well.

sounds like all you need to really do is throw in some higher compression pistons and maybe port the intake manifold a bit and you will get plenty of extra towing power without having to deal with wiring changes or ecu swaps.

k20a.org is really a better place to ask these questions
 

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Discussion Starter #6
First thing I bought was the new filter. Going to repeat this over at k20.org as soon as I'm allowed to. I'm sure it will be fine but I wanted your guys feedback first. My wife probably won't let me anyways! Lol!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So after some researching I've come up with the following..
While it is possible to physically bolt this engine right in. there seems to be a few hitches.
1 These cars and the TSX come with a immobilizer with a matching key.
2 Also there is no consensus on how the tsx ecu will interact with my gauge cluster.
3 I could use another cluster but it wouldnt fit in the stock location.
So Bolt ons seem to be my only option. maybe the A2 cams as well as the injectors but tearing this motor down is definitely not an option.
 

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I would recommend keeping the bumpstick matched to the ecu for now.

boltons generally dont do a ton on the economy series of honda motors.

a set of very lightweight wheels and a header are probably your two best bets. the header design should be forcused around midrange or low end power, and that generally translates into added gas mileage along with performance.

right now, loosing some weight is going to be an interesting path.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
agreed. going the exhaust route for sure. not sure where I'm going to be able to drop weight. But hey. It should be a fun experience. I know obx makes the only performance header for this car. not a great collector design though. might look into having something custom made.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
This is what I found but the way the pipes merge looks like garbage.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Here is the factory header
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Here's a good question. is it possible to chip a k series ecu without using Hondata? Might have to see about that so I can optimize the power on this car. And also throw some true bolt ons for some NA goodness.
 

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Here's a good question. is it possible to chip a k series ecu without using Hondata? Might have to see about that so I can optimize the power on this car. And also throw some true bolt ons for some NA goodness.
Chip a K ecu? no. never

chipping ended with OBD1 for honda's


you are not going to get ANY sort of realistic power gain on that motor or ecu without tuning. PERIOD.

you are only left with compression increase and breathing mods. nothing else will run correctly on a locked ecu unless you get access via tuning solutions
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Chip a K ecu? no. never

chipping ended with OBD1 for honda's


you are not going to get ANY sort of realistic power gain on that motor or ecu without tuning. PERIOD.

you are only left with compression increase and breathing mods. nothing else will run correctly on a locked ecu unless you get access via tuning solutions
Kinda what I was afraid of. I'm trying to find the ecu pinout schematics for both my crv and a tsx. if they are the same It may very well be a bolt in affair. Not sure yet though. If not then I will resign myself to what I can squeeze out of this engine as is. it does have decent pickup but my biggest concern was the towing factor. It's a shame Hondata won't even touch the crv. there's so much potential from this engine. if they would be willing to unlock this ecu then people could do whatever kind of mods they wanted as you guys full well know.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Funny thing is. the later model crv comes with 187 hp vs 161. this was in fact due to a compression increase. 10.5 vs 9.7 how well do you guys think the stock ecu would handle that kind of a bump with colder plugs to compensate? But it also came with that new integrated exhaust manifold(which I hate). This is a great discussion as I didn't get many answers on both k20.org or crv club. I'm still going to continue to do as much research as possible before I even consider trying anything. everyone says swap in the a2 head but without the ability to tune there is nothing that can be done for major mods. No turbo or supercharging. But as I find stuff out I will update. I want to see what we can do to showcase the abilities of this engine. most guys so far use the block with a different head in the SI or some older civics. but because it's the crv there is no options currently.
 

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the money you would spend on dropping in higher comp pistons would be better spent on getting much lighter rims.

keep it simple man.

either push for tuning support, find a way to GET tuning support (keep in mind ecu swap requires looking into immobilizer issues), or leave it alone and find a cheap project to tinker with

you have a economy based setup.

even my 2013 Fit had severe lack of tuning support, and those sell way more than CRV's and had far more enthusiasts driving them
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I have to agree. also I think ive decided to buy an oem header and have it chopped apart and have custom tubes installed on the factory flanges. no one makes a decent header for this. going with a simple setup but with larger primaries and a true merge in the collector section. this should improve power across the board especially in the low rpms vs a long tube header. Also having a new cat back installed should help as well (though not as much).
 

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Discussion Starter #19
as far as lighter wheels I'm already running on 17 inch steelies to my knowledge there isn't much out there lighter than that. except Rpf1's
 

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HA

my 14" civic steelies are over 18 pounds each.

steel wheels are heavy as fawk


a cheap $3-500 set of 17" alloys will directly replace the steelies. If your CRV uses the square shoulder lug nuts like most of the big hondas, you will need a set of lugnuts to go with a rim change


bigger primaries will probably not help at all in the low revs. longer ones might though
 
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