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This one's for you, Duck.
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2,304 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
For those looking for a list of companies/stores to buy from, look at the last post and sign up at Car Audio Central. They have a huge list of nearly every brand out there divided by category (amps, HUs, etc.) and divided by quality (good, ok, etc.).

Ok, so you want to get into car audio. Great! It's a very fun and very fulfilling hobby. Like any hobby, to get the cool toys, you have to fork over the big cash (sometimes). But that's not where this thread is headed. This thread is meant to inform you of the potential problems and even danger you could encounter should you do something wrong either of ignorance (guilty :roll: ) or on accident (also guilty :roll: ). Keep in mind that this is not the know-all end-all FAQ, there is more information out there. I'm just whittling it down to the most pertinent info so that you aren't confused by all the numbers and gimmicks that companies use. ;) For more info on that, check the very bottom for some links.

We'll go through each component that will start you along your quest towards audio fulfillment: Head units, Speakers/Subs, Enclosures, Amplifiers, Batteries/Caps, Wiring, Sound dampening, installation, and finish off with some good places to buy from and other sites that have more detailed explanations of some areas. So, with all that said, let's begin!

Head Units

The head unit, the brain of your system. Without it, you have no music, only the wind rushing by. This is probably where you'll sink most of your initial budget. Be prepared to spend $300 or more for a head unit, they don't come cheap (well they do, but don't have nearly the usefulness of a well enineered piece).

Things to look for:

Disc reading capability - Some HUs can read multiple audio formats such as CDA, MP3, and WMA. Others can also read CD-RWs and DVDs. Keep this in mind when searching. I love the MP3 feature on mine, since it lets me carry around far fewer discs, and they're easy to replace because i just burn another copy should it get scratched/stolen.

Outputs - All HUs will have some form of output. Whether it be directly to the speakers, or through RCA Pre-Out cables to an amplifier, then to the speakers. (They are called Pre-Out because there is no "power" being delivered from the HUs internal amp to power the speakers (pre= before, output = output; so, put together: before the HU delivers output power). This task is then done by the amplifier.) Most people use the standard wire outputs to power their speakers. While this is fine and all, doing so can lead to clipping (explained later) and ultimately the early demise of your speakers. By utilizing an amp, you can remove this risk, and at the same time provide your speakers with cleaner sound. Some HUs may have RCA outputs for only the sub, or only the speakers, or outputs for everything. It's all up to you to determine how many you'll need to complement your system idea.

Pre-out voltage - This rating is in volts (obviously) and tells you how powerful the signal is coming from your RCA connections to your amp. Typically, a higher number here means cleaner sound, but it's not always the case. Most HUs are rated around 1-3 volts. This is fine and dandy for anyone just wanting to get their car wired, but some "dirt" may come through in the upper volume ranges. Devices known as line drivers can be bought that will increase this voltage all the way up to 15v. Very few amps will accept voltage that high (most cut off around 10v to protect themselves from power surges) so don't go crazy with it, mmk?

Output wattage - This rating will tell you how much opwer the HU can put out by itself. This rating is typically in MAX watts, not RMS watts (a little research can help you find hte RMS wattage). RMS is the wattage that am amplifier can put out constantly, MAX wattage is how much it can put out in bursts. Never go by MAX wattage, it's usually BS anyways. Obviously, the higher the number here, the more power there will be going to the speakers.

Display - Gotta have bling y0. But keep in mind that the display will greatly vary depending on the cost and vice versa. A good display will let you easily navigate menus, check song titles, change the volume, and other simple tasks. Be sure to examine the faceplate carefully to determine where everything is. Note the placement of buttons, knobs, and their intended functions. If it doesn't "feel" right, try another brand/model until you find something you like. Some HUs utilize an "invisible faceplate that when deactivated, will appear to be a flat piece of plastic to passers-by and thieves. Others allow you to remove it, making it useless to anyone who steals it. Also decide whether you want a pass-through style face, or a fold-down style. A pass-through will tpyically have a smaller display size since most of it is taken up by the disc slot.

Sound enhancements - Most HUs will have a "Bass boost" feature. This increases the strength of the bass frequencies (but mostly mid-bass, which easily causes distortion). Some have a simple bass/treble feature to let you change it that way. Other HUs have Equalizers that allow you to fine tune the output to your liking. If you choose the latter, the higher number of bands will give you a broader range of customization when fine tuning your HU. Another type of Equalizers are known as Parametric Equalizers. These let you change the point at which the frequncy is modified (like incresing the setting at 300Hz instead of 120Hz). This lets you really get in there and fine tune your settings to match the properties of your speakers and utilize their full potential.

Inputs - Some HUs will allow you to connect devices (such as CD-Changers) to extend the amount or type of media you can listen to. Some have RCA inputs that you can use to connect your iPod or other player. Some even have adapters that let you interface directly with your mp3 player right from the faceplate! Pretty nifty. :TU:

This one's for you, Duck.
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2,304 Posts
Discussion Starter #2

If the HU is the heart of the system, these are the heartbeat. Speakers provide the transfer of energy from electric impulses from the amp or HU and turn them into sound. By moving rapidly back and forth, they create disturbances in the air known as waves. These sound waves are what we hear every day in class, at work, at home, etc. Low-grade speakers will have a narrow "sweet spot" where they reproduce sound well. Higher-grade speakers will have a larger one, and thus provide better sound.

I'll breaking this up into two sections for subs and door speakers.


Things to look for:

Size - Size matters. Depending on the size of the speaker, the sonic range will change. A larger speaker will be able to reproduce lower pitches than a smaller speaker. Also keep in mind the space you have to work with, your door may only accept a 5.25" speaker, so getting a 6.5" speaker may prove useless unless you wish to modify the stock location to accept a larger size speaker. Also important is the shape of the cone. A circualr design will stay much more rigid and be much more efficient than a ovular design.

Input wattage - This rating (like output ratings) are given in RMS and MAX wattages. You want to go by RMS just like with the HU to determine how to best mate speaker and amp. A higher rating means you'll be able to pump more juice into them and provide a stronger sound (not neccessarily louder). If you want to buy a set of speakers with a slightly lower rating to hold over utnil you can get some better ones, just wait and save for the better ones. Otherwise, you'll have a set of speakers on your hands to get rid of.

Driver Array Design - This specification will tell you how many seperate drivers are built in. The most common type are 2-ways. These contain a woofer, and a tweeter. The woofer takes care of the lower frequencies, while hte tweeter takes car of the higher ones. Multiple designs are available and extend all the way to 4-way (which are completely useless in my book and are just gimmicky to make people buy them). The way the seperate drivers are positioned can weigh heavily on how sound is reproduced. A "coaxial" design is the most common. This is where the tweeter is mounted on a post on the same axis as the woofer (thus, co (same) axial (axis) = same axis). This post runs through the woofer, so it causes some integrity loss. Another design is known as a braxial (or biaxial, "two axes"). This configuration leaves the woofer intact, and mounts the tweeter on its own axis so that the woofer is left to do its job undistubed. The only problem is that these are typically VERY expensive, so you're better off using......

Component vs Coax - Component sets are similar to braxial speakers in that the woofer and tweeter are kept seperate from each other. In this case, however, they are physically seperate as well. The woofer mounts in the standard location, while the tweeter mounts higher up. Doing so greatly broadens the soundstage to completely engulf the listener. Components also have array variants, but they just add more seperate speakers to handle the full spectrum of frequencies. These component sets have what are called crossovers. These devices filter out certain frequencies so that only the correct frequencies will go to the correct speaker. Like braxials, they are more expensive, but much more attainable.

Cone and surround material - The material that the cone is made of is very important. A paper cone is not going to perform/last as well as a ceramic composite cone. The stronger the material, the tighter the sound will be. The surround material is what holds to cone within its excusion range. The stronger this is, the longer the speaker will last. This material also directly influences the quality of sound reproduced.

Impedance - Explained in subs.

Sensitivity rating - This rating tells you how effecient your speaker is. The higher the number, the less power it needs to perform well. So instead of pumping 40w into a speaker rated at 85dB (low range) you can use a speaker rated at 92dB (high range) and get much more sound out of it. Thus, using a higher rated speaker will let you use a slightly less powerful amp and save you money.


Things to look for:

Size - Once again, size matters. The size will reflect how it reproduces low frequencies. The larger it is, the lower it goes, yad yada yada. However, the larger it becomes, the less accurate it becomes. A 15" sub can reproduce much lower tones than a 12" sub, but the 12" will produce tighter bass wheras the 15" will be "boomier" and produce more muddled tones. Also keep in mind where you'll be putting these things, you may find that a 12" may not fit in your car, so measure before you decide.

Wattage rating - Same as speakers. The higher the number, the louder it has the potential to be. I say potential because using a 500w RMS sub with a 150w RMS amp isn't going to do nearly as much as a 200W RMS sub with the same amp.

Cone and Surround material - Once again, same as speakers. A strong surround material is vital here, since these thing move a lot more than door speakers.

Voice Coil design - There are two types of designs: single voice coil and dual voice coil. Single coil is the most common, and the easiest to wire up. Dual voice coil gives you more freedom in wiring options, allowing you to use more subs with a single amp. I'll explain this more in the amps section.

Impedance - This rating tells you the ohmage the speaker creates. Essentially, a speaker is no more than a resistor. Treating it as thus, we can determine how to wire it to our amp. Use this rating when choosing your amp.

Box volume - This spec tells you the recommended size enclosure the sub should be used in. Size matters here too, so be sure your trunk can handle the size of it before you buy yourself into a corner. I'll go more in depth in this in the enclosure section.


There are two basic types of enclosures: Sealed and Ported. They are both exactly as they sound. There are multiple variations on the ported design that we will go into detail in in this section.

Types of Enclosures

Sealed - This type of enclosure is basically a closed box. No holes, no ports. This design will yield tighter bass and will be smaller than a ported design. If you like rock, jazz, or electronic this is the enclosure for you. These enclosures also won't yield as loud a sound as a ported enclosure. Not too many dynamics of this style, since there's only so many ways to make a sealed box....

Ported - This style box open up a pandora's box of variants. The most common is a simpled vented design that uses ports of varying lengths (depending on your sub's specs). These ports "fine tune" the box to the sub's ideal frequency range to make more bass. The next most common style
is known as Bnadpass. This is sort of a sealed/ported hybrid. It has some of the"tightness" properties of a sealed box with the "boom" of a ported box. For more on these and a few other designs go here.

Material - The typical material used to make these enclosures is called MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard). Other materials are sometimes used: plywood, fiberglass, lexan, etc. The denser material, the better. Ideally, people would be making their boxes out of concrete, but that is neither practical nor umm practical. :roll:

Volume - This is the internal volume of the box. This number needs to be as close to the rating of your sub as possible to meet its ideal needs.

That's all for now, I'll complete it tomorow. My brain's kinda frazzled.:noway:

This one's for you, Duck.
Wait, what?
2,304 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)

These are probably some of the most confusing and overlooked portions of a system. I say this because while a high output battery can be very beneficial to a system, a cap can be very detrimental to it. The reason for this is simple: a battery is already accounted for in your charging system, a cap is not. With the remaining "juice" from your charging system going to your battery, car electronics, AND your system, there is little leftover for anything else. When you add a cap to the mix, it very often places a larger demand on your charging system and can lead to failure of your alternator, battery, or worse. So, unless you compensate for this extra load by replacing the stock alternator with a higher amperage model, you could be doing yourself a disservice by adding a cap to your system.

Batteries - what to look for

Basically you're looking for a deep-cycle battery. This means that the battery is capabale of going down to a very low voltage and will still be able to operate many times over. Most of these feature a sealed design different from typical acid batteries. Instead of having the catalyst chambers open, they are sealed to prevent spilling of the liquid, and to reduce the amount of toxic vapors emitted. Some even have a special vent hole that you can use to route the gas to a safe location outisde the cabin. There are many companies and models out there, so do some research and decide what's best for you. Here are a few to get you started:

Caps - What to look for

Before outlining their features, here's a few things that caps really do (and don't do):

A capacitor WILL:

-Stiffen voltage rails. If you experience very brief, momentary periods of high current demand that cause the electrical system to falter only at these rare, peak draw times, then a capacitor will supply the additional current needed (when bass hits) to keep your voltage rails stiff, and prevent damage to the car or audio equipment.
-Increase response times for musical accuracy by reducing delay caused by transient response times between current demands from the amplifier, and response to this by the electrical system. In other words, your subs will respond more quickly, because they don't have to wait for the alternator to supply additional current at the moment of demand. Amplifiers have to provide a very dynamic and quick response many times. A capacitor can ONLY assist in this if the rest of the charging system is up to par.

A capacitor will NOT:

-replace the need for a larger, high-output alternator and/or a deep-cycle battery or batteries.
If your electrical system is inadequate, the ONLY way to fix this, and again I repeat, the ONLY WAY to fix this, is to replace the alternator. This is the SOLE source of electrical current for your car when the motor is running.
When the motor is turned off, the battery then becomes your source of electricity.
When the battery is run down, and when the capacitor(s) is/are depleted, the alternator has to work even harder in order to supply current to the car, the audio system, and also to recharge the capacitor(s) (which deplete very quickly) as well as recharge the car's battery(ies).
So by adding a capacitor to try taking the place of a high-output alternator, you are actually causing more work for your alternator, and causing even more damage to that stock alternator. :TD:
-make your system magically sound 10 times better.

Many people believe that a capacitor adds NO real benefit to an audio system, and this is why you never see before and after demonstrations, or factory capacitor company vehicles at competition events. A capacitor does have it's uses, but it is not a magical fix for a lacking electrical system.

Now with that said, basically there are very few features of a cap. The one you really need to know is the farad rating. To calculate the capacitance needed for your system, you will need to find the peak or max power ratings of your amplifiers, and add those together. This is the only time peak amplifier power ratings are even remotely useful, since a capacitor is only used to cover very brief peak demands, and not cover for the continuous amplifier demands. Take the peak power total and figure 1 farad of capacitance for every 1000 watts of power. Caps typically start at 1/2 farad models and go higher from there. You can also link caps to increase the farad rating. Some have digital readouts on the top that show the voltage draws while in use. And that's pretty much it for caps.

So be careful!!! There's no need to cause yourself more hardship!!

Special thanks to Kiki the Cat for the info provided in this section.


Oh boy, one of my favorite parts. The wiring in your car is very important not only to the power flow for amplifiers, but also to your speakers. In most cases, using the stock wiring is fine, but some people may want to up the ante. ;) Now then, I'll break this into two sections: power wire and speaker wire. Power wire will be for amplifiers and add-on components like equalizers or cd changers. Speaker wire will be for, well, speakers. :lol:

Power Wire - What to look for

There are a few things you need to know before you go out getting heavy gauge wire. The first thing is what will your system's draw be? Add up the total wattage in RMS (NOT Peak) and then consult this chart: This is a very good site with lots of write-ups concerning everything installation wise. Now then, on to features.

Thickness - The heavier the gauge wire (smaller numbers), the thicker it will be. Keep this in mind when figuring out where to run it. Somethimes you may have to get creative in running your wires.

Shielding - This is very important. You want to be sure that your power wire isn't shorting out somewhere as this can cause your system to shut down, or cause a fire. Most companies are pretty good about providing good, solid shielding on their wire, but sometimes looks can be decieving. So be wary of wire or wiring kits sold online, if the proce is too good to be true, it probably is.

Material - The most common material used is spun copper. It is a very good conductor of electricity and also very inexpensive to use. Sometimes you'll find companies using nickel or silver wires, while some do supply better conductivity ratings, they're mostly for show.

Sound Dampening

Sound dampening can make the difference between a 120db run and a 155db run. It can also make your ride a lot quieter by recuding road noise. The material that is used basically acts as a inhibitor to vibrations by making the surface it is applied to more "dense." The reason being is that it's harder to make a thick plate of steel vibrate that a thin piece of sheet metal. Dampening material comes in many thicknesses to allow it to be "tailor fit" to your application. The thicker the material, the better the dampening rating will be. There are several companies out there, the most prominent being dynamat. While they make great stuff, there are other comanies out there that supply the same quality products for much less. Most times it's the same meterial, just repackaged under another name. Some good companies are: Cascade, RAAMat, B-Quiet, Fat Mat and eDead.

What to look for:

What material is used?

Most are a rubber based or butyl based material. Others are tar or asphalt based. I'd stay away from these since they tend to stink up your car in general and especially on hot days. Some people say that these asphalt products don't work as well anyways, so I guess it's a double whammy against them. :lol: Both products will stink a little, but most of that goes away once the glue has fully cured and the material has been through some heat changes.

What style application is it?

There are two styles used: Peel & Stick and Liquid/Aerosol

Peel & Stick is the most popular because of its ease of use. It can cover a large area very quickly and easily with little hassle. It is also easier to apply thicker material with this method than liquid or spray on products. If you choose this style, invest in a small roller. It makes sure the mat fully adheres to small corners or curves.

Liquid or Aerosol sprays are handy for hard to reach areas or areas that you can't get peel & stick to stay in place. There are some products that say they can be used for full applications, but they don't provide nearly the extent of sound deadening that mat style products do. The spray cans expecially leave a lot to be desired. There is really very little inside, so use this for very small, hard to reach areas in trunks or doors.

This one's for you, Duck.
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Discussion Starter #4

There are a lot of dynamics in this aspect of car audio. Mainly: applications. Each person's installation will be different due to different vehicles, equipment, and skill levels put forth during the whole process. There are, however, a few constants that should be followed to not only make your install easier, but also cleaner. :TU: Feel free to improvise on anything you see here. You may find that using your own method may work better than what I put down here. If it works, go for it. :) Just be sure it's safe and done right. One tool you SHOULD invest in is a interior clip removal tool. It looks like a mini-crowbar witha screwdriver handle and acn be had for about $3 at any auto parts store. Makes removing carpet plugs and interior clips a breeze.

Component Location/Installation

Head Units

Now, if you have a newer car (90s+) you can find a harness adapter that will let you plug right into your stock harness and not have to hack anything up. :TU: These can be purchased at pretty much any place car audio stuff is sold. I've even found them at Pep-Boys and Wal-Mart. You'll still have to connect some wires, but there won't be any mutilation of your stock wiring so that you can replace all your aftermarket goodies should you decide to sell your car. Crutchfield is usually a good outlet to get these kits from because they not only send you the harness and dash kit (if required) but they also send you a little "cheat sheet" with detailed instructions and diagrams to help you out if you need it.

Now then, on to installation. Some cars may need to have dash panels or center consoles removed, so be prepared to do a little wrenching to get to where you need to go. Installation is fairly straight forward once you have the old unit out, it's just a switcheroo, a little wire work, slide the new unit in and yer done. If you need one of the dash retrofit kits, then you've got a little more work, but it's usually just putting in a couple screws in some stock holes. If you have any peripherals you need to install, don't lock your head unit in just yet, since you'l have to get back there again. One thing to be wary of, some newer high-end models are boasting larger, more powerful internal amps. If you choose to use this internal amp, you will NEED to use some beefier wiring than the stock wiring in place. Nothing crazy, I think most recommend something in the 12ga range, i'm not sure. Read your owner's manual.


The main thing here is choosing your loaction for mounting. If you have a signal processor (EQ, line driver, etc.) putting it with the amp will make the most sense since it will mean less wiring. If you hvae a CD/DVD changer, mounting it somewhere out of sight is the key there. Most of this is cut-and-dried and outlined in the owner's manual. Some devices have limits of angle of installation and whatnot, so pay close attention to this. Getting power to these devices may require a few more small gauge wires to be run, so be prepared.


Speakers can be a little tricky if you get a hold of a model that doesn't quite fit your car. Sometimes it's just a matter of trimming the plastic basket behind the speaker. Other times you have to cut into the existing sheet metal to make room. Either way, prepare for the worst, and it never seems that bad in the end. The actual installation of the speakers is simple: Take out the screws holding the old speaker in, then unplug the wires from the speaker terminals, plug the new speaker in, and screw it in using the old screws. If you have to cut some metal, make a template (if the speakers didn't come with one) and get to cutting. Just be sure to NOT make an outline of the OUTSIDE of the speaker, or you'll be kicking yourself afterwards. Yay, done. Now if you're using a component set, there a little more work involved.

First, you need to decide on where you're going to put your tweeters. Some cars have little retrofit kits that allow you to install them on your existing a-pillars to keep a clean look. There are a variety of places you can put them: A-pillars, upper door trim, air vents, the list goes on. Basically use what's convinient for you and goes best with your style. When you install them, you'll need a small circular drill attachment (used for making door knob holes) or a steady hand and a jigsaw. Cut out a hole for the tweeter cradle and nestle it into place. Be sure not to mount them too far away from the woofers, as phasing can occur and muddle the sound. Anything over 2 feet and you're going to run into this.


There are two different areas that will be addressed here: Power Wiring, and Audio Signal Wiring.

Power Wiring

Right, so you've properly chosen your amps/components, speakers, and subs, now it's time to connect them all. We'll start with the amps and work our way out from there.

Ideally, you want to run the power wire through an existing hole in your firewall, but, oftentimes those holes either don't exist, or aren't practical to use. So, if that's the case, you gotta make your own. So grab your drill and get creative. Be careful when making your hole, you don't want to puncture anything vital on either side of the firewall, so double and triple check your location to be sure. After the hole is drilled, be sure to install a rubber gromet in it to ensure that the bare sheet metal won't cut through the wire's sheathing. Now comes the arduous task of running the wire from the front of your car, to the back of your car.

The best way to do this right is to take out a lot of stuff: seats, carpetting, center console, etc. With all that junk out of the way, you can get everything placed well and add any sound deadening that you want to as well. You'll want to avoid running power and RCA cables with each other, as this can lead to interference. You'll also want to avoid "high traffic" areas in your car as well (where passengers put their feet, etc.). So keep this all in mind when you are routing your wires. A roll of tape comes in handy here.

If you also chose to install seperate components such as CD changers or DVD players, they need power as well. The good news is that they won't need nearly as thick a cable as amps do. Different components have different draws, so consult the owner's manual to find out what they suggest to use. Typically 18 or 16 gauge wire is used, so if there's nothing listed in your manual, use your best judgement.

Great, now you're all powered up. Now to get some sound going to those speakers.

This part can be kinda tough, especially if you decide to completely replace all the stock wiring. If you choose to do so, you will have to remove a lot more panels and have a lot more patience. Since this is just a beginner's walkthrough, I'll outline the "easy" way of doing it. If you have a sedan where the rear speakers are mounted in the doors, you'll just have to suck it up and do it the hard way, I'll include a few words on that as well for you.

Speaker Wiring

The big issue here is getting signal going to the front speakers. They're all the way in the front, and the amps are all the way in the back. Hmm, how to make ends meet. It quite simple really. All you need to do is utilize the wiring that is already there. All the speaker wires go to where the head unit is, so that's where we'll be working our magic. If you have a sedan where the rear speakers are mounted in the doors, you'll just have to suck it up and do it the hard way

The first step is to identify which wires go to which speakers. Once you have identified all four, connect the Front and Rear channels on each side. Front Left is connected to Rear Left, and Front Right is connected to Rear Right making sure that the + and - wires are matched up (just look for the wires with black stripes and match them up and then match up the wires without stripes). Having done that, go to the back of the car where your rear speakers are. Disconnect the speaker wire from the rear speakers, now connect your new speaker wire to the stock wiring. Now connect your new wire to the amp. Congratulations, you have now connected your front speakers without having to rip out your entire interior. Now for the rear speakers, just take some of your new wire, and run it to the amp in the same fashion, following the wire from the front speakers and attach it to the amp. Awesome, now we're all powered up.

Now for you sedan guys there's no real easy way to do it. Your best bet is to just splice into the wiring behind the head unit with new speaker wire, then run that back to the amp, following the same guidelines as above.

Audio Signal Wiring

Now that we've powered everything up, it's time to route some sound to them. Since all our sound is being generated at the head unit, that's where we'll start. Most (if not all) aftermarket head units nowadays will have RCA outputs, so I'll just outline using those. If you choose to use your stock head unit, you can purchase a line level convertor to make your speaker wires turn magically into RCA outputs.

Now then, when running your RCAs, you have to pay careful attention to where you're putting them. They can very easily get interference from any other wiring (if it's not well shielded) so it's best to isolate them from any other wires in the car, ESPECIALLY your power wires. Now here's a little tip, instead of starting at the head unit and working your way back, start at the amp and work your way forward. This way you don't have 10 extra feet of RCA cable cluttering up your spare tire compartment or hatch area. It'll be easier to zip-tie the excess up front and tuck it away than to try and manage it every time you open your trunk. Be sure to leave yourself about a foot of slack in case you decide to start using a new amp, or decide to relocate your amp.

This one's for you, Duck.
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2,304 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
A few people have asked why there aren't any links to good websites here... so I'm adding them.

Please note that I take no credit for any info posted, nor do I take any responsibility for stuff that could happen by following this advice. - requires a login, but is an AWESOME forum with a great bunch of people and a wealth of info. Especially check out the FAQ section, lots of good stuff there. (good/bad brands list :TU: ) - Great site for tips and tricks about installing various components ranging from cruise control to car alarms. Also has an extensive diagram section. - Has lots of tutorials in easy to understand terms. Covers everything from basic math to home theater.
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