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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
ok, i recently wanted to switch out the isb bearing on a replacement trans i picked up.

it turned well before i disassembled.

when i got the case apart the counter shaft snap ring bearing was loud and loose so i ordered one and finally tonight i got it all back together.

before i put the case back together, the tabs were aligned with the selector and it seemed to work fine. i got the case back together but now the thing wont turn. :bigok:

i feel like an ass like always. so im probly gonna have to split it again of course.

what am i doing wrong here? transzex or any pros help me please.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
the input shaft is stuck basicly. i cant turn it. i need to reopen the case but i will have to wait till i have an opportunity to sometime soon.

there isnt a picture right yet because it would just be a tranny put together...

before i put he case together, the shaft seemed able to turn normally. the gear selector seems pretty hard to move compared to before i put it together.

the one thing i wasnt to clear on was how to align the reverse selector with the two pins that are mounted to two shift fork shafts. it wasnt really explained in the honda civic pdf repair manual or in the diys i found.

i didnt check clearances on the counter shaft assembly after i added its new snap ring bearing. i torqued it to 80lbs. it was the only thing other than the input shaft bearing i changed up.
 

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plain and simple something wasnt aligned right and is binding.. you should see it after seperating the cases.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i m hoping i didnt damage anything. this change out is taking me longer than i originally hoped, but its a second trans so my car is still driving.

When i retry closing the case, do i need to have the gears or selector positioned any particular way to prevent this from happening again?

i ve used carb cleaner to clean up the trans, the helms pdf didnt mention pre-lubing anything, should i? assembly lube or just tranny fluid if so.
 

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The Great Weldini
91 civic
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plain and simple something wasnt aligned right and is binding.. you should see it after seperating the cases.
i did this samething and crushed 5th gear synchro.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Preview pic:
Image A

(this is when i first got the case apart, BEFORE i started switching bearings!!)

I will get some close ups of the aftermath of my case assembly attemp this evening. Doesnt look too bad other than the broken bearing that is NOT shown in the pic above.


edit: My mistake was not seating the snap ring bearing correctly. I tried to get it to pop in briefly without pushing the snap ring back. The ring looked spread open from the outside plug view, but i foolishly 'hoped' the ring would slip over the bearing. **I 'hoped' that bolting the case together would make popping the ring over the bearing eazy-peazy, but the popping i heard was the bearing outer race snapping into pieces. Once i get a new bearing and snap ring, i will make sure to push the snap ring back into its seat first, start trying to put the cover on, and spread it at the same time. And i wont bolt the case until the snap ring is properly seated. I made a mistake once again, but i did learn from it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Image B


Image C


Image D


Image E

Here you can see a concern of mine. The gears dont line up perfectly? is this normal?

Image F

these close ups makes me a little worried... are my synchros really bad???
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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Look at the dog teeth for second gear....TRASH!

Replace that lock ring, getting a new one in is NOT fun. IMHO one of the hardest things to do on a D trans.

The gear mismatch is normal as the countershaft isn't locked into place.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thank you both for the responses. I ordered a new bearing and lock ring last night.

Now 'dog teeth for second gear... TRASH'? can you elaborate a lil more? is it still functional as is? are you refering to pic #1 in the sequence bc i think the flash created a bit of misleading glare..
 

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It will go through the gears but its going to be notchey as Hell. So no to high rev shifting. If you shift like a grandma you will be fine.. when you shift its going to crunch then go into gear like the normal 2-3 shift these trans always have problems with. Hubs aren't cheap, and you may find a good used one since its 2nd gear. If it were 3rd, you won't find a good used one.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
so the hub is bad. the possible donor trans has a bad third gear... you mention 2-3 being grindy the way my sits now. so if i pick up a trans with known bad third, would this work maybe.


so the last close up , i can see the rounded teeth on the silver part ajacent to the brass. is this what to inspect on the donor? if it looks sharp and not so rounded its good to swap?

swapping q: Just slide everything off and replace? do i need to shim or anything potentially?





and heres some more CU's of synchros for your closer examination:
Image G


Image H


Image I
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok here is a potential replacement. I am learning my eyes are not as good as macro shots with my camera. Please let me know what you think.

Image J


Image K
 

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Discussion Starter #19
What about second gear, can i just use this entire counter shaft instead of the original to keep it simple?

deburring the synchro in image J or image K? is this a must? sorry im new to all this stuff and trying to do too much at once.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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STOP!!!!!!

Talk of a newbie swapping gear stacks.....nope, don't even fucking try it.

The last two images show even more blackening.

Fix the stack you messed up.
 
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