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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone.

I just finished getting my y8 rebuilt, and I was wondering what you guys would recommend for oil. I've read a LOT of stuff about minreal vs synthetic on this and other forums, but there isn't much about what to use after a fresh rebuild.

This was actually the second engine in my car. The first crapped out when I spun rod bearing #4 and cracked the block. I was using regular mineral oil (Quaker State 5W30). I suspect I was running low on oil... I swapped in this newer motor with about 50,000 miles on it and started running Amsoil 5W30 full synthetic in it. Had that motor for just over a year until I some how managed to spin #4 bearing in that one too, and I just had an oil change the week before.

I shimmed the relief valve in the oil pump with a 0.030" washer to bump up the oil pressure, and the motor is in the car now. I'm running Quaker State 5W30 for the first 1000 miles, then I'll drain it, and run the next 3000 to 6000 miles with the same dino oil for the break in period.

But what about after the break in period? I would like to keep using the synthetic, but do I really need to? I do like to push my motor and get the revs up high occasionally, so I'm wondering which would be best for a rebuilt y8.

Suggestions?

Thanks.
 

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98 civic
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2,429 Posts
use a cheap ass oil to break in with you dont wana throw away expensive oil. then a nice mobile 5w-30 will be good to your insides
 

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Quit useing Y-blocks. When it happens again use a Z6 or A6, just have to figure out what to do about the knock sensor.
 

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Quit useing Y-blocks. When it happens again use a Z6 or A6, just have to figure out what to do about the knock sensor.
also if the car is obd2, then he will have to figure out what to do with the crank position sensor that is mounted on the Y8 oil pump... or else he get cels like mad not hookin that up. let alone would the motor even run right with a p2p and no crank position sensor?
 

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Could always go OBD-1 (if you can in your area) and solve the problem that way.
 

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go to walmart and grab some supertech 5w30. its the cheapest oil that ive seen, price wise. the bottle also says turbo approved :lol:
 

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97 honda coupe
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Use NON-Detergent oil. Only to break in the rings. After that, switch to whatever oil you would normally use. Non detergent oil helps break in the rings, and helps them seat after they are seated you use detergent oil that protects the slick cylinder walls and broken in rings. Let the engine idle for 15 mins, as the manual asks. Run the car easily for about 20 miles, no redline nothing above about 4k. After that. Let er rip. After about 75-100 miles all together. check to make sure the engine is burning no oil, and isnt using coolant. Has good compression on all cylinders. And then change the oil and filter to detergent oil and a good brand filter. Then your set for life.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Quit useing Y-blocks. When it happens again use a Z6 or A6, just have to figure out what to do about the knock sensor.
Ok... But that's gonna be a bit of problem considering I've already rebuilt the motor. I know that the z6 oil pumps flow better than the y8's, but that's why I shimmed the relief valve to up the oil pressure (found a LOT of great info here about that topic).

Before this motor I picked up a 92-95 jdm D15. What a pain in the ass... We had to try to figure out what to do about the knock sensor and tried locating a place on the block to mount it, and never mind the rest of the incompatible parts. Up here you can't use an OBD1 comp on a newer car, so eventually I just returned the motor and found a y8 for a better price.

Now that it's been rebuit, I'd like to focus on what kind of oil I should use. I got a good source for Amsoil 5W30 at about $20 a gallon, so pretty much only $3 to $4 more than mineral oil. I just need to decide if I would rather continue using mineral after the break in or synthetic.
 
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