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Ummmmm. Isn't the stock fpr at 40psi??
 

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You set you fuel pressure by first starting the engine, disconnecting the vacuum line to the fpr and setting it to between 40-47 psi. Reconnect the vacuum line and it should drop to 31-38. That's coming from my Honda service manual.
 

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i read a while back that stock fp was 27.....47 is for the rc's as per there instructions...and when i put a fuel pressure gauge on my boys old z6 it read 27 w the stock fpr......
 

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Discussion Starter #10
base map on the e manage blue.
i got it down to 60psi, anything lower would lean out.
its been boosted for about 2 1/2 years.
i got a narrow band for free and it would lean out at 1-2 psi of boost.

so i had a z32 fp laying around, put it in. then got a fpr.
never been retuned, never been timed other than factory set. i read i should retard it 2 degrees.

Question: if it needs a tune, better fuel system and the timing retarded, why hasnt it broke yet? dont get me wrong i dont want it to break.

i just dont always thing its good to fix something thats not broken.
 

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dont jinx yourself

my suggestion is trow the narrow band away...and get a wideband...worth every penny....then read the first link in my sig about tuning very helpful! then hook up your laptop and re-tune on tha street w/a buddy

imho 60psi is ALOT for stock injectors! I dont know if id turn my rc's up that high sound like your masking a problem!
 

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base map on the e manage blue.
i got it down to 60psi, anything lower would lean out.
its been boosted for about 2 1/2 years.
i got a narrow band for free and it would lean out at 1-2 psi of boost.

so i had a z32 fp laying around, put it in. then got a fpr.
never been retuned, never been timed other than factory set. i read i should retard it 2 degrees.

Question: if it needs a tune, better fuel system and the timing retarded, why hasnt it broke yet? dont get me wrong i dont want it to break.

i just dont always thing its good to fix something thats not broken.
duuuuuude !

I highly sugest you chip and really tune your ecu. forget emanage piggybacks

Piggy back systems are pointless on a honda.. its so easy and cheap to do things right

And tuning with a narrowband is the worst idea of all

on a z6 with a 45 trim t3 stock injectors i maxed out duty cycle at 6 psi @ 7500 rpm

stock injectors .. thats fine.. turn fuel pressure up to 40-45 and have a tuner wideband tune the car.

i guarantee you wont regret it
 

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you reading off a narrow band??? umm they dont tell you didly shit. stock fp i thought was around 40psi. but most likely your injectors are going to fail on time or another..
 

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you reading off a narrow band??? umm they dont tell you didly shit. stock fp i thought was around 40psi. but most likely your injectors are going to fail on time or another..
if there not fucked already! @ 65psi:thinking:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
everybody keeps telling me the piggy back is shit, and what to do.

I don't like being told what to do unless i ask your opinion.

listen, the car runs fine. (for about 3 years, if there was a major issue it would have blew by now)
i got a free narrow band so what harm would it do putting it in, if anything it will show if im running lean.

so i did show lean. i know it doesn't show how lean but i had an extra fp laying around so i put it in and ordered a FPR.

from where i was when i installed the AFR (i was fine) and where i am now with the FPR, i would like to think that i am in better shape.

I do not want to buy parts that are not a necessity or maintenance. so having it tuned/chipped when it is capable of running with the e manage is a NO, maybe when i have money to throw away.

i just want to keep driving it, take care of the maintenance, then sell it.

I took out my silencer and it started running lean again, but barely before max boost. also the fpr shows 58psi.
 

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everybody keeps telling me the piggy back is shit, and what to do.

I don't like being told what to do unless i ask your opinion.

listen, the car runs fine. (for about 3 years, if there was a major issue it would have blew by now)
i got a free narrow band so what harm would it do putting it in, if anything it will show if im running lean.

so i did show lean. i know it doesn't show how lean but i had an extra fp laying around so i put it in and ordered a FPR.

from where i was when i installed the AFR (i was fine) and where i am now with the FPR, i would like to think that i am in better shape.

I do not want to buy parts that are not a necessity or maintenance. so having it tuned/chipped when it is capable of running with the e manage is a NO, maybe when i have money to throw away.

i just want to keep driving it, take care of the maintenance, then sell it.

I took out my silencer and it started running lean again, but barely before max boost. also the fpr shows 58psi.
WHAT im trying to tell you is that a narrow band o2 sensor guage is worthless. you can absolutley not get an accurate reading. when it says your running lean... do you really think thats accurate when all the other times its bouncing all over the place..?? and as a matter of fact, your prolly running lean the whole time. its ok if you jump your fuel pressure up a little, just say your duty cycle on the injectors your running is at or above 90% at one point of another, increasing your fuel pressure will help with that when your injectors are reaching there peak. but to run 60psi through the injectors, because they are well avove 100% duty cycle is very unsafe... im not bashing you in any way, becuase i could give 2 shits if it blows because your hard headed, ive been there onc before, FMU's and all that bull shit.. i was a ricer once using a narrow band o2 sensor, and think it was accurate. but nope... do a little research on some of the things your doing, which will eventually lead to eating your bearings away, and throwing a rod. but do what you want
 

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Discussion Starter #17
you cant get above 100% duty cycle. i not even sure you can obtain 100% duty cycle.

so your saying i shouldn't turn it up to 60. whats the most i should have it up then?
 

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sry for helping..

my problem is i dont do things "ghetto" its either the right way or i dont bother

you obviously know wayy more about what your doing than the rest of us which is why your asking for help.

When u want the opinion of someone who tunes cars as a job and pays there bills by doing it, you know where to find me.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
sry for helping..

my problem is i dont do things "ghetto" its either the right way or i dont bother

you obviously know wayy more about what your doing than the rest of us which is why your asking for help.

When u want the opinion of someone who tunes cars as a job and pays there bills by doing it, you know where to find me.
i don't know way more, i didn't say that. But from my understanding, its impossible to get over 100% duty cycle because at 100% the injectors don't even close between cycles. you might be able to program but it shouldn't be physically possible.

If it is and im wrong, then please explain. I'm always willing to learn.

I agree the narrow band is useless for tuning, but is trying to get my car form running lean considered tuning?

and still no one has explained why getting the ecu chipped is way better then the e manage. I just read it way better.

I would like your help.
 

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Piggy backs suck .. Heres why

Why piggybacks (vafc, emanage) "suck" by pgmfi:
Piggy Back controllers allow stock ECUs to do things that they normally can't do, like run larger injectors or deal with boost. Remember that piggyback controllers work by altering sensor signals before they get to the ECU.
Most of the time, the primary signal being messed with is the Map Sensor. This is critically important in a Speed Density car. The Map Sensor is used by the ECU to guess how much air is going into the car, and therefore how much fuel to supply in order to match airflow. When you "lean" out a car with an AFC, you are simply decreasing the Map Sensor signal - the ECU responds to the decrease in manifold pressure by supplying less fuel. When you "richen" a car with an AFC, you are simply increasing the Map Sensor signal - the ECU responds to the increase in manifold pressure by supplying more fuel.
The change in fueling happens for a reason: if you look at a fuel table, Map Sensor values correspond with columns. When you increase or decrease the signal from the Map Sensor, you are simply making the ECU use a different column than it originally would have used. (see Understanding Maps if you need some help understanding reading Fuel and Ign tables)
But wait, isn't the Map Sensor used for determining ignition requirements too? When you "lean" out a car with a Piggy Back, you also in all likelyhood advanced timing. When you "richen" a car with a Piggy Back, you also in all likelyhood retarded timing. Look at trends horizontally (as MAP changes) in an ignition table, and you will see why this happens. This helps explain why so many boosted cars running on the "AFC hack" have issues due to excessive ignition advance.
The bottom line: Piggy Back Controllers suck because you cannot independently adjust fuel and ignition. Any changes to fueling will produce a change in ignition too, and often this is undesirable.

lots more info here > http://www.freewebs.com/dtuned/faqinfo.htm
 
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