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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Just purchased a JRSC for my D16Z6. I am in the need of some pictures on how all the hoses hook up. I have Googled everything and no luck

I can figure out a few, but the vacuum ones are a little crazy.

Also need a 4 rib pulley that will run around 7-8 lbs. The one that came with it was bent on the edges.
 

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The instructions for install are out there in PDF form...try teh google again.

WRT the pulley, do some searches on this forum and Honda-Tech and you will find some recommendations of vendors who either have the pulley you are looking for or can fab one up for you. I was looking at a site the other day (can't find the link now, but if I do, I'll come back and add it) for a vendor that sells 3.2, 3.4 and 3.8 inch pulleys.
 

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how about search on here. there is info on a place that makes then up for $95.

other wise find a 6.4" crank pulley and run the 3.4" blower pulley that will give you the sort of boost you looking for.

try this site for instraction.
High Performance Parts and Accessories at JacksonRacing.com
but i think you are asking about the bypass valve. connect it to a vacume source before the blower. there should be 2 below the valve on connector between the S bend the blower inlet. i suggest you remove the the PCV and go to a catch can. and then the only others you'll need is for you brake booster, boost gauge and one for the fuel reg.
 

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The instructions for install are out there in PDF form...try teh google again.

WRT the pulley, do some searches on this forum and Honda-Tech and you will find some recommendations of vendors who either have the pulley you are looking for or can fab one up for you. I was looking at a site the other day (can't find the link now, but if I do, I'll come back and add it) for a vendor that sells 3.2, 3.4 and 3.8 inch pulleys.
waiting for that link!!! i need a bigger pulley for my setup! 11 ps would be AWESOME
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The instructions for install are out there in PDF form...try teh google again.

WRT the pulley, do some searches on this forum and Honda-Tech and you will find some recommendations of vendors who either have the pulley you are looking for or can fab one up for you. I was looking at a site the other day (can't find the link now, but if I do, I'll come back and add it) for a vendor that sells 3.2, 3.4 and 3.8 inch pulleys.
I have the PDF instructions. Just wanted to know if there were any better pics of where stuff goes. Im emailing ASP Racing on a 4 rib pulley now. Thanks
 

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Just bought a 3.4 from ASP Racing. Bought a steel one. Aluminum is 4 weeks
got the same reply from ASP when i emailed them, aluminum pulley would need 3-4weeks fab time

however, i was quoted a price of $105 an increased of $10 compared to the 2010 price of $95

if you don't mind me asking, how much is the price of the steel pulley? thanks

btw, Moss sells the 3.4 jrsc pulley for $148
 

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On a side note, the JR pulleys have a spot to use a wrench to hold the pulley while you tighten/loosen the bolt. ASP pulleys do not so a good rubber faced woodworking clamp or rubber strap wrench is necessary to tighten the ASP pulley
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have read through all of the instructions. Install wont be until I get the new pulley. I have 2 questions on these vacuum nips in both pics
These two, One goes to the FPR and the other gets blocked off or it goes to the FMU. Also where does the stock 90 PCV go? Gooseneck nipple



These 2.. One goes to the Purge Cut and the other goes where?
 

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Meat Popsicle
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On the A6 kit the two on the manifold went to the FPR and the firewall mounted MAP.

The two on the inlet went to the bypass valve and the throttle body dashpot.

Don't run a PCV valve and don't connect the black box to the s-tube. Run a catch can. You might have to adjust the throttle plate stop screw for it to idle correctly if you plug the inlet on the front of the s-tube.
 

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1) mine goes FPR and boost gauge, but i also see the port for the air temp sensor is blocked off.

2) one goes to by pass and the other to firewall mounted map.

i said before as well, dont run the PCV go catch can.

Preludepatrick: what is a TB dashpot?
 

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Meat Popsicle
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Not all models have them but it's a vacuum diaphragm that prevents the throttle body from slamming shut. Slows it down a little as I understand it

Some models don't use that type of IAT sensor (y7/y8 I believe) so it's blocked off.

Make sure the manifold connections go to the FPR and MAP sensor if you have a firewall mounted unit. Not sure if all models have the remote MAP sensors or if the later models used ones that were integrated into the TB
 

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ah ok so thats what thats called. saw it on a odb0 D16a9 turbo CRX that i was trouble shoting over the weekend. never seen it before.

i blocked of my stock map and run tube to it. and zip tied it down on the firewall. well that was last time. now i have the tuck and have to re think it.
 

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Hi, may i know the reason why a catch can is preferred over the stock PCV?

swich, will the MAP sensor see boost if it is connected to that location (just before the inlet)? i read that the manifold is where the MAP should be connected to see boost and not vacuum

thanks
 

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him you right... but then some thing is wrong, in my head. my map see boost. but the map's pipe does come from some where there.
ill check whats going on.
 
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