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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys more noob questions

Above where the IACV mounts on top of the S pipe there is a hole, Im pointing at it in the picture below, its plugged with a bolt at the moment, What is this hole for, was I correct to plan on plugging it?


ALSO the TB in this picture is from an automatic and has the IACV on the bottom of it rather than on the back of the intake mani, I have a OBD1 IACV Im going to use with my P28 conversion, I read in another thread where a guy drilled holes in his intake mani and made a place for the IACV and he said that the TBs were universal and he just blocked the place on the TB for the IACV with a piece of carbon fiber, if you look closely at the pic I sandwiched a piece of black plastic in between it and the TB and just left it on there, do those of you who are experieced think this is OK?
 

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this is what mine has there my Y8 was an auto, and it has a freankenswap manual, Its been given me all sorts of trouble figureing out what I need, Im trying to make the manual conversion complete (for the most part)


what D is that jrsc for?
 

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Meat Popsicle
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What in the world is that thing? is it connected to the bypass valve diaphragm?

The manifolds are pretty much the same as far as I can tell.

My kit was the very first rendition of the JRSC kit for a D16a6. The later kits incorporated the bypass valve differently.
 

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Meat Popsicle
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doesn't look like the Y8's had the same fast idle solenoid so I really can't comment. I'm sure someone here has a VTEC JRSC setup that can contribute to this.
 

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well that fast idle/Iacv looks like its from a 150i odb2 setup. the set up where the air box sits above the intake. those TB where crap. and they where small.

alow thats kit to breath. find a nice B16 60mm TB.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
well that fast idle/Iacv looks like its from a 150i odb2 setup. the set up where the air box sits above the intake. those TB where crap. and they where small.

alow thats kit to breath. find a nice B16 60mm TB.
no Ive seen those, my intake had a plenum and the TB was pointed at the passenger tire, I agree I do want a bigger TB tho...
 

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this is what mine has there my Y8 was an auto, and it has a freankenswap manual, Its been given me all sorts of trouble figureing out what I need, Im trying to make the manual conversion complete (for the most part)


what D is that jrsc for?
That thing there looks like the same stuff that came with my used jrsc setup. It was just a pressure switch that was connected to a fifth injector. I thought it was just a hack that the previous owner did, but maybe it is something that came with some of the kits? I'm not 100% sure if it is the same thing, but if I'm right, you wont need it at all (you are going to use a chipped ecu, right?).
 

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this is what mine has there my Y8 was an auto, and it has a freankenswap manual, Its been given me all sorts of trouble figureing out what I need, Im trying to make the manual conversion complete (for the most part)


what D is that jrsc for?
that piece he is pointing at is a pressure valve. its junk you dont use it. i just left it there because i had nothing else to plug the hole up with.

that pressure solenoid is used to trigger a solenoid to your ecu to richen up the fuel when you hit boost, but its junk dont tune your car this way. although thats how jrsc tells you to do it. trust me and you can ask others on here. dont tune with fmu or anything other than a chipped ecu or somethign of the sorts.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
ok so that thing is not needed, awesome, BUT I still dont know if I need a Fast Idle Solenoid and in the install guide it also mentions a purge cut solenoid which I dont have either... are these things that manual Y8s had and do I need them
 

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auto and manual has nothing to do with it. really. the motors are the same. the gearbox is whats diff with the odd other sensor.

the only thing you need for the SC kit is a belt and pulley bracket. tunable ECU and bigger injectors. as long as the bypass valve is working its a simple system from then on. the IACV and Fast idle treat as if the car was NA.

just make sure you map sensor is in a place where it see's boost.

i have never had a purge cut solenoid and if you get a b16 TB you dont have a fast idle valve to worry about any way, you can bypass it with the water pipes.( ie iacv ti the intake side of the head)

got it? need pic's ill take some tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
auto and manual has nothing to do with it. really. the motors are the same. the gearbox is whats diff with the odd other sensor.

the only thing you need for the SC kit is a belt and pulley bracket. tunable ECU and bigger injectors. as long as the bypass valve is working its a simple system from then on. the IACV and Fast idle treat as if the car was NA.

just make sure you map sensor is in a place where it see's boost.

i have never had a purge cut solenoid and if you get a b16 TB you dont have a fast idle valve to worry about any way, you can bypass it with the water pipes.( ie iacv ti the intake side of the head)

got it? need pic's ill take some tonight.
I would appreciate pics, if my questions seen silly and irritating Im sorry and thanks for your patience

I started this thread to know if I needed to do anything with the hole with the bolt sticking out of it (in the pic) I know I need the 2 wire IACV for obd1 tuning, I just want to make sure Ive got things right
 

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i have a few vids on youtube. swich69 search for them and you can then see my setup.


mine is bolted off at the top like yours. sadly my home pc was stolen and i no longer have photo's for you of the complete setup. but as a say its a simple task. just make sure the map sensore sees boost. the rest of the stuff is crap.

do a google search for images. D16 jrsc


hope that helps.
 

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I'm running no Fast idle thermal valve (the thing under the tb), and no fast idle solenoid (the thing on the back of the manifold with two wires) on both my civic and wagon. On the civic I cant get it to idle fast when its cold, but its idling perfect at ~1000rpm, so I dont need it anyway. On the wagon the idle is at 1500rpm when cold and ~800 when warm, without any of the fast idle thingy's... Both cars are chipped and tuned. I would just try running without them and see how it works out first.

Just make sure you have a working iacv, iat sensor, that the map sensor (and fpr also) gets signal from where it sees boost (like swich already said), connect the bypass valve to somewhere after the tb and plug all open holes and you should be good to go :)

Edit: and dont forget about the crankase venting. Make sure you hook it up so it doesnt see boost!
 

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I'm running no Fast idle thermal valve (the thing under the tb), and no fast idle solenoid (the thing on the back of the manifold with two wires) on both my civic and wagon. On the civic I cant get it to idle fast when its cold, but its idling perfect at ~1000rpm, so I dont need it anyway. On the wagon the idle is at 1500rpm when cold and ~800 when warm, without any of the fast idle thingy's... Both cars are chipped and tuned. I would just try running without them and see how it works out first.

Just make sure you have a working iacv, iat sensor, that the map sensor (and fpr also) gets signal from where it sees boost (like swich already said), connect the bypass valve to somewhere after the tb and plug all open holes and you should be good to go :)

Edit: and dont forget about the crankase venting. Make sure you hook it up so it doesnt see boost!
FPR. dont waist your time. bigger injectors and a good tune.

pcv must not see boost but better then that is a catch can.
 
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