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1997 Civic DX Hatch
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Discussion Starter #1
okay so i had my d17y8 finished. i ran it for like a year all was good.

list is as such.
y8 block. bored to 75.5
d17 crank, pistons and rods
y8 head ported
shaved head
flat faced valves.
crower 3/4 race NA cam
jrsc at 5psi

it was slow and i knew it but still lots of fun. so i started re tuning it trying to make adjustments adding some timing in my boost ranges and what not.

well this happend



it toasted the crank.

well i was able to get my hands on an other crank and also got the rod cleaned up at the machine shop.

ive been spending lots of time cleaning out all my parts getting the shaving out of everything. (the oil sup was full of shards)

oil pump got toasted. i bought a used one then replaced the rotating part and put it in the old housing since it was already ported and stuff.

was taking apart the head to clean it up and naturally i get another surprise.





every exhaust lobe is pitted. all the intake lobes are fine. not sure what the deal with that is. im gonna guess poor oiling but not sure why that would just be an issue on exhaust side so i think either valve lash was too tight or issue with the camshaft itself.

so anyway im trying to get this engine back together in 2 weeks. i plan to add water meth to the equation later on so im gonna go ahead and tap for it and have it ready. im getting married on the 26th of september and want it done before that. so wish me luck and ill be posting more pictures soon with more updates.
 

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Love the Civic
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Damn, hate when they eat shit like that, deff in for updates where meth is involved. I dig the JRSC setups for the power line, I know turbos go big, but those just put power down flat.
 

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1997 Civic DX Hatch
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Discussion Starter #4
Damn, hate when they eat shit like that, deff in for updates where meth is involved. I dig the JRSC setups for the power line, I know turbos go big, but those just put power down flat.
yea me too lol.

ive got another cam lined up but it is smaller so im a bit sad but its cheap and it will do for now i can change it later if i decide to.

honestly i debated switching to turbo but this is a lot of fun to drive and i dont have the money for turbo parts right now lol.

You know what they say about meth? "Not even once"

Jk. But bummer man. I am in for the added meth kit and congrats on the 26th.
lol right.

yea it sucks the meth stuff will be coming after the wedding. right now im saving best i can for it and still have money to do the whole honeymoon thing and buy car parts lol. thanks for the congrats man.
 

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1997 Civic DX Hatch
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983 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
okay so update so far.

i ported my king main bearings on all the ports.



got the block put together. had some issues with the rod bearing clearance but its gonna be good enough. have one that is a wee bit on the loose side so hope it stays intact.





so as you know the cam is now junk. emailed crower but have yet to hear back from them.

so i had a couple options. either put in stock cam...nope. buy a used 272 or something. or use the cam i purchased for my turbo drag car im building. this cam is the biggest d16 cam crower makes... yea i think ill use that one.

so i put it into the head and checked clearances.



so checking p2v clearance. i found that with my head thats shave .025" along with a 2 layer head gasket (both so i could reach 11:1 cr) with the valve lash set to .006I and .008E with the cam gear set to 0 the valve crushed the clay so tight i could see through it on the intake side though it would turn over all the way. exhaust side didnt even touch the clay.

so did some reading on my cam card and such found that 4* advance have been ground into the cam. so i retard the cam 3* and also am running full 3 layer head gasket. in total i have about .070" p2v now on intake side. still no touch on the exhaust side.

so then i started getting stuff set up for the water meth kit on the manifold.

i drilled it out and tapped it and plugged it. i will take the plug out and put the jet in when that time comes.




then got this done today.


got some crazy valve tick. i adjusted it once already and its still crazy clicky. so tomorrow i will adjust it again then tune on it.

i have the water meth kit im my possession i just have no pics of it right now.

will get some tomorrow.

so in 2 or 3 weeks ill be installing it and tuning it up. will keep everyone posted.
 

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Can you please elaborate on why you're injecting directly into the manifold and not pre throttle body? From my reading I've read that pre TB is the ideal way. Aloha
 

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1997 Civic DX Hatch
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983 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
okay so fixed my valve lash issue.

thing sounds good.

ran it did some tuning. got it running pretty good.

seems low end is poor i think thats cause i had to retard the cam 3* if i could advance that i think id gain some power plus i think i have room to add some timing in all the boost ranges to gain some.

here are a couple rippper vids.
http://youtu.be/j5Jeu9anBQ8
http://youtu.be/8VFS78PSSU0

also as promised a couple pics of the water meth stuff.



so just a teaser.

will hopefully start installing water meth stuff come october. but the car is up and running for my wedding saturday and thats what i needed.
 

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1997 Civic DX Hatch
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Discussion Starter #10
i emailed the company and asked if my positioning idea would work and they said it looked like it should work well and distribute to all ports well. they never said anything about angling the jet or anything.

not saying your wrong but the company never said anything about it.
 

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the reason is the jackson racing super charger.

if you inject pre super charger the methanol will go through the root super charger and the methanol will eat away at the seals.

this way i bypass the charger and dont damage it.
Makes sense. Thanks!

Btw watched the vids. Sounds good!
 

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Yes, I hope for us to get this in the Dyno sometime this winter. I think low rpm has a lot more in it right now, just gotta figure out how to drag it out.
 

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I'm not trying to hijack this thread but I want to ask a few questions about d17y8. I'm in the process of building a d17y7. I'm wondering about rod to block clearance issues. The. Top of the rod bolt looks like it's almost touching the bottom of the cylinders. My question is should I clearance the bottoms of the cylinders or just the sides of the cylinder walls where the rod touches? And how much clearance do they need? I read somewhere that these motors shouldn't go over 7000 rpms. But in ur video it shows way over that.
 

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We have taken this motor to 8500 on many occasions, but it has arp rod bolts. If you do a little searching, you will find the information you requested
 

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Meat Popsicle
91 CRX Si
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2,931 Posts
Man, I wish I could hear my supercharger whine like that. Probably the biggest disappointment of my entire build...no whine, even when the thing spins at 16000 RPM
 
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