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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey, everyone. I ended up buying a JDM B20B today instead of a B20Z. My reasoning was because the guy (from a reputable shop) told me its a somewhat rare one for them that isn't too far off from the high compression one (no one had the high compression one, and were not getting one for a while). Its a 98 JDM B20B for sure going off the stamps. The only thing that was weird is that it came with an LS styled manifold. He said it came out of a wagon type car (Couldnt remember the name) and that it wasn't the low comp one. He said multiple times it wasn't the 8.8:1, and that it wasn't the high comp 9.6:1. He claimed it was the 9.2:1 one.

I'm happy with the 9.2:1 specs. How do I confirm that it IS that though?
 

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the artist formerly known as drexelstudent11
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check the back of the block for the knock sensor. You got an 8.8 I'm 99% sure - the only 9.2s were the P8Rs

the Orthia came with the b20b with the LS manifold (which is what I have myself)
 

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Even the P8R 9.2 is questionable..

All depends on the piistons used. The 9.2 uses PHK pistons as well the dished P3F pistons.

P8R has 47cc combustion chambers thus lowering compression so 9.2 and 8.8 can be had with a P8R. Just depends on the piistons used. Bringing one of those cameras in the spark plug hole would help identify the casting on the piston if you can see it thru the carbon.

The 9.6 is the P75 45cc chamber used with PHK pistons.
 

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From what I remember the real benefit from the P8R head (vs the P75 head ... same one from B18b) is that the combustion chambers matched the cylinder bores. The p75 head the combustion chamber edges were on the inside of the bores. Also IIRC they have 1mm larger intake valves than the P75 ... but you can still use cams that would fit the P75. If it is low comp swap in some B20 sized Type R style pistons and call it a day.
 

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the artist formerly known as drexelstudent11
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I've read that some orthias came with the p75 as well. What other car would have the low manifold? Its straight from a vehicke in japan, so idk. I'm going to check for the knock sensor. I'll take a pic if I can not find it lol.

Worst case...how bad is the low comp?
I did a quick google this morning to satisfy my curiousity, seems like the Orthia was the only JDM B20B that didn't come with the giraffe.

it's not bad at all, torquey as hell.
 

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the artist formerly known as drexelstudent11
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From what I remember the real benefit from the P8R head (vs the P75 head ... same one from B18b) is that the combustion chambers matched the cylinder bores. The p75 head the combustion chamber edges were on the inside of the bores. Also IIRC they have 1mm larger intake valves than the P75 ... but you can still use cams that would fit the P75. If it is low comp swap in some B20 sized Type R style pistons and call it a day.

it's not bad at all, in fact its ideal, it just gives you better quench to have an undersized combustion chamber
 

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The P8R has 33mm Vtec sized intake valves and 47cc combustion chambers.

Best thing would to shave it a little and bump up the compression.


The P8R flows close to a B16 head. So it is the best version of the non vtecs.. I happen to be using this head.

The P75 has the worst flow and needs alot of work done to make it worthy. So much work that swapping in a P8R or vtec would probably yeild better results.
 

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P8R heads are the shit. The handle full of stock p8r head b20's ive seen on the dyno yielded very good numbers. ~145 whp is fun when you make torque to match.
 

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the artist formerly known as drexelstudent11
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The P8R has 33mm Vtec sized intake valves and 47cc combustion chambers.

Best thing would to shave it a little and bump up the compression.


The P8R flows close to a B16 head. So it is the best version of the non vtecs.. I happen to be using this head.

The P75 has the worst flow and needs alot of work done to make it worthy. So much work that swapping in a P8R or vtec would probably yeild better results.
swapping a vtec head always gives the best results :punk:
 

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P8R heads are the shit. The handle full of stock p8r head b20's ive seen on the dyno yielded very good numbers. ~145 whp is fun when you make torque to match.
Even better when you mate up the right parts and get over 170 tq. :TU:

I want one of these or a b20/b18 headed motor for my sedan when I get to the motor part of fixing my dd. Have a few things in line first. Seen 200 hp/180tq versions tuned NA, with some minor changes internally, and bullet proof.
 

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Well, I did a little port work on mine and with 11.2 compression and some street cams, its putting down 190/160 est at the crank. 166/142 at the wheels.


So the torque is a little better with a non vtec head vs the vtec head. So your basic daily, Id be looking at torque curve over HP numbers.

Ive been thinking of swapping my P8R for a Vtec head just to see what all the fuss is about. Im sure id be in the 13's on CR.
 

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^Food for thought.
 

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it's not bad at all, in fact its ideal, it just gives you better quench to have an undersized combustion chamber
Ah good to know. It's been a while since I did any reading about this (pretty much since I decided to boost the D instead of doing a B swap). I was under the impression that the 3mm smaller combustion chamber "bore" was actually or at least potentially detrimental. It would seem to me that a diameter that much smaller than the piston could do really strange things.

Time to get reading I guess.
 

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the artist formerly known as drexelstudent11
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Well, I did a little port work on mine and with 11.2 compression and some street cams, its putting down 190/160 est at the crank. 166/142 at the wheels.


So the torque is a little better with a non vtec head vs the vtec head. So your basic daily, Id be looking at torque curve over HP numbers.

Ive been thinking of swapping my P8R for a Vtec head just to see what all the fuss is about. Im sure id be in the 13's on CR.
a stock headed CRVtec is right around ~165whp, you put anywhere near the same amount of prep you put into your p8r head and you're at 200whp
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
So, i've been doing some more research and here are all the JDM B20Bs. Im not sure which one I have at all still. I know its not 9.6:1 because I do not have a knock sensor. Which JDM b20b would be mine though considering it came with with the low manifold?

JDM B20B's (taken from Japan's Honda website):
96-98 Honda Orthia
143 HP, 132 ft/lbs TQ
9.2:1 compression

96-98 Honda Step Wagon
123 HP,133 ft/lbs TQ
9.2:1 compression

99-00 Honda Step Wagon
134 HP, 136 ft/lbs TQ
9.6:1 compression

96-98 Honda CRV (two variants)
128 HP, 136 ft/lbs TQ
8.8:1 compression
143 HP, 132 ft/lbs TQ
9.2:1 compression

99-00 Honda CRV
148 HP, 136 ft/lbs TQ
9.6:1 compression

96-98 Honda SM-X
128 HP, 135 ft/lbs TQ
8.8:1 compression

99-00 Honda SM-X
138 HP, 137 ft/lbs TQ
9.6:1 compression


Edit: My d16y8 doesn't look too far off from the low compression b20b....im scared lol. I was promised that it wasn't the 8.8:1 compression engine, but everyone thinks it is. Im heavily invested into this swap ($2000 so far), and I hope its worth it.
 

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Quench due toundersidesd head? Ehh... Not benefical quench in the same way that you're thinking...

The torque alone makes a huge difference. My full weight Ex 4dr can out gun a B16A on the down low. But the redline is the biggest direct downsize (same ratio trans) plus the less peak hp...

Like Esoteric said, bump compression plus beffier cams and it will be well worth it. (I spent a lot for my B-swap also, but I got the P8R for my intended purpose)

Vtec heads easily make more power plus additional gain in compression...
 

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One thing I dont do is look at HP numbers.

HP sells cars, torque wins races.
I look at these builds with high WHP numbers and low torque numbers. Adding a vtec head lowers the torque curve most always everytime. Now alot of people use the close ratio trans of the B16 and alot swear by the GSR trans. Im using the longer LS trans and with the torque, My ride will get down and boogie.

I keep right up with most V6 cars (which are heavy anyways) but you still can have fun on the street.


I might have the same $$ invested as a vtec head, but I have more torque. One thing the P8R is lacking is decent rockers. The design is not ment to rev higher then 7K and can easily pop out if pushed too far. This is one drawback of using this head..

Im sure youve already looked at the honda P8R head write up, it has thatinfo you posted on the variants of the B20.


The only real way to see what compression you have is to look at the pistons. When I purchased my 3rd B20b, I didnt care what model it was. I took out the pistons, Swapped in the 84mm ITR reps ($200), deglszed the walls, added ARP rod bolts ($40) with new rods bearings ($60). For 300 bucks plus a simple deglaze will be the best power adder you can get. bumping up your power 30+%
Shave the head .010, 3 angle valves, new seals, and your looking at another 10% gain. Your typical intake,header exhaust on a stock B20 wont give you these gains. I think mine on the 1st engime was 143/134 at the wheels.

Now remember, these engines arent as plentiful as they used to be. Alot get pulled from junkyards, or may have had issues. If you know what to look for, you can spot if one has been overheated and had a new HG installed. But just do your best, and dont be quick to just slamdunk it in your ride. I know the swap cost you 2K, and your excited.. But if you plan a little better while the engine is out, you can have a nice little street engine. Its not difficult at all.

Basic tools, some sanding barrels, a little machine shop work and youll gain power and tq just by doing some basic cleaning up on the head, new pistons, B18B cams, and proper intake/exhaust.


Look at this write up: http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1676914


click my profile for pics of my current B20 build


 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks for all the help and reassurance guys. Im definitely going to build it up, but im completely broke at the moment. I have to recover from the expense of the swap first. Things are tight lol. Im glad that the low compression isn't a total waste though.

Esotericimage -- I will definitely hit you up later when I am ready to build the beast up a bit. I will probably have a ton of questions, so please bear with me :p. My power goals aren't too crazy, so I think I can get out of it decently (prise wise). Gotta find someone who can do the work though, as I do not have the skill to, and do not want to mess up my main car.
 
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